Alcala de los Gazules
Alcala de los Gazules from the Alcornocales
Alcala de los Gazules is a charming 'white village' which decorates a small hill at the edge of the Alcornocales Natural Park. Nestling, as it does, on the borders of the park it is a great base from which to explore the neglected glories of the cork oak woodlands and more rugged open mountains. It is also home to one of the largest Lesser Kestrel colonies in Andalucia. The village is regularly overflown by migrating raptors and in the last few years I have seen all the regular raptor species (Hen Harrier, Spanish Imperial Eagles and Black-winged Kite) from the terrace of our house there (all of which I've seen within a 10 minutes drive). In spring and autumn Bee-eaters regularly announce themselves with bubbling 'prrp-prrp' calls as they migrate. The nearby Molinos valley offers quick and easy access to the Natural Park - and with it the chance to see Iberian Chiffchaff, Sardinian and Bonelli's Warblers, Cirl Buntings, Woodchat Shrike, a huge Griffon Vulture roost.
The majority of birders who visit the area usually stay near Tarifa, understandably so as it's a great base for raptor watching. However, if you also want to visit the area's fabulous wetland sites (various lagunas and the sites along the Guadalquivir) or Grazalema then journey times may approach (or even exceed) a couple of hours. In contrast, Alcala is generally less than an hour (and sometimes much less) from all principal birding sites, but still only 30 minutes to raptor watching sites near Algeciras and only 20 minutes further to sites near Tarifa. As BoPs tend to head across the straits at a fairly civilised hour (after 10:00 AM) it's possible to enjoy the best of both worlds if you stay in Alcala! In fact it's such a great base I bought a house there! If you visit the village and I'm at home, pop in to enjoy the best views you'll ever get of Lesser Kestrel from our terrace (4-5 pairs nest in an old tower next to the house). And if I'm free I'd be happy to show some of my favourite birds and sites.
The majority of birders who visit the area usually stay near Tarifa, understandably so as it's a great base for raptor watching. However, if you also want to visit the area's fabulous wetland sites (various lagunas and the sites along the Guadalquivir) or Grazalema then journey times may approach (or even exceed) a couple of hours. In contrast, Alcala is generally less than an hour (and sometimes much less) from all principal birding sites, but still only 30 minutes to raptor watching sites near Algeciras and only 20 minutes further to sites near Tarifa. As BoPs tend to head across the straits at a fairly civilised hour (after 10:00 AM) it's possible to enjoy the best of both worlds if you stay in Alcala! In fact it's such a great base I bought a house there! If you visit the village and I'm at home, pop in to enjoy the best views you'll ever get of Lesser Kestrel from our terrace (4-5 pairs nest in an old tower next to the house). And if I'm free I'd be happy to show some of my favourite birds and sites.
The village
The 'passeo' in Alcala de los Gazules
Alcala de los Gazules is a pleasant Andalucian village with several supermarkets, restaurants, numerous bars and a lively community. Unlike similarly sized communities in the UK, which would be lucky to have a single shop, I am constantly amazed at the number and variety of shops found in Alcala - a baker's, a couple of fishmongers, several hardware stores, I don't know how many clothes/shoe shops, a number of places selling furniture and white goods and an uncountable number of tiny shops selling food in addition to the supermarket, a daily covered and weekly street market. You can even buy binoculars and 'scopes here!
In August they host an international music festival and in the warmer months there's often 'something going on.' Even if nothing's organised, it's pleasant to stroll round the village for a beer or coffee in the evenings (but remember Spaniards eat very late!).
La Vida Alcalaina - If you want to learn more about Alcala de los Gazules (or life in Cadiz province in general) then you couldn't do better than following this blog. Written by my neighbour, Claire Lloyd, it is a wonderfully diverse and interesting read - http://gazules.blogspot.com/
BIRDING SITES NEAR ALCALA
In August they host an international music festival and in the warmer months there's often 'something going on.' Even if nothing's organised, it's pleasant to stroll round the village for a beer or coffee in the evenings (but remember Spaniards eat very late!).
