Rufous Bushchats are notorious for two things, arriving late in the year and having more names than Grant Shapps.*  If you read the text books, what's now formally known as Rufous-tailed Bush Robin only arrives in Spain in mid-May (or even later in early June).  Whilst broadly true, that doesn't mean it's pointless to look any earlier.  This year I looked on 30th April and my optimism was rewarded by finding one (at 'd' on my map) and a few days later I located a second one singing from its favoured pomegranite tree (at 'b'). I've also had them here in the second week of September. 

Iberia is exceptionally blessed with unique wildlife whether they be plants, reptiles, amphibians, mammals or birds.  Amongst the latter are about a dozen species whose European range is entirely (or almost so) on the Iberian peninsula and three species - Iberian Green Woodpecker, Iberian Chiffchaff, Spanish Imperial Eagle - that essentially breed nowhere else in the world. Happily, most of these 'special' birds are not too challenging to see but, unsurprisingly, given its habits and history, Dupont's Lark.  I'd tried to see them once back in 2001 but my attempt was hampered by not knowing precisely where to look and having little idea, beyond a wordy description, what they sounded like (plus a cold and reluctant wife for company).  The Hamlyn guide's description of the song as "contains rasping notes" was vague and misleading.  Heinzel did better by calling the song a "double whistle on a rising scale, hoo-hee". Peterson did better still describing the song as "short high, musical and nasal phrases, the most distinctive being "dzee-too-see" but, frankly, such descriptions make little sense until after you've heard the real thing (and often not even then).   ​

We arrived at Ablitas mid-afternoon to begin our search along a series of dirt tracks crossing what seemed to be perfect habitat - low dry scrub (see photos).  Unfortunately, although we saw a few larks and other species, we heard and saw no sign of Dupont's Lark until dusk.  Then several birds started to sing along the track we'd spent much of the afternoon investigating.  Nigel and I caught a glimpse of a bird scurrying around where one had been singing and as dusk gave way to darkness, I had a brief view of a vague shape sitting up on a rock from the direction of a singing Dupont's. Disappointing, but at least we knew we were in the right area! 

We arrived the next morning before it was light and were treated to a chorus of 13+ Dupont's Lark singing away along the track in the dark.  As the light grew most of these birds fell silent, but one continued to sing unabated.  After some anxious moments, Brendan spotted the alaudine chorister  on top of a small rock.  This bird proved to be surprisingly showy changing its song perch several times as we watched. Although the bird mainly sang from the ground using small boulders or low bushes as song posts, it also launched itself into its song-flight several times. Far from the mere glimpse I had feared, the bird favoured us with excellent 'scope views. Against all expectation, I even managed to get some decent photos and video footage with my bridge camera (Nikon Coolpix 900).  I was both surprised and delighted by how clearly I could hear it singing (probably helped by my inability to detect other songsters!). We returned the next morning for a repeat performance and the bird duly obliged. This time, we also had views of two birds as they sprinted through the low scrub. Only the word "sprint" will do as "run" hardly does justice to the speed and acceleration that the birds demonstrated. They're not so much larks as mini-Roadrunners.  Walking along an old track to a distant ruin, managed to locate a third bird singing a couple of hundred metres away (see photos).  I've since read that Dupont's will often sing during the day but we had heard none the previous afternoon and 80% of the birds here fell silent shortly after dawn.  So my advice is to get there pre-dawn to work out where the birds are singing and then quietly scan from the track (perhaps using you vehicle as a hide) for any movement. 

Sadly, Dupont's Lark is in trouble.  As noted above we had at least 13 songsters along a couple of kilometres of track at Ablitas.  There seemed a lot of suitable habitat for the species in the area but evidently the birds we heard represent a third or more of the local population.  Nationally, a recent survey found just under 2,300 territorial males but this figure gives an over optimistic picture as males outnumber females. Research in 2018 suggested that there were only 1,200-1,400 pairs and that the  population is falling at about 4% per annum. The primary cause of decline seems to be habitat loss and fragmentation leaving many sub-populations vulnerable. Even the population at Ablitas may be at long-term risk as it is relatively isolated and the indications are that genetic exchanges between populations are low. Unless urgent remedial work is undertaken it looks likely that the species will soon become extinct in Andalusia, Valencia, Murcia and Cataluna.  A key problem is that much of the population lies outside reserves and protected areas so at risk from the constant nibbling away of its habitat. Having been 'lost' for most of its history it would be tragic to lose them entirely. 

