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Birding Atlantis

7/10/2022

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There’s an arc of low-lying land running along the Cadiz-Seville border and down towards Mesas de Asta that begs to be explored. These low-lying fields were once beneath the waves and what are now surrounding hills were once isolated islands and peninsulas. It was here that the semi-mythical city of Tartessus was located. The Tartessian civilisation owed much to Phoenician traders who, according to tradition, founded the city of Cadiz in 1100 BCE (making it the oldest continuously inhabited city in western Europe). They called the place Gadir taking the name from a Berber term for a wall or compound (and hence also the origin of the name for the Moroccan city of Agadir). It was silver that attracted the Phoenicians and reputedly made the Tartessians fabulously wealthy.  Although their influence once stretched west to what is now southern Portugal, east to Murcia and north to Extremadura, relatively little is known about them.  One of the most famous examples of Tartessian art is the fabulous Bronce Carriazo.  It is thought to represent a local Tartessian goddess of the marshes assimilated into the Phoenician cult of Astarte and that of the Egyptian goddess Hathor (polytheism is an equal opportunities form of religion).  Her tunic is adorned by water lilies and the birds depicted are surely Mallards suggesting an intimate familiarity with wetland wildlife (although I’ve no idea what outsized bottle openers she’s holding are meant to be!)  It certainly makes you wonder what the vast, shallow Tartessian Gulf (now occupied by the Coto Doñana) with its multiple inlets must have been like for bird watching 3,000 years ago. This mysterious past, the city’s location beyond the Pillars of Hercules and their city being surrounded by the sea, has inevitably caused many to link it with the myth of Atlantis.  This may well be entirely fanciful, but I quite like the idea that when I’m birding the area, I’m birding Atlantis!

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Bronce Carriazo - possibly representing a local Tartessian goddess of the marshes
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Much of this area was once below the sea and Mesas de Asta, not Jerez, was the main settlement.
At times after heavy rain, this area can appear to be straining to return to its former aquatic nature as extensive areas can be flooded. When this happens (sadly, an increasingly unusual phenomenon) it attracts hundreds of Flamingos, White Storks, three species of egret and a multitude of waders. When dry the patches of bare earth and poor vegetation look good for the ever-elusive Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (although I’ve only seen them here once). Within its orbit there are old settling ponds constructed for the sugar beet industry near Mesas de Asta, which have one of the largest colonies of both Gull-billed Tern and Slender-billed Gulls in Iberia (although the destruction of the Coto Donana on the far side of the Guadalquivir may now have changed things).  
So why isn’t it better known?  In one word “access” (compounded by the proximity of better known and reliably ornithologically productive areas).  The aforementioned settling ponds off the A 2000 at Mesas de Asta have always been ‘out-of-bounds’ despite, as I vaguely recall, talk by the former owners Ebro Foods that it would become a reserve.  Access to the nearer patch of wetland used to be permitted (or at least tolerated) but this is now disputed so both can now only be viewed distantly by pulling of the road onto a track (GPS 36.7927, -6.1636) running beside the main road. Despite this it can still be a good place to pause and catch up with Slender-billed Gull, Gull-billed and marsh terns, Collared Pratincole, Montagu’s Harrier, Red-rumped Swallow, etc. The fields to the south are a mix of rough grazing and arable but when flooded they too attract waders, terns, etc.  There may also be patches of bare ground – particularly after the floods have receded – that can harbour Stone-curlews.  It may also be worth exploring the Cañada Ancha which crosses the valley to the CA 3103.  (This track passes under the A 2000 at GPS 36.7804, -6.1672 and can be accessed via the track noted above running parallel to the main road or via the outskirts of Mesas de Asta (at GPS 36.7834, -6.1725).
A second area worth exploring are the Marismas de Casablanca. It's not an area I’ve often visited, despite my good intentions, but when I have done so it has proved to be worth the effort.  From Jerez there are two alternative routes to reach area; one slow and the other fast. The slower route along the CA 3103 is the more interesting as you can more easily stop to scan the undulating countryside. I've had Montagu’s Harrier here and the area is often traversed by Gull-billed Tern from the nearby colony at Mesas de Asta (or it was when I was last here).  
Unfortunately, the marsh is out of sight hidden in the rolling hills but as noted above, if you’re really keen the Cañada Ancha (GPS 36.7662, -6.1180) takes you across the valley towards the A 2000. This narrow thread of grass and scrub should have more birds than the surrounding farmland but you have to walk 1-2 km before you reach wide open areas prone to flooding.  Another potential plus of this route is that there remains an outside possibility that you might find Little Bustard. They were reported in this general area a decade ago, are still shown as present in the most recent Spanish atlas (based in surveys in 2014-2018) and I was told they were still around in the early 2020s.  
I’ve driven along the CA 0606 (essentially a continuation of the CA 3103 northwards) a couple of times but fully not explored the area. The track runs past the Cortijo de Capita through a rather dull agricultural landscape until after c2 km the track drops down towards a flatter area bisected by an agricultural canal (Caño de Capita). By c2 km along the 'road' it has degenerated into no more than a farm track so I’ve only once driven any further.  About 700m to the east, there’s a large triangle (c1.2 km tall x 600m at base) of rough grass dotted with small pools that attracts birds (I’ll return to this areas in the next paragraph). In theory at least, the CA 0606 then crosses Caño de Capita, loops east, past area noted above and on to Cortijo de Casblanca on the CA 3103. However, the track would be tough going even in a 4x4 so if you do explore this track then do so on foot (although remember I’m not 100% sure that access is permitted so ask permission first if possible). ​Alternatively, you can ignore the turning onto the CA 0606 and continue along the CA 3103.  I have seen Hen Harrier and Short-eared Owl along this stretch of road in winter. There's room to pull off the road near the cortijo from where you can try walking c2.5 km along the track to the area noted above (but try not to disturb any large flocks of birds.
PictureTwo Cranes (?) photo bombing the StreetView image at Campo de Tiro.
Before we leave the vicinity of Cortijo de Capita, it’s worth noting that according to Google Maps, a 4-5 km drive from the CA 0606 west towards Trebujena takes you to a small aerodrome, restaurant and shooting range (Campo de Tiro) surrounded by similarly interesting habitat. The reality is rather different as the suggested route across the campo follows very poor or even entirely imaginary tracks. In fact, to reach this area means driving back towards Jerez, then along the A 2000 a few km short of the A 471 and then taking a track signposted for Campo de Tiro, a journey of 35 km!   
This is not an area I’ve explored and, obviously, the apparent presence of a shooting range here demands great caution. However, the far end of the track (c3 km from the main road), the open rough grassland habitat (as viewed on Streetview) certainly looks interesting enough to warrant future investigation. One of the images on Streetview even seems to have caught what might be a couple of Cranes flying over!  It doesn't make much sense to take such a long diversion from the Casablanca area but it might be an interesting diversion if exploring Trebujena.  It's on my ‘must-do list. 