La Vida Alcalaina - If you want to learn more about Alcala de los Gazules (or life in Cadiz province in general) then you couldn't do better than following this blog. Written by my neighbour, Claire Lloyd, it is a wonderfully diverse and interesting read - http://gazules.blogspot.com/
BIRDING SITES NEAR ALCALA
Since Alcala can be reached by bus from Seville, Jerez, Cadiz & Algeciras, it is possible to stay there without a car and do some birding around the village . All of the sites noted here can be walked to within an hour (or less). The adventurous can take the early bus to Jerez, catch the Sanlucar bus and then jump on the regular bus up to Bonanza/Algaida. It's also possible to get to Bolonia by bus (via Algeciras and Tarifa). There's alse a direct bus to Cadiz where some sites are accessible by bus (see my bird notes for details).
Lesser Kestrel from our terrace
a) The Village
The village has a good population of Lesser Kestrel and on spring evenings 60-70 or more may hawk over the village. Spotless Starlings are present and, although most of the swift are Common, there are a few Pallid Swift mixed in amongst them and Alpine Swift is also regular. Barn Owls nest in the church tower at the top of the hill. Around the ruined castle – a nesting site for many Lesser Kestrels –vare the derelict mirador gardens from which you can get superb views across the Alcornocales. Blue Rock Thrush sometimes nest here. Birds of prey frequently overfly the village, particularly in spring and autumn. In addition to Lesser Kestrel I have recorded Griffon Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, Golden, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Osprey, Red and Black Kite, Honey Buzzard, Common Buzzard, Montagu's, Hen and Marsh Harriers, Sparrowhawk, Goshawk, Kestrel, Hobby, Peregrine and Merlin. Bee-eaters are common on passage when both White and Black Stork may be seen.
The old bridge and nearby trees immediately north of the village (on the Paterna road) can hold Golden Oriole. A track runs along the stream below the village and back towards the A381, but I’ve not found it very productive. Similarly the roads running north-west towards Algar and Paterna aren’t too interesting until you reach well into the hills.
The village has a good population of Lesser Kestrel and on spring evenings 60-70 or more may hawk over the village. Spotless Starlings are present and, although most of the swift are Common, there are a few Pallid Swift mixed in amongst them and Alpine Swift is also regular. Barn Owls nest in the church tower at the top of the hill. Around the ruined castle – a nesting site for many Lesser Kestrels –vare the derelict mirador gardens from which you can get superb views across the Alcornocales. Blue Rock Thrush sometimes nest here. Birds of prey frequently overfly the village, particularly in spring and autumn. In addition to Lesser Kestrel I have recorded Griffon Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, Golden, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Osprey, Red and Black Kite, Honey Buzzard, Common Buzzard, Montagu's, Hen and Marsh Harriers, Sparrowhawk, Goshawk, Kestrel, Hobby, Peregrine and Merlin. Bee-eaters are common on passage when both White and Black Stork may be seen.
The old bridge and nearby trees immediately north of the village (on the Paterna road) can hold Golden Oriole. A track runs along the stream below the village and back towards the A381, but I’ve not found it very productive. Similarly the roads running north-west towards Algar and Paterna aren’t too interesting until you reach well into the hills.
Path into the hills along the Molinos valley
b) Molinos valley walk
Despite the proximity of the village, the Molinos valley is quite hidden and feels surprisingly ‘wild’. The valley can ‘channel’ migrants and flocks of Bee-eaters are frequent in the spring. A track on the right (see map) can be worth exploring for Black-eared Wheatear (and I’ve also had Great Spotted Cuckoo and Tawny Pipit here). As there’s a large roost of Griffon Vultures further up the valley these can often be seen in good numbers emerging from or going to roost. I have regularly seen Booted and Short-toed Eagles plus occasional Bonelli’s Eagle and, during passage, Egyptian Vultures and Black Storks. I have once had Rock Sparrow at the far end of the valley. Most larks here are Crested, but Thekla can be seen with luck (particularly at the far end of the valley.
At its far end, the road gives way to a footpath that winds up into the wooded hills to a ruined mill (molino). This is a great walk where you can find all the species mentioned previously plus Iberian Chiffchaff, Firecrest, Cirl Bunting and Iberian race of Long-tailed Tit. If nothing else this is a fabulous walk with excellent views.