For a species list of what we saw and some better photos look at  eBird Checklist - 14 Apr 2024 - 31523, Ablitas ES-Navarra 41.95917, -1.61279 - 23 species

Marismas de Trebujena
The new reserve on the Marismas de Trebujena continues to be developed and now features a car park and a noticeboard. The (translated) text on this reads as follows:
​The Esparraguera marshes, in Trebujena, were transformed in the middle of the last century by means of a drainage system for cultivation, an operation that failed due to the high salinity of the substrate and its excessive clay content but which left the soil profoundly altered. hydrological and ecological functioning of the system.

In this context, the Junta de Andalucía has recovered some of the old pikes (fresh or brackish water lagoons) with the aim of conserving the biodiversity of the area, especially by recovering one of the main nesting areas for bird species. aquatic species such as Marbled Duck (Marmaronetta angustirostris), Red-knobbed Coot (Fulica cristata) or White-headed Duck (Oxyura leucocephala).

These wetlands will also help to recover the functionality of the Guadalquivir estuary by functioning as refuge and fattening areas for fry of the numerous species of fish and crustaceans that develop in the estuary and helping to laminate the floods that occur in winter. Finally, this action also pursues the development of business initiatives linked to nature tourism and the sustainable extraction of renewable resources (shrimp, salicornia, etc.) that help diversify the current uses of the region.

Enjoy these spaces but do so with respect and caution: remember that you are in a sensitive system whose conservation depends on everyone. Do not abandon the trails and, if your dog accompanies you, remember the importance of always keeping him on a leash". 

As can be surmised from this information, it seems that the footpath across the reserve will be open access to all. The reserve currently remains in a raw state and unvegetated but should be much improved by 2025.

The map on the information board would have been scorned by my old Geography teacher, Mr Clowser, as merely a pretty picture as it has neither a scale nor a simple compass rose. An added confusion is that you're facing south as you look at the information board and, since the map is conventionally organised with north at the top, you have to mentally turn it upside down to orientate it with what you see!     

The viewing screen at Laguna de Tarelo is a popular place to catch up with White-headed and Marbled Ducks and view nesting Spoonbills (which seem to have displaced most of the smaller egrets and herons that nested on the island).  Those using my guide and savvy birders have long appreciated that the laguna could also be viewed from an unofficial viewpoint along Calle 'N'.  As long as you pull well over to allow tractors and attendant agricultural machinery to get past, the locals don't seem to mind you parking here for a while.  The birds might be less forgiving so be careful not to disturb them. 

A decade or more ago when I started writing my guide I continued along Calle 'N' but found a sturdy pair of gates behind the laguna prevented further progress both on foot or in a vehicle.  However, these gates have now been removed so you can drive along the track behind the laguna, turn left and then pull off where the track turn right.  From this third viewpoint, you can scan across the salinas for Marbled Duck (which seem to like the wetter areas) and across to the Marisma de Henares for Flamingos and waders. This is a quick alternative to driving around to Bonanza if you want a 'wader fix' but take care to view from a distance to avoid unduly disturbing the birdlife. Whether this route will remain open for long remains to be seen but the farm workers didn't seem to object to my presence here.     

Pinar de la Algaida.
The track through the Pinar de la Algaida and on to the Guadalquivir is now in an extremely poor condition and a couple of winters with heavy rain could make it undrivable in anything other than a 4x4. Fortunately, an alternative route exists to reach the far end of the pinewoods via Calle 'G' which is not only in better condition (currently!) but affords good 'scope views of the large Spoonbill colony that has developed at the northern end of the woods in recent years.  This area also holds nesting White Storks and Black Kites. Visitors should avoid disturbing these birds and the area is out of bounds in the breeding season (see photos below).  Note that reports of Azure-winged Magpie at this once reliable site continue to be very sparse.  

Note that the track which continues north to the river is, if anything, worse than that through the woods (although mercifully much shorter) so great caution should be used when using it.  Once you reach the river the condition of the road improves particularly after the car park for the new reserve.  Hopefully this new facility will encourage the authorities to improve the route.    

I wrote about the exciting development of a major reserve due to open this year (2024) on restored marismas in a previous post (More cheers for Trebujena! (weebly.com)) so I was keen to see what progress had been made with this ambitious project.  Looking at GoogleEarth images (see above), I already knew that major earthworks had already been undertaken but there's no thing like seeing things for yourself to get a feel for what's going on.   