I must confess that as I’ve tended to visit the Marismas de Casablanca as an afterthought and when I’m short of time, I’ve usually arrived via the faster route along the NIV, pulled off onto the CA 3103 (GPS 36.8292, -6.0693) and taken the track towards the two prominent silos here.  The track behind these landmarks takes you to a bridge over the railway (GPS 36.8383, -6.0730) which is one of the few locations that gives you a commanding, if distant, view across the area. On my most recent visit (February 2023) I had c200 Common Crane, 500+ White Stork, hundreds of Cattle Egrets many of which were feeding/roosting in the wedge of habitat noted previously. The fields also had Lapwings, Golden Plover and many small passerines too distant to identify with confidence.  In the past it’s hosted c600 Common Cranes and the odd rarity including an adult male Pallid Harrier has been noted here.  When this area is flooded than it can be a mecca for huge numbers of Flamingos, egrets and waders.  Unfortunately, I’ve only witnessed this ornithological extravaganza from a passing train over a decade ago. On that occasion, I was also rewarded by a group of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse – perhaps refugees from the flood - lifting off near the tracks as we passed by!  Once again, further exploration either by car or foot should be productive.  The track (another section of the CA 0606!) to the west of the railway is very poor so best tackled on foot but the one on the far side of the railway should be easily drivable. This allows access to a second bridge c2.5 further on (GPS 36.8565, -6.0877) which should give better views of the area that held Common Cranes etc.  This area is one for the adventurous and after all where else can you claim to have gone birding around Atlantis? 
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Autumn Updates 2022 - IV All at sea!

6/10/2022

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When I first visited Andalucia in the 1970s the whale-watching industry didn't exist but when I returned in the early 2000s it had become a significant touristic attraction in Tarifa. I went on a couple of trips hoping to see a few seabirds as well as whales. As hoped, I managed to obtain some excellent views of Cory's Shearwater and somewhat fewer (and more distant) views of Balearic Shearwater (plus Great Skua & Audouin's Gull). However, piggybacking on jaunts to see cetaceans is no substitute for a focussed birding pelagic. Over a decade ago friends tried to organise a private trip in search of seabirds out of Tarifa but for various reasons it fell through. 
Happily, the ornithological tourism industry in Cadiz province is now so well developed and popular that pelagics are now part of the regular birding calendar.  As I recall, the first few birding pelagics were organised out of Tarifa but Chipiona quickly became the more popular option.  However, my first taste of pelagic birding here was out of Cadiz on 17th September this year.  This jaunt was organised by Manuel Morales (Birding Tarifa  www.birdingtarifa.com/en) but other birding guides (e.g. www.birdingthestrait.com) have also run trips to see seabirds.
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Puente de La Constitución de 1812
As the boat was due to leave Puerto America, Cadiz shortly after first light this meant an early start from Alcala de los Gazules for myself and my Kent birding friend Barry Wright who had joined me for a few days. The first treat was driving over the impressive Puente de la Constitucion de 1812 (see my prosaic photo from a few days earlier and Barry's superb shot as we crossed the bridge just before dawn).  This handsome bridge was named to commemorate and celebrate of Spain's first written constitution which was ratified in Cadiz in 1812. It established a constitutional monarchy and votes for male citizens and, despite being overthrown, was very influential serving as the model for constitutions in Portugal, Italy and several countries in Central and South America.
As well as ourselves, the skipper and Manuel, there were two local Spanish birders, an Australian, two Dutch birders (one of whom had exceptional eyesight which helped greatly later on) and ex-pat British birder, Ricky Owen, on the boat. Our first ornithological delight was a Roseate Tern on the harbour wall - a Spanish tick for me and my first Roseate Tern for decades.

As the boat headed out into the Golfo de Cádiz, we soon started to see Balearic Shearwaters (our final total was c40 birds) and European Storm-petrels (our total was also c40 birds). Despite the calm conditions, the latter were difficult to see as they skittered quickly past just above the water and, for once, I found myself regretting that I had changed from x8 binoculars to x10 as every lurch of the boat was magnified.  After a handful of stormies (a Spanish tick), another petrel hove into view which was clearly something different. There was some speculation that it was a Leach's as it lacked European Storm-petrel's pale bar on the underwing. I found this ID unconvincing but fortunately Barry had the presence of mind to get several photos (see below) of the bird which confirmed that it was a Wilson's Storm-petrel.  The clinching feature was that its toes clearly extended beyond the tail.  Another Spanish tick and my first for thirty-odd years.  Another Spanish tick and again my first for many years, was a far more co-operative Grey Phalarope (oddly enough, a few weeks after returning to the UK, I had a Grey Phalarope at a regular haunt (Stodmarsh) and what was almost certainly a second one at Reculver.   Cory's Shearwater, Arctic Skua and Bottle-nosed Dolphins also had walk-on parts in the drama.
If you plan to visit Cadiz province for the marvellous autumnal raptor passage, don't neglect to check online whether there are any pelagics scheduled at the time, you won't regret it. The only disappointment of the trip was that the petrels and shearwaters studiously ignored the 'chum' put out for them, so views were generally distant and brief.  
I got all of the species I realistically hoped to see netting no less than 4 of the 7 Spanish ticks I this September: Roseate Tern, European & Wilson's Storm-petrels and Grey Phalarope (the other ticks being Pectoral Sandpiper, Ortolan Bunting & Elegant Tern). 

​Mention of lists reminds me to mention that Barry got the four species he wanted to add to his impressive 7,700+ World list: Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Iberian Azure-winged Magpie, Iberian Green Woodpecker and Spanish Imperial Eagle.  ​
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Autumn Updates 2022 - V Cañada de Valcargado

5/10/2022

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PictureLittle Bustard at Valcargado in spring several years ago
It's something of a shock to realise that I first drove along the Cañada de Valcargado well over a decade ago.  On that occasion, I was looking for Little Bustards having already seen them elsewhere in the valley formed by the Arroyo del Yeso (a tributary of the Rio del Alamo).  Happily, I was successful, and I obtained good views of a calling male not far from the start of the track. As my focus was on finding steppe habitats that might hold bustards, I was a little disappointed to find that the rest of the track climbed up through unsuitable habitats for bustards. Hence, I was less interested in what else the area might offer than I should have been. So, despite returning many times since, I generally only drove one or two kilometres along this nine-kilometre track (a) to look for Little Bustards, Stone Curlew, Montagu's Harrier and Black-winged Kite.  Unfortunately, recent searches for Little Bustard here haven't been successful, perhaps indicative of their sharp decline in Spain despite their continuing presence elsewhere in the Campo de Medina.  This short-sighted approach made me under-appreciate the fact that the track pierced a wild hilly area with plenty of old olive groves, scrub and rough grazing.  I should have realised that the panoramic views particularly at the end of the route (as far as a non-4x4 vehicle's concerned) made this an ideal place to scan for passing raptors.  