Despite the proximity of the village, the Molinos valley is quite hidden and feels surprisingly ‘wild’. The valley can ‘channel’ migrants and flocks of Bee-eaters are frequent in the spring. A track on the right (see map) can be worth exploring for Black-eared Wheatear (and I’ve also had Great Spotted Cuckoo and Tawny Pipit here). As there’s a large roost of Griffon Vultures further up the valley these can often be seen in good numbers emerging from or going to roost. I have regularly seen Booted and Short-toed Eagles plus occasional Bonelli’s Eagle and, during passage, Egyptian Vultures and Black Storks. I have once had Rock Sparrow at the far end of the valley. Most larks here are Crested, but Thekla can be seen with luck (particularly at the far end of the valley.
At its far end, the road gives way to a footpath that winds up into the wooded hills to a ruined mill (molino). This is a great walk where you can find all the species mentioned previously plus Iberian Chiffchaff, Firecrest, Cirl Bunting and Iberian race of Long-tailed Tit. If nothing else this is a fabulous walk with excellent views.
Road to the Santuario looking back towards Alcala
c) Santuario Nuestra Senora de los Santos
This site is well signposted off the A381 and the santuario itself is well worth a look if only to confirm that mediaeval ideas are alive and well in catholic Spain. A site I’ve scarcely explored, but there are interesting tracks here running to the north and south here through old olive groves. To the north the track takes you under the A381 whilst to the south you eventually reach open fields behind Benalup. All look ripe for careful exploration. All the expected species may be found plub) Molinos valley walkDespite the proximity of the village, the Molinos valley is quite hidden and feels surprisingly ‘wild’. The valley can ‘channel’ migrants and flocks of Bee-eaters are frequent in the spring. A track on the right (see map) can be worth exploring for Black-eared Wheatear (and I’ve also had Great Spotted Cuckoo and Tawny Pipit here). As there’s a large roost of Griffon Vultures further up the valley these can often be seen in good numbersemerging from or going to roost. I have regularly seen Booted and Short-toed Eagles plus occasional Bonelli’s Eagle and, during passage, Egyptian Vultures and Black Storks. I have once had Rock Sparrow at the far end of the valley. Most larks here are Crested, but Thekla can be seen with luck (particularly at the far end of the valley.
At its far end, the road gives way to a footpath that winds up into the wooded hills to a ruined mill (molino). This is a great walk where you can find all the species mentioned previously plus Iberian Chiffchaff, Firecrest, Cirl Bunting and Iberian race of Long-tailed Tit. If nothing else this is a fabulous walk with excellent views.s an outside chance of Black-winged Kite.
This site is well signposted off the A381 and the santuario itself is well worth a look if only to confirm that mediaeval ideas are alive and well in catholic Spain. A site I’ve scarcely explored, but there are interesting tracks here running to the north and south here through old olive groves. To the north the track takes you under the A381 whilst to the south you eventually reach open fields behind Benalup. All look ripe for careful exploration. All the expected species may be found plub) Molinos valley walkDespite the proximity of the village, the Molinos valley is quite hidden and feels surprisingly ‘wild’. The valley can ‘channel’ migrants and flocks of Bee-eaters are frequent in the spring. A track on the right (see map) can be worth exploring for Black-eared Wheatear (and I’ve also had Great Spotted Cuckoo and Tawny Pipit here). As there’s a large roost of Griffon Vultures further up the valley these can often be seen in good numbersemerging from or going to roost. I have regularly seen Booted and Short-toed Eagles plus occasional Bonelli’s Eagle and, during passage, Egyptian Vultures and Black Storks. I have once had Rock Sparrow at the far end of the valley. Most larks here are Crested, but Thekla can be seen with luck (particularly at the far end of the valley.
At its far end, the road gives way to a footpath that winds up into the wooded hills to a ruined mill (molino). This is a great walk where you can find all the species mentioned previously plus Iberian Chiffchaff, Firecrest, Cirl Bunting and Iberian race of Long-tailed Tit. If nothing else this is a fabulous walk with excellent views.s an outside chance of Black-winged Kite.
d) Service Road
The short stretch of service road between the two exits for Alcala often deserve a quick look. I’ve had both Melodious and Olivaceous Warblers in scrub by the bridge over the river (below which Red-rumped Swallow often breeds). I have also had Eagle Owl perched on the pylons here. Although the noise from the A381 can be intrusive, there is very little traffic on this road which can be explored easily on foot.
