Iberian Chiffchaff at El Terero April 2023 (Photo: Jason Moule)
In Irby's seminal 1875 book on the area, "The Ornithology of the Straits of Gibraltar", the 'phylosc' warblers with an odd song that inhabited the Alcornocales were regarded as a race of Willow Warbler with an unusual local dialect. This was a forgivable error in an era without recordings of bird vocalisations and in the context of the species' flourish at the end of its song. It wasn't until Hubert Lynes published a paper on them in 1914 that it was realised that the birds were a form of (Common) Chiffchaff (for more details see here). Lynes observed of the song that “... if it was a poor Willow-Warbler's song, it was an impossible Chiffchaff's”.
Unfortunately, nobody took much notice of this form, native to Europe, which was scarcely covered, if at all, in European field guides. Ironically, Siberian Chiffchaff, a non-breeding vagrant to Europe enjoyed much fuller treatment. The excellent "MacMillan Guide to Bird Identification" (1989) hardly mentions it saying only that "Chiffchaffs of the Iberian race give an intermediate song" (i.e. between Chiffchaff & Willow Warbler) which was neither helpful nor entirely accurate. The first edition of the "Collins Guide" was hardly much of an improvement adding only details of the call and an unconvincing description of the song.
It wasn't until it began being treated as a distinct species in the early 2000s that Iberian Chiffchaff garnered any attention. . As far as I'm aware, the first attempt to illustrate how the plumage of Iberian birds differed from the nominate race was by Peter Hayman in "The Complete Guide to the Birdlife of Britain & Europe" (2000 & reproduced in the pocket version in 2002). These underrated books depicted two images of this species - one bright & one dull. To my eye the brighter bird looks too much like a Wood Warbler (too green & too yellow) but the duller example is very close to the birds I see in southern Spain. Surprisingly, however, the diagnostic vocalisations were not described. Happily, the second and subsequent editions of the Collins Guide illustrate Iberian Chiffchaff and describe the vocalisations very well. It is also well treated in the WildGuides' "Europe's Birds".
For a resume of the main difference see below. Although the song is usually diagnostic, 'mixed singers' (birds that mix the songs of both taxa) sometimes occur although a 'proper' Iberian Chiffchaff is far more likely in this area. For recordings of the song and call on Xeno-canto - see here.
Unfortunately, nobody took much notice of this form, native to Europe, which was scarcely covered, if at all, in European field guides. Ironically, Siberian Chiffchaff, a non-breeding vagrant to Europe enjoyed much fuller treatment. The excellent "MacMillan Guide to Bird Identification" (1989) hardly mentions it saying only that "Chiffchaffs of the Iberian race give an intermediate song" (i.e. between Chiffchaff & Willow Warbler) which was neither helpful nor entirely accurate. The first edition of the "Collins Guide" was hardly much of an improvement adding only details of the call and an unconvincing description of the song.
It wasn't until it began being treated as a distinct species in the early 2000s that Iberian Chiffchaff garnered any attention. . As far as I'm aware, the first attempt to illustrate how the plumage of Iberian birds differed from the nominate race was by Peter Hayman in "The Complete Guide to the Birdlife of Britain & Europe" (2000 & reproduced in the pocket version in 2002). These underrated books depicted two images of this species - one bright & one dull. To my eye the brighter bird looks too much like a Wood Warbler (too green & too yellow) but the duller example is very close to the birds I see in southern Spain. Surprisingly, however, the diagnostic vocalisations were not described. Happily, the second and subsequent editions of the Collins Guide illustrate Iberian Chiffchaff and describe the vocalisations very well. It is also well treated in the WildGuides' "Europe's Birds".
For a resume of the main difference see below. Although the song is usually diagnostic, 'mixed singers' (birds that mix the songs of both taxa) sometimes occur although a 'proper' Iberian Chiffchaff is far more likely in this area. For recordings of the song and call on Xeno-canto - see here.
Despite scattered breeding records across Spain, it is largely confined as a breeding species to three main areas: north-west Spain (including northern Portugal and some leakage into France), the southern Atlantic coast of Portugal and the mountains of western Andalucia (mainly the Alcornocales and Grazalema). Broadly, this mirrors areas with higher rainfall.
Iberian Chiffchaff range - scattered breeding also occurs across Spain.
Lynes notes that "... singing males of this species shared the cork-oak glades in about equal proportion as Bonelli's". Personally, however, I think that, whilst both are to be found in Cork Oak woodlands, Bonelli's Warbler is the more common of the two in such habitat. In my experience, Iberian Chiffchaff is more frequent in woodlands dominated by Algerian Oak (which resembles the familiar oak trees of the UK) which also has Bonelli's Warbler. Iberian Chiffchaffs seem to particularly like canutos* where there's a mix of Algerian Oak, Alder, elm and ash trees. This latter habitat perhaps reflects the species' wider distribution in wetter parts of Iberia.
* Canutos are incised valleys within valley which enjoy a moist sub-climate.
* Canutos are incised valleys within valley which enjoy a moist sub-climate.
A cross section showing a canuto from 'The Crossbill Guide to Western Andalucia'
Iberian Chiffchaffs are a species that most birders want to find in the area even if their primary focus is witnessing raptor passage or seeing wetland birds. They can be found quite widely in the Alcornocales where I've found them in Sierra de Montecoche, Valdeinfierno, Arroyo de la Miel, El Pelayo, El Bujeo, etc. However, several of these sites involve a short/medium walk so for birders in a hurry I suggest two sites where they can be found a few paces from the car and both no more than a few minutes off the A 381. These sites also have other attractions which make the stop worthwhile.
Site I - El Torero
This site is best accessed from Exit 54 whether arriving from the north or south. It's worth pausing after leaving the A381 as the area around the junction also has a good track record for turning up White-rumped Swift. When the reservoir levels are high this is also a good spot for Osprey (although the continuing drought means the shoreline of the reservoir is a kilometre of more away). Heading south along the service road after 3.5 km you reach the turning for El Torero on the right. This section of the old Jerez-Algeciras is shrouded by trees almost forming a tunnel. Iberian Chiffchaff can be seen and heard anywhere along the road but particularly c100-200m from the service road. Passing the track to El Torero on the left after c1 km you reach a bridge over a small stream (the track continues but is fenced off here). Bee-eaters sometimes breed in the river bank and you have an unobstructed view of the sky to look for raptors. This makes an ideal great place for a lunch break.
Site II - Ojen Valley
The Ojen valley was once a key site for visiting birders but is now infrequently visited since the track through it was closed to motor vehicles. However, it's still worth a quick stop to look for Iberian Chiffchaff at the start of the route. From Exit 77 on the A 381 it's only c550m to the turning on to the Ojen Valley track. Park at the start of the track and follow the Corredor Verde dos Bahias downhill to the left. After c80m stepping stones take you over the Rio Palmones (here reduced to a small stream). Stop here and listen for Iberian Chiffchaff's distinctive song. This is also a site for Monarch butterfly. For a better view across the area you can take the Corredor Verde dos Bahias uphill. Should you feel so inclined, you can also venture into the Ojen valley on foot. After c3.5 km a footpath on the left takes you on a 3 km circular route through woodland to an ancient necropolis (Santuario de Bacinete), making a 10 km round trip.
I can't resist finishing by noting the charming Spanish word for all small leaf warblers is Mosquitero. Google Translate tells me that the word means mosquito-net but in this context mosquito-catcher is more apt. Hence, the subject of this blog has the delightful Spanish name Mosquitero Ibérico.
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