So, when my friends Richard & Michelle Page-Jones told me that they were going to take me to a favourite site of theirs, Valcargado, this autumn I initially failed to recognise the name. Fortunately, new signs on the A 2225 now make the track hard to miss.  As we drove further along the track than I was used to doing, it dawned on me just how mistaken I'd been to overlook this excellent area for so long.  We had Bee-eaters, numerous hirundines, many small migrants and finches and larks galore but what struck me most of all was the opportunity that the wide vistas gave for scanning for raptors. A network of rough undrivable (unless in a 4x4) tracks radiating from the far end of this route (b) link up with routes back to Benalup or across to Alcala de los Gazules (just visible beyond the windfarms).  

PictureOrdóñezqui & Hemmingway
In the 1950s the Valcargado estate was owned by a famous bullfighter, Antonio Ordóñezqui, who was good friends with both Ernest Hemmingway (whom he called Father Ernesto) and Orson Welles (whose ashes were buried on Ordóñez's estate near Ronda). The presence of his grander-than-average finca and similar properties along the cañada doubtless explains why it's kept in such good repair for most of its length.  Apparently, the estate is still owned by his family so perhaps it's not a surprise that blood sports such as hunting continue to be an important activity on the estate. 

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The BoPs, especially the Honey Buzzards, were passing over very high so Chris did well to get identifiable photos
Accordingly, it's no surprise to see so many Red-legged Partridge (Sp: perdiz roja) along the track and in the fields. For Brits, it is perhaps surprising to find what the Spanish call Aguila perdicera (Partridge Eagle), better known to Anglophones as Bonelli's Eagle, is a frequent visitor here too.  Surprisingly, although not entirely blameless, Spanish hunters seem to be far more tolerant of birds of prey than many of their British equivalents. On half a dozen visits here this autumn I saw Bonelli's Eagle every time which is a better 'hit rate' than any other site for this species I know. Not only that, but on most visits, I saw multiple birds here culminating in a group of four birds (3 juveniles and a 2nd year) and a fifth juvenile on the way out.  It is interesting that all were sub-adult birds suggesting that this is an important area for birds dispersing from more mountainous breeding sites. The juvenile plumage of Bonelli's Eagle is superficially similar to that of dark morph adult Booted Eagles. Although Bonelli's are larger than Booted (L -55-65cm vs 45-51cm; W/s 143-165 cm vs 110-135 cm; Wt 1600-2500g vs 840-1250g) juveniles can be confused with the rufous form of the smaller species although, with experience, the Bonelli's different wing shape (pinched base broader middle & tapering tip) and a proportionately longer tail  should distinguish them.  To my eye the Booted is buzzard-like whilst the Bonelli's has a whiff of an Aquila eagle about it. 

Other raptors included the inevitable Griffon Vultures, one or two Egyptian Vultures, Booted & Short-toed Eagles, Osprey, Common & Honey Buzzards, Marsh Harrier, Common & Lesser Kestrels, Sparrowhawk and a single Goshawk.  It was also pleasing to confirm that at least some of the larks along the track are Thekla's although, since I've also seen Crested Lark here, every bird needs to be carefully checked. As with almost anywhere in this part of Spain on a decent day during late August and September, the scrub contains more Redstarts, Pied & Spotted Flycatchers than you could hope to see for a whole autumn in my home county of Kent.  
Along with Red-legged Partridge, Rabbits are also common here so it's equally unsurprising that I had Spanish Imperial Eagles here three times - two different adults and a juvenile. The species is doing well locally as I again had one over my terrace in Alcala (as I did Bonelli's Eagle) but one of the highlights of my entire sojourn here this autumn was seeing four SIEs (an adult and three juveniles) soaring together near Castillo de Torrestrella (d). (Note that this small group was also reported near the Embalse de Barbate). Access along this road once stretched for another kilometre to a quarry just beyond the castle (and is still shown as doing so on Google Streetview) but further progress is now blocked by a gate (possibly due to the Ecologistas en Acción de Jerez denouncing the illegal rubbish tip here). This is a pity as the views further along the track were still better. It's a good track for Calandra Lark in spring (although none were present in September) and passing raptors are always a possibility. Many people staying in Tarifa visit La Janda to find both "wintering" Bonelli's Eagle and SIEs but they probably have a better chance of both exploring this fabulous area. 
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Access to the area from Ermita-Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Santos (c) is problematical as the track here has signs stating it's a 'camino particular' and that it's 'prohibido el paso'. These signs have always put me off exploring this track, particularly as there are other viewpoints in the area that are accessible but my friend LuisMi, who used to work in this area, had no such inhibitions when he took me birding here insisting that, signs or no signs, it was a cañada and therefore a public right of way. Certainly, none of the farm workers or hunters we saw here batted an eyelid at a couple of birders scanning the skies but visitors using this track do so at their own peril. That said, I suspect walking or cycling this route is unlikely to cause much trouble and you only have to walk a few hundred metres beyond the sign to reach a point with a good vista from which to look for raptors. Exploring some of these tracks when I finally get around to buying a bicycle in Spain will be a priority!  ​
PictureChris Holt and I at Cortijo los Monteros (Benalup)
It may be heretical to some but in my view travelling around Andalucia shouldn't be just about birding or even wildlife. Pit stops at ventas and wayside restaurants need not be made every day, but they make a pleasant diversion when the sun is high in the sky and the temperatures soar. 

I'd particularly recommend trying a menu del dia (which provide three courses & a drink for as little as €8.50 although €12+ increasingly seems to be the norm).at roadside ventas (look for ones off the tourist routes with crowded car parks! Even if you go to a more upmarket restaurant like Cortijo los Monteros (convenient for Valcargado as it's near Benalup) eating out at lunchtime is surprisingly good value for money. 