The short stretch of service road between the two exits for Alcala often deserve a quick look. I’ve had both Melodious and Olivaceous Warblers in scrub by the bridge over the river (below which Red-rumped Swallow often breeds). I have also had Eagle Owl perched on the pylons here. Although the noise from the A381 can be intrusive, there is very little traffic on this road which can be explored easily on foot.
Embalse de Barbate with the Alcornocales in the background
e) Embalse de Barbate
The road to Benalup skirts the Embalse de Barbate allowing good views across the reservoir. When the water level is high stop by the large ‘Parque Natural’ sign (c2km from the A381) and walk down the track to the ‘observatorio’ (watchpoint). The scrub here may also hold Melodious and Olivaceous Warblers and can be good for migrants. The margins of the reservoir may attract waders, storks and Spoonbill. If very dry the near ‘shore’ will be nothing more than a large field – sometimes attracting Montagu’s Harrier. Look out for Osprey which now breed on the reservoir following a reintroduction programme. About 4 km from the main road there’s another footpath/track which takes you down into woodland. This area can also be good for raptors and I’ve had a Black-winged Kite here.
Don’t ignore the Visitors’ Centre here (on your right just after you leave the A381) as it has an excellent interpretive display to the Alcornocales and is a good source for maps, information leaflets and postcards (generally it’s the only local source for the latter).
The road to Benalup skirts the Embalse de Barbate allowing good views across the reservoir. When the water level is high stop by the large ‘Parque Natural’ sign (c2km from the A381) and walk down the track to the ‘observatorio’ (watchpoint). The scrub here may also hold Melodious and Olivaceous Warblers and can be good for migrants. The margins of the reservoir may attract waders, storks and Spoonbill. If very dry the near ‘shore’ will be nothing more than a large field – sometimes attracting Montagu’s Harrier. Look out for Osprey which now breed on the reservoir following a reintroduction programme. About 4 km from the main road there’s another footpath/track which takes you down into woodland. This area can also be good for raptors and I’ve had a Black-winged Kite here.
Don’t ignore the Visitors’ Centre here (on your right just after you leave the A381) as it has an excellent interpretive display to the Alcornocales and is a good source for maps, information leaflets and postcards (generally it’s the only local source for the latter).
Roman road along the Lomo del Judio
f) Lomo del Judio
Just to the south of the service station, a track runs under and then parallel to the A381 before veering off towards the Embalse de Barbate. If you continue along the old metalled road you soon find your route blocked by the reservoir. If water levels are high look here for waders, egrets, etc. Before you reach this point, however, a rough track (signposted Hacienda del Agua) goes off to your right to Lomo del Judio. This is now a hilly ‘spur’ between two arms of the reservoir. Swifts (all three species) can form huge swarms here in spring and autumn. Woodchat Shrike are common and Iberian Grey Shrike are found on passage and during winter. Views of the reservoir, however, are distant. Also of note here – and itself worth the journey - is a well preserved stretch of Roman road. The small stand of trees at the far end of the track apparently sometimes has Eagle Owl.
g) Old Paterna Road
Taking the service road north from the junction with the A 381 you soon reach a track on your right to Paterna. This pleasant area of open woodland and pasture deserves a closer look. The old bridge and nearby trees immediately north of the village (on the Paterna road) can hold Golden Oriole. A track runs along the stream below the village and back towards the A381, but I’ve not found it very productive. Similarly the roads running north-west towards Algar and Paterna aren’t too interesting until you reach well into the hills. The road off to the north-east heading towards Ubrique and into the Alcornocales can be excellent for bis, but in it’s initial stages it has less of interest than the Molinos valley.
Taking the service road north from the junction with the A 381 you soon reach a track on your right to Paterna. This pleasant area of open woodland and pasture deserves a closer look. The old bridge and nearby trees immediately north of the village (on the Paterna road) can hold Golden Oriole. A track runs along the stream below the village and back towards the A381, but I’ve not found it very productive. Similarly the roads running north-west towards Algar and Paterna aren’t too interesting until you reach well into the hills. The road off to the north-east heading towards Ubrique and into the Alcornocales can be excellent for bis, but in it’s initial stages it has less of interest than the Molinos valley.
Alcala de los Gazules
(Stephen Daly)