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Autumn Updates 2022 - VI - Laguna de Torrox - nature in the city

29/9/2022

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Laguna de Torrox (or Laguna de Torro) was once a celebrated wetland just south of Jerez de la Frontera well known to pioneer British hunter/naturalists Able Chapman and Walter J Buck (see http://www.entornoajerez.com/2012/09/la-laguna-de-torrox-cronica-de-una_28.htm​l). Chapman and Buck who introduced a generation of Victorians and Edwardians to the fauna of Andalucia through their two best-selling books Wild Spain (1893) and Unexplored Spain (1910). These books later inspired Guy Mountfort et al to visit Andalucia in the 1950s and their expeditions and Mountfort's book "Portrait of a Wilderness: The story of the Coto Doñana Expeditions" (1958) were instrumental in the creation of the Coto Donana reserve. 
In '"Unexplored Spain" Chapman and Buck wrote about what must surely be Laguna de Torrox as follows: "Even Jerez with its 60,000 inhabitants boasts no suburban zone. Within half an hour's walk one may witness scenes in wild bird-life for the like of which home-staying naturalists sigh in vain. We are at our "home- marsh," a mile or two away : it is mid-February. Within fifteen yards a dozen stilts stalk in the shallows; hard by is a group of godwits, some probing the ooze, the rest preening in eccentric outstretched poses. Beyond, the drier shore is adorned by snow- white egrets [Ardea hubulcus), some perched on our cattle, relieving their tick-tormented hides. Thus, within less than fifty yards, we have in view three of the rarest and most exquisite of British birds. And the list can be prolonged. A marsh-harrier in menacing flight, his broad wings brushing the bulrushes, sweeps across the bog, startling a mallard and snipes ; there are storks and whimbrels in sight (the latter possibly slender-billed curlew), and a pack of lesser bustard crouch within 500 yards in the palmettos. From a marsh-drain springs a green sandpiper; and as we take our homeward way, serenaded by bull-frogs and mole-crickets, there resounds over- head the clarion-note of cranes cleaving their way due north. (see-   archive.org/details/unexploredspain00chaprich/page/n9/mode/2up). 

Mention of palmettos reminds me that it was reputed to be one of the last areas the Andalucian Hemipode could be found near Jerez. When Roger Tory Peterson joined Mountfort et al on one of his expeditions to paint and familiarise himself with European birds for his forthcoming field guide this was a species he was keen to see.  He succeeded in doing so but only because a barber in Jerez had one in a cage, perhaps it was caught here.  

Inevitably, the growth of Jerez's population since then to just over 213,000 has impinged on this small wilderness to such an extent that it is now little more than an ornamental pond in an an urban park at the edge of the city. In fact, it's questionable whether it should really bear the name of its antecedent being almost entirely the artificial creation of developers. Although larger than its namesake, embanked and constrained it must bear little resemblance to the site Chapman and Buck knew. The old lagoon survived into the 1960s but was neglected and abused. Even its replacement has suffered neglect (see http://www.entornoajerez.com/2012/09/la-laguna-de-torrox-cronica-de-una_28.htm​l). 
 So, this is probably not a site a keen visiting birder will detour to on a birding jaunt to the area, but for those staying in Jerez with a family or without any means of transport, it does allow the opportunity to see some birds that might otherwise be missed. Besides, as any seasoned birder knows good birds can turn up in unexpected places and with drought conditions any sheet of water will draw birds and two small islands on the laguna offer a safe roosting place for herons, cormorants and ducks. 

​It's c2.5 km from the city centre so should take c30 mins to walk there. Happily, however, the No13 bus runs to the laguna and both the No 8 & 9 stop in Ave. Puerta del Sol from where it's a five-minute walk (along Calle Austria & Ave. de Italia). Even on my very brief visit I had Little Egret, Night Heron, Spoonbill, Black-tailed Godwit, Green Sandpiper, Red-rumped Swallow, Cetti's Warbler, Common Redstart, Pied and Spotted Flycatchers. A check on e-Bird shows that 110 species have been recorded here including Purple Swamphen, Little Bittern, Bluethroat and even Red-knobbed Coot (see - https://ebird.org/hotspot/L12777970)  The north-western arm of the laguna seemed to offer most promise with reeds and exposed mud offering cover and a source of food for passing birds. 
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Birdwatching Calendar of the Province of Cadiz - review

19/8/2022

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The Cadiz Turismo has a history of producing useful ornithological guides to the region and its latest offering, “Birdwatching Calendar of the Province of Cadiz”, is arguably the best yet even though it seems to be more aimed at general tourists than experienced birders familiar with the area. This is entirely understandable given the likely ‘target readership’ for a publication sponsored by a tourist board.  The author, Manuel Morales, is one of the region’s premier bird guides (see http://www.birdingtarifa.com/en/about-us) which is reflected in the knowledgeable content.   
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This guide was originally published in Spanish (see https://issuu.com/cadizturismo/docs/calendario_de_ornitolog_a_-_provincia_de_c_diz - worth a look even if you don’t read Spanish to access the QR codes).  This is a slightly shorter English version of the guide (87 pp vs 94 pp) and was presented at the inaugural ‘Global Bird Fair’ in Rutland in July 2022.  The guide uses a ‘landscape’ format which I confess I often find somewhat irritating (cf the Sound Approach books) but which, in this instance, works well. After a brief ‘How to use this guide’ introduction, there are three pages devoted to the author’s “Top Ten” iconic species representative of the region’s habitats - Spanish Imperial Eagle, Bald Ibis, Bonelli’s Eagle, Little Swift, Marbled Duck, Red-knobbed Coot, Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin, Slender-billed Gull,  Rüppell’s Vulture and Cory’s Shearwater.  Although one can quibble about the inclusion of an introduced species and a relatively rare visitor (the ibis & the vulture) over that of, say, White-headed Duck and Lesser Short-toed Lark, most birders would pick a very similar selection of special birds.  Presumably, the absence of Iberian endemic Azure-winged Magpie reflects the species scarcity at its one site in the province although this doesn’t apply to the near-endemic Iberian Grey Shrike.   
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The “top ten” is followed by a dozen pages summarising the habitats and birdlife of each region. Aesthetically, this is beautifully presented with an attractive layout and some excellent bird photos. Personally, I’d have preferred a more detailed text at the expense of aesthetics (particularly where the Bay of Cadiz is concerned since the text gives no idea of the impressive number of birds using this area). However, I suspect that the target readership will be happy with the balance between the content and the guide’s visual attractiveness.
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The ’heart’ of the book is the 36 pages devoted to the birds to be seen and the sites to visit in each of six ‘natural regions’ (see map) every month of the year.  Calling them ‘natural regions’ seems to me to be something of a misnomer as the boundaries are based on those of the area’s municipalities rather than a natural subdivision. However, in practice, this isn’t a problem (although it should be noted that “La Janda” covers a much larger area than simply the well-known birding location). The three-page overview for each month gives a representative example of the birds  expected in each region at that time and is linked to a fourth page that suggests sites to visit. For example, in February the focus is on Spoonbills in the Bay of Cadiz (Site - La Caseria  Beach, San Fernando) , Great-spotted Cuckoos near La Janda (Site - Mesa de la Mediana, Benalup), Ring Ousels, Alpine Accentors and Redwing in the Cadiz Mountains (Site - Cerro Coros, Grazalema), Tree Sparrow on the Northwest Coast (Site - La Algaida Pine Forest, near Sanlucar ), White Storks in the Jerez countryside  (Site - El Portal near Jerez) and “aguilas del viento” (literally “wind eagles” as migrating raptors are called locally) in the Campo de Gibraltar (Site - Punta Comorro).  The descriptive notes for each region and the relevant site are in colour co-ordinated boxes (although, oddly, not presented in the same sequence).     
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The monthly overview for each region is somewhat brief varying in length between c30 – c80 words although this is supplemented by a short description (c25 – c30 words) about each site.  This can only give the briefest of reviews of the birding possibilities in the area in each month but collectively they still convey a good idea of the province’s birding potential. This section is also beautifully illustrated by a collection of excellent photographs. This is aesthetically very pleasing, but I suspect I’m not alone (again) in favouring smaller/fewer photos but more text. The page on the specific sites includes QR codes for each one.  Before accessing them, I had hoped this would allow access to a more detailed text about the area and its birdlife (to flog a dead horse still further).   However, they are restricted to showing each route on a map preferably via the ad-free Mapas de España app (available via Google Play.  This is an excellent app well worth downloading. As many (but not all sites) are featured on eBird it would have been helpful to add a link to that excellent resource where available (although keener birders will already be aware of this excellent resource).
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Although there are 36 texts on the suggested sites there is, understandably, some duplication in the sites covered.  Laguna de Medina is mentioned twice as a site in the Jerez countryside section, but the remaining ten sites are all little known. Somewhat surprisingly, to me at least, several sites further east go unmentioned in favour, it seems, of four urban sites (perhaps reflecting that many tourists will be based in Jerez itself). The section on the Cadiz mountains includes two visits to Puerto de las Palomas and one to nearby Cerro Coros but not, surprisingly, to nearby Grazalema (which is an excellent area for Black Wheatear). Counter intuitively, given the name of this area it includes a visit to two wetlands,  Laguna de Espera and Bornos reservoir.  Not surprisingly, no less than eight of the sites noted under “La Janda” are indeed part of or adjacent to that iconic birding destination. The remaining four include some excellent places to visit: Barca de Vejer (for Bald Ibis), Barbate marshes (for waders), Rio Salado at Conil (again for waders) and, to my delight, Alcala de los Gazules (for the Lesser Kestrel colony). The suggestions for the North-west coast include five visits to areas close to La Algaida (but not surprisingly the well-known Bonanza Salinas) plus several others around Chipiona and Trebujena. The most coherent region in terms of habitat and birdlife is, unsurprisingly, the Bay of Cadiz which offers a good number of sites (although not the newly opened Marismas de Cetina, potentially the best site for birding in the area).  Finally, and understandably, the section on the Campo de Gibraltar concentrates on coastal areas with no less than ten of the suggested localities being on the coast (from Bolonia in the west to Princess Sofia Park, La Linea in the west).  The two exceptions are San Isidro Church (Los Barrios) and El Pajarraco Gorge (Pinar del Rey) which means some good sites in Jimena de la Frontera and Castellar de la Frontera are omitted.  
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The remaining dozen pages of the book consist of a checklist of 100 species (cross-referenced to each area), useful lists of tourist offices information points/visitor centres, bird guides & relevant NGOs and, finally, two maps (showing the location of Natural Parks and other nature reserves).
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This is a very attractive guide that all keen birders will benefit from reading even if it is probably aimed at the more general reader.  Of course, it’s no substitute for Ernest Garcia’s “Where to Watch Birds in Southern & Western Spain” but it’s not meant to be and taken on its own terms it does a first-rate job of promoting the province as a birding destination throughout the year, not just at peak migration times.  It’s certainly very welcome that the Cadiz tourism authorities take birdwatching so seriously and have knowledgeable advocates like Manuel Morales (amongst others) to plead the cause. I pride myself on knowing the province better than most visitors but there were still several sites I didn’t know.  Keen birders may well hope that the author writes a more detailed book based on this novel idea but in the meantime, it’s well worth picking up this guide (presumably available at any Turismo in Cadiz and hopefully, at some, point available on ISSUU).


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El Aguila Project, La Janda - a cause for optimism & hope

1/8/2022

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PictureLooking across to the site of Laguna del Torero from near Vejer
It was reading Guy Mountfort’s iconic book “Portrait of a Wilderness” (1958) in the late 1960s that inspired me and a group of friends to first go birding in Spain in 1970.  There were no guides back then, no internet and little information about where to see birds beyond the maps in Peterson’s field guide. As a result, the closest thing we had to a site guide in southern Spain was Mountfort’s book but, as I recall, that only mentioned three sites, the Coto itself, Bonanza saltpans and La Janda. ​

Surprisingly we got permission to visit the Coto, but found access to Bonanza saltpans denied by a locked gate and so went in search of the Laguna de la Janda.  We knew where to go as it was marked on the cheap roadmaps we’d picked up at petrol stations en route.  So it was with some excitement that we headed along the road from Vejer towards Tarifa.  When no laguna appeared, we just assumed that, such was the scale of the map, we'd somehow missed it or, perhaps our map reading skills weren’t as good as we thought.  In reality, our error was not one of map reading, but of timing as the last remnants of the laguna had disappeared in 1967.  I still rather resent the fact that after decades of trying the drain the place, they finally managed it just before I got there! Had we been better informed we’d have still turned off the road and explored the site as even the ghost of the old laguna is good for birds.
PictureHistoric map of La Janda
The historic maps on the excellent Asociación Amigos de la Laguna de La Janda blog (http://blog.lagunalajanda.org/cartografia/) show that the exact shape and extent of Laguna de la Janda was never fixed but shifted and changed according to the amount of rainfall and by season. These changes could be extensive as the laguna was shallow being no deeper than 3m so rapidly changed shape as the water evaporated or the laguna was fed by rainfall.  At its greatest extent Laguna de la Janda may have had a surface of 7,000 hectares but could shrink to around 4,000 hectares.  Hence on maps it sometimes it appears as a thin sausage-shape, a lozenge or, at its greatest extent in wet years, a huge boomerang  stretching north-east to include Laguna de Espartinas. In fact, in some ways the name Laguna de la Janda is a misnomer as Lagunas de la Janda (as it is sometimes styled) would be more apt since in drier times it became a string of smaller lagunas –  Aguila, Rehuelga, Espartinas, Jandilla, Tapatana y la Haba, Tapantanilla and Cabrahigos. I've not found the latter on any map so I've assumed (quite possibly incorrectly) on my map that it's synonymous with Laguna del Hiero which I have found.  Laguna de Alcala and Laguna del Torero usually (if not always) seem to have been comparatively isolated outliers . Some of these satellite lagunas were close in size to Laguna de Medina so must have been impressive sites for wildlife in their own right. Today the Rio Barbate (with  a minor road beside it) still squeezes between two low hills just east of Vejer before opening out at the site of Laguna del Torero.  Occasionally heavy rains mean that the old laguna tries to reassert itself and by squinting your eyes you can almost imagine it's still there. I've seen various herons, White and Black Stork and Cranes there in the past but birds like  Red-knobbed Coot are long gone (although the odd one has turned up on La Janda in wet years).   ​

Ownership of La Janda has been a matter of dispute for decades with the Asociación Amigos de la Laguna de La Janda (https://www.lagunalajanda.org/) playing a significant role in the fight to demonstrate that it remains public, not private, land.  A definitive legal opinion was sought and eventually came down in favour of recognising public ownership.  However, in Andalucia (as elsewhere) de jure facts seem slow to trump the de facto occupation of the land by powerful agricultural interests. 
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The lagunas of La Janda
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However, ambitious new plans give hope that a small part of this laguna may be restored. Plans to restore – or in modern parlance rewild – La Janda aren’t new. At the turn of the century modest proposals were made to create small wetland (a) just north of the turning to Zahara. Nothing came of the proposal partly, I assume, due to the then unclarified legal position but also, as I recall, because it was predicated on mitigation funds being available from upgrading the N 340.  For good or ill, converting the road to Tarifa into a dual carriageway has got no further south than Vejer. Not all improvements to the local environment have been unsuccessful as the work at El Cañillo in the Marismas de Barbate shows (b).  Unfortunately, ambitious plans to convert the pastures in the valley between Barbate and Vejer into a wetland reserve with hides and shallow lagunas (c) appear to have stalled despite the involvement of Barbate council and optimistic comments about funding being available (see https://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/cadiz-birding-blog-page/a-new-wetland-proposed-near-vejerbarbate). Talking to local environmentalists it seems that this project is unlikely to go ahead in the near future, if at all. This is a pity as, on paper at least, the proposals looked excellent and would, in conjunction with the next project make the area even more of a birding hotspot.  ​

PictureGlobal Brid Fair 2022
At the Global Bird Fair in July 2022 a new and very exciting plans were unveiled to improve the habitat in a relatively small but significant part of the old Laguna de La Janda. This time, however, there seems grounds for quiet optimism.  First, the legal position now seems more clear cut than it was twenty-five years ago. Second, the plans are a result of collaboration with half-a-dozen or so local organisations and have the support of still more national and international organisation (inc. the IUCN, WWF & SEO). Third is the eventual success of the campaign to open a previously closed pedestrian/cycle route on La Janda along the Canal de Churriana and on to El Canal.  Perhaps most importantly, the fourth reason is that publicity and funding from the Global Bird Fair should ensure the plans have a high profile and sufficient financial backing.   ​

The ambition, scope and detail presented at the bird fair were impressive.  I’ve drawn a map of my own to put the plan into context within the area involved (highlighted in green on the main map) and inserted a map showing Stodmarsh NNR to give some idea of context for British birders (or at least those in SE England) who don’t know the place.  The similarities don’t stop with a broadly comparable size but also the mix of farmland and wetland.
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Comparison of proposals with Stodmarsh Kent (my local reserve)
The attractive artist’s impression of the site and maps give a good idea of what is intended.  If additional land is purchased, then the area involved will be a shade over 400 ha of which almost 100 ha will be farmed (irrigated & unirrigated), 100 ha converted into a wetland (including small lagunas and reedbeds), 62 ha restored grasslands, 7 ha of woodlands (some of which will screen the site from the road) and 2 ha improved flooding. The plan also includes better access, hides, a visitors’ centre and its use as an educational resource.  One of the aspects of the plan which makes it, in my view, a more viable prospect is that the area devoted to ‘ecological farming’ will not only provide a model for others to follow but also provide funds to run the reserve.  In my experience too many projects of this nature in Spain founder because there isn’t a regular source of funding. The area may be minuscule compared to what has been lost but it's a start. ​
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Overview of the planned changes
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PictureThe logo of the Asociación Amigos de la Laguna de La Janda
When, not if, this scheme goes ahead it will owe much to the tireless work over decades by the Asociación Amigos de la Laguna de La Janda and many other Spanish enthusiasts.  Without their ambition and determination none of this could have happened.  Despite setbacks and disappointments, they have continued to fight not only for what was and is their patrimony but also for hispanophile birders everywhere. I've only given a thumbnail sketch of the plans here so check out their website Laguna de La Janda (lagunalajanda.org) for more details and how you can support their work.  For an excellent explanation (despite the indifferent quality of the video  watch the talk given by Javier Elorriaga and Manuel Morales at the Global Bird Fair at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=480j8sVUgIc&t=1s

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Humedal Cerro de las Cigueñas - another 'armchair find'!

13/6/2022

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When updating my notes recently I browsed an online booklet that I'd found earlier this year called a "Guide to the biodiversity of the Guadalquivir Estuary" (see  here). However, when I did so I was surprised to discover that a site shown on a map in the guide wasn't, as I'd casually assumed, Laguna la Mejorada but one entirely new to me.  It was in fact, the  Humedal Cerro de las Cigueñas (Wetland of the Hill of the Storks). As far as I'm aware, unlike many collections of lagunas, the three wetlands here don't have a collective name but calling them the "Humedals de Los Palacios y Villafranca" seems apt so that's the name I've used for all three in my guide. None of these sites are as productive as Brazo del Este but if you've limited time they're all a far shorter detour off the  route between Seville and the Straits.  Depending on whether you're driving north or south*, it's either a 13 km or 17 km drive to Brazo de Este whereas to reach this site it's only a 5 km drive, El Pantano can be reached in 3 km and Laguna la Mejorada is virtually right next to Exit 565 off the NIV (c600m to be precise). Being much smaller, these sites can also be covered more quickly of time is of the essence.
*This difference is largely due to the fact that several exits off the NIV as it bypasses Los Palacios y Villafranca can only be taken when travelling from the north so if you want to take the SE 9020 to Brazo de Este when arriving from the south you either have to overshoot and reverse direction at Exit 565 or cut through the town (both take roughly the same amount of time but the latter is less of a hassle). 
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As can be seen from the above Humedal Cerro de las Cigueñas is tucked away a few km north-west of Los Palacios y Villafranca. This former landfill has been taken over (as has El Pantano) by the local authority and made into a small reserve. Peering at GoogleEarth it appears that the site consists of two small pools surrounded by reeds/sedges and rough grazing. Checking on eBird (see     https://ebird.org/hotspot/L7331439) - I note that 131 species have been reported from here which is very creditable since only 56 checklists have been submitted (including several by a local professional tour guide which indicates the site's potential). 

Not surprisingly, this site attracts many of the same species of the other two locations (albeit in smaller numbers). These species include Purple Swamphen, various herons, waders, Savi's Warbler, various exotics and the occasional small crake but for a full list again check eBird. The small size of this wetland should make it relatively easy to view aided by the fact that it's bounded by a road (a) to the west, a track to the east (b) and the levee along the Encauzamiento del Cano del la Vera to the south (c). It seems from Google Streetview that the fields just to the east of the track may sometimes be flooded to form a shallow body of water (d) which should be worth a look when present. Photos online (and a signpost to this site) show that there's even a small hide or Observatorio here (e) although it looks like it's in a poor state of repair.  Further along the road there’s a second much smaller marsh (f) and judging from various sources more flooded fields.   Some photos show this to be a pleasant bird-friendly pool but on Google StreetView it looks more like an unofficial landfill/dumping site but it may be worth a look or best ignored (although birds don't necessarily share our aesthetic prejudices).    Like the Humedal El Pantano (and perhaps more so), Humedal Cerro de las Cigueñas is liable to dry out in the summer so a visit outside that period is likely to show this site at its best.

As I've not managed to visit this site all the photos below have been culled from Google StreetView or the odd photo available online (I trust that neither Google nor any of the photographers object to my using their images!).  Hopefully, they give some idea of what the site is like. 
Note that older sources suggest Rufous Bushchat were found in the area just west of the NIV here where low-intensity smallholdings create a favourable habitat for them so it may be worth exploring the tracks off the route to Humedal Cerro de las Cigueñas (and nearby) for this elusive and declining bird. 

As I needed to redraft my maps of this area to cover this site, I have also added details, both in my notes and on the map, of an area near Los Palacios y Villafranca that eBird shows still has Rufous Bushchats (in 2022 at least). Take the A 362 towards Utrera for c5 km from the AP4/E5 until you reach a small industrial estate (Poligono Algusa) on the left.  Turn left (take care!) to take the track that runs along the eastern edge of the poligono (signposted Hac. La Indiana).  Explore the tracks 1-2 km along this track (g). Looking at GoogleEarth, it appears that this is another area with low-intensity farming on small holdings which the Rufous Bushchat favours. (NB - as this is a rare and declining species playback should not be used to attract the species).  ​
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May 2022 Update VI  - Bustards & Breakfasts

2/6/2022

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Bustards
Not having been able to explore the area for in spring for several years when I returned to Alcala de los Gazules I set myself various ornithological targets. One major objective was to check on Little Bustard population near Benalup.  This species has undergone a catastrophic decline in recent years with numbers in its 'heartlands' tumbling rapidly.  According to the most recent national atlas the number of breeding males fell by almost half between 2005 and 2011. The position seems particularly critical in Castile-Leon (esp. in Zamora) and I've found them much harder to find around Osuna (Seville) in recent years. I've heard nothing to suppose the decline has halted. Yet in Cadiz province the number of surveyed squares that had lost the species as a breeding bird (4) is counterbalanced by squares where they seem to have been gained (5 - excluding a square the straddles the border) and in over twice that number they have persisted since earlier atlases. 
​However, I suspect the densities in some of these areas must be low. I've looked for them around Jerez and Conil without success (see my map adapted from the most recent Spanish Atlas - see
 
https://atlasaves.seo.org/ave/sison-comun/).    ​

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Although I first saw Little Bustard a little closer to Benalup, for some years the area around Los Badelejos has been my go-to site for them for the past decade. More specifically, I found the slope above a junction of several tracks (a on my map) very reliable for them and often found birds calling as I got out of my car. However, in early March and mid-April this year I failed to find them here despite several visits.  This made me even more concerned about their future here but I returned later in April to explore further along the valley. Although they were still absent at (a), two farmworkers (to whom I played the call and showed illustrations of the species) were able to confirm that the sisons were still present in the valley. Ten minutes later, I was scanning the slope at (b) when a Little Bustard started to call and after carefully checking the hillside I spotted a single male. 

The arrival of my friend Chris Cox meant that on 02/05 I had another look at this site.  Once again I found no birds at (a) and disappointingly the bird at (b) was silent.  Determined to find the birds, Chris and I walked along the Corredor Verde dos Bahias for c1 km beyond the track to the finca (c) but to no avail. As we turned back towards the car I spotted two 'Mallards' out of the corner of my eye but as I raised my binoculars to check I realised that they were actually a pair of Little Bustards!  As the male chased the female over our heads and away towards Benalup, a third bird, a male, rose up from the fields and joined the chase flicking his head up as he did so.  Result!   As we turned back towards the car I spotted a further two male bustards flying over the field at (b). Five birds is the most I've ever seen at this site so perhaps a little cautious optimism about their future here is warranted.    

PictureLittle Bustard habitat at (b)
Click here to edit.

It wasn't all good news as, despite several visits to my alternative site (d) along the Caňada del Valcargo (signposted Valcargado), I failed to find Little Bustard there (although that doesn't mean that they're not present as I've found them elusive here before .  
PictureStart of the Caňada del Valcargo from the A2225
 

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Little Bustard habitat at (d)
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Breakfasts
I confess that when out in Spain I often skip breakfast in my keenness to get out birding asap. Then, if the birding's good, I tend to forget about lunch too until it's too late to bother.  However, when I'm out early in the morning and the weather takes a change for the worse or it's too misty to see the birds, I am often tempted by having the 'standard' Spanish breakfast - a tostada.  I've done so several times at Venta La Casilla as it's convenient for the track opposite which leads to an area that sometimes has Little Bustard. It's very much a working man's venta and if you order a tostada you get the usual round of toast with small foil containers of pate, olive oil or a small dish of 'tomate'  (mashed tomato with oil & garlic). 

However, in April when I found the valley at Los Badalejos swathed in mist and decided to have an atypical breakfast stop I opted to go upmarket and try the Cortijo de los Monteros. Unusually, I'd eaten there at lunchtime several times and always found the food excellent but didn't really expect anything other than the usual fare for my breakfast. I was so wrong!   


The first clue that I was in for something different was when the waiter appeared with a large tray rather than a small plate.  The waiter proudly told me that the bread had been baked that morning by his uncle and that he'd come out with a second slice of toast later so that it too was warm when I ate it.  He then loaded my table with a plate on which there were two pates and a dollop of
manteca colorá (pork dripping flavoured with paprika), two scoops of more dripping of some sort (both laden with meat), a dish of Spanish stew (chorizo, black pudding, etc) and a dish of calves' liver. It would have been more than enough for two and I struggled to eat less than half (declining the second slice of toast). I expected a hefty bill but I was charged only about a € more than the usual price of €2.50 - €3.00 and rather less than you'd pay in touristy areas (plus  €1.20 for coffee).  So if you try for Little Bustards early one morning and then feel peckish you know where to go (unless you're a vegetarian who, presumably, starve at breakfast in Spain!) 

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May 2022 Update V - Egrets I've had a few ...

31/5/2022

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On my short visit to the province in March I was a little concerned that there was no sign of egrets, herons or Glossy Ibis at the usual nesting site on La Janda.  Although Cattle Egrets, the dominant species here, only start to lay eggs in late April/early May, there's usually some activity here by March.  My concern turned to alarm when I returned in late April to find that the huge heronry was still bereft of birds. This colony has been the highlight of any spring/early summer jaunt to La Janda for years.  I'm sure that better informed people than me will know why it has been deserted but I suspect that its failure is likely to be connected with the exceptionally dry winter.   
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However, I doubt that the absence of the egrets here means they're not breeding at all. Although egret colonies seem to persist in the same place over many years, like gulls and terns, birds may shift elsewhere if things aren't quite right.  This appears to have happened to the egret colony that once nested in the reedbed near the Bald Ibis colony below Vejer de la Frontera and the unique cliff-nesting egret colony which the ibis were expected to join near Barbate. 
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There do seem to be some new, albeit much smaller, colonies of Cattle Egret in the province.  For example, there now seems to be one in the trees along the Rio Barbate below my house in Alcala de los Gazules.  Unfortunately, its on private land so I was unable to approach closely enough to prove it but from my terrace I could see that, unusually, birds were present in the trees pretty much all day.   

​A second colony has also been established at Bonanza Pools (aka Lagunas de Camino Colorado) although, to be honest, I can't be 100% certain that this colony hasn't been present for rather longer.  

A combination of my enforced absence from Spain and plain idleness means that I've not actually looked at the third laguna here (iii on the map) for several years.  The fact is that my main target here, White-headed Duck, is very easy to see on lagunas (i) and (ii) as are other attractions like Purple Swamphen and, more infrequently, birds like Little Bittern and Marbled Duck.  Hence I've rarely bothered to check the third laguna and only did so in April because my keen young correspondent, Bruno Asencio Sevillano, had tipped me off about it.  The Camino Truncosa  allows good views of the colony which, as expected, consists largely of Cattle Egret but also a sprinkling of Squacco and Night Herons, Little Egret and Glossy Ibis. My total of 31 White-headed Duck which was far better than my combined tally at better known sites such as Laguna de Tarelo  and Laguna de Medina which confirms the importance of this once neglected site.  I failed to find the Red-knobbed Coot here but having seen one elsewhere didn't try too hard.  It was good to see the water level so high here too after the low levels I found in March (see photos)
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May 2022 Update IV - Walking routes in the Alcornocales

31/5/2022

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Valdeinfierno 
In the past the Valdeinfierno sendero (just off the A381 via the service road) has been one of the most convenient sites in the area to look for Iberian Chiffchaff.  Here you had two options; park at the start of the track or drive c2km along a generally good track took you to a second small car park from which there was a boardwalk into a small canuto (a narrow, wooded and steep sided valley-within-a-valley). The boardwalk was designed to be wheelchair friendly and the signage even had descriptions in braille. Although you could hear Iberian Chiffchaff (and Bonelli's Warbler) en route, they particularly like the copse-like vegetation along the stream so were pretty much unmissable here in spring and early summer. Unfortunately, the track is now gated (see photo) so driving further into the valley is no longer an option. Pedestrian access seems to be permitted, however, but it's now a 2 km walk along the track to reach the prime area for Iberian Chiffchaffs.  However, unless access has changed, you should still be able to drop down into the valley bottom after c800m by using a gated footpath on your right and follow the stream up to the boardwalk. 
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Picacho-Peguera Walk 
​This is another good walk off the service road into the woodland.  In the past, there was room for only a couple of cars to park off the road here and many people illicitly parked beyond the gate.  However large stones now prevent this and, besides, there's now a good sized car park across the road.  The sign on the gate warning you to be beware of fighting bulls has now gone being replaced by injunctions not to collect pine cones (GoogleTranslate insisted on "pineapples"!) or drive along the road.  This site also has Bonelli's Warbler but rather fewer Iberian Chiffchaff. 
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Area Recreativa Montera del Torero
On the rare occasions in the past when I've stopped here (I prefer the Valdeinfierno nearby), this site has been awash with noisy picnickers so I've avoided it.  However, it's not always so and probably pays further investigation. 
PictureA quiet day at the Area Recreativa
Click here to edit.

Molinos Valley, Alcala de los Gazules
I need little excuse to post a few photos from one of my favourite walks.  This spring the walk was a particularly pleasant one and the 'hidden' pool above the last mill hadn't dried out. The downside, though, was that the stream across the footpath was in full spate and required great care (and a walking pole) to cross safely.  I also belatedly discovered that it was possible to follow the path beyond the pool back to the main path near the stream.  This turning isn't at all obvious from the main path.  Whether it is a public footpath I'm unsure but it certainly looks well used.  This route has Bonelli's Warbler, Iberian Chiffchaff and often channels raptor passage. I've also recorded resident raptor species such as Bonelli's and Spanish Imperial Eagles here.   
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    About me ...

    Hi I'm John Cantelo. I've been birding seriously  since the 1960s when I met up with some like minded folks (all of us are still birding!) at Taunton's School in Southampton.  I have lived in Kent , where I taught History and Sociology, since the late 1970s. In that time I've served on the committees of both my local RSPB group and the county ornithological society (KOS).  I have also worked as a part-time field teacher for the RSPB at Dungeness.  Having retired I now spend as much time as possible in Alcala de los Gazules in SW Spain.   When I'm not birding I edit books for the Crossbill Guides series.

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