Although I had seen the plans and the GoogleEarth view, I was not prepared for the sheer scale and ambition that was apparent 'on the ground'.  The reserve will be vast.  My photos are entirely inadequate to the task but I hope that they give some sort of useful impression.  The exposed earth is still in a raw state without vegetation as too are the pools but the potential is extraordinary even though I couldn't see the southernmost pools (Lucios ES 3 & ES 4 and Lucios GH 5, 6 & 7 on map below).   Several bridges connecting the islands have already been built and, hopefully, the two viewing towers I could see will be supplemented by hides elsewhere.  It will take time for things to 'bed down' but it should be a stunning place to visit in spring 2025 - I can't wait!    

Properly managed - and there's the rub - for both birds and birdwatchers, it will become a mecca for visiting ornithological tourists.  Similar reserves on Majorca (and elsewhere in Spain) are managed well for both wildlife and visitors but in my experience Andalucia doesn't have a great track record in this respect, The excellent visitors' centre with an interesting botanical garden near Alcala de los Gazules, for example, has been closed for years (although the buildings have been repainted indicating this may change).  Closer to home, the small reserve nearby (where the road turns along the river) seems to be permanently closed but thankfully can be viewed from the road. (I suspect it's role is educational but the new reserve is surely too large for that to be the sole aim). Decent management and access will mean on-going funding to employ a workforce after EU grants have expired  Without this investment, due to the huge scale of this new venture, there will be only limited options to do so along the road beside the Guadalquivir. 

In short, if well managed this reserve threatens to shift the understandable (but limiting) ornithological ' centre of gravity' away from Tarifa towards the  north of the province. Hopefully, the progressive local council in Trebujena will grasp this opportunity whilst visiting birders will repay them by spending money locally! 

For the past 20 years a sword of Damocles in the form of a plan to build an urbanization of 300 luxury villas, hotels and a golf course has hung over the former marshland habitats beside the Guadalquivir near Trebujena.  Lagunas here were drained in the mid-1950s but the land proved unsuitable for agriculture (other than rough grazing) due to its high salinity. In 2003 wealthy Belgian developer, Bernard Devos, hatched a plan to build a tourist complex comprising of 300 villas, a hotel and a golf course on the site (see below). This idea remained officially sanctioned as late as 2019 as the Junta de Andalucía continued to approve of the scheme and the local municipality even modified its plans to accommodate it.  At the same time, there were alternative ideas for this site involving the restoration of the marshes (supported amongst others by the excellent ‘Ecologistas en Acción’ organisation and latterly the local government. 

I’d long been aware of these plans but was prompted to do a little more digging by an article in La Voz del Sur sent to me by my fellow Cadiz birding aficionado Richard Page-Jones (see https://www.lavozdelsur.es/actualidad/ecologia/miradores-observatorios-senderos-resucitara-trebujena-marisma-lleva-seca-siglo_285078_102.html).  
Happily, the plans for the urbanisation have now been terminally scuppered by opposition from the Confederación Hidrográfica del Guadalquivir (CHG) and staunch opposition from the current mayor of Trebujena, Ramón Galán. The CHG found that the lack of water resources for the macro-urbanization and the golf course made the plan untenable (which environmentalists have been saying for two decades!). This finding was celebrated by ‘Ecologistas en Acción’ in March 2023 (see the photo below from their website).

Click here to edit.

The ambitious plans to convert the area to its former status as c700,000 sq. m. wetland with freshwater pools are now well in hand at a cost of almost €2 million (see the map above). The project should be finished in 2024 and will provide viewpoints, bird hides and several large shallow pools (regulated by sluice gates to control salinity). These new pools should be viewable from the CA 9027 as it runs along the northern perimeter of the reserve and from the south via a new pedestrian route giving access (see below). The mayor of Trebujena, Ramón Galán, commented to the media that "This project is very important for Trebujena and we have been waiting for it for a long time," adding that it is "a clear example of collaboration between Administrations to promote a project in a sustainable way in a natural environment. Its regeneration will favour the establishment of birdlife and ornithological tourism." Wise words!  Mercedes Colombo, a delegate of the Andalusian Government in Cádiz added that "This diversity of environments (fresh and brackish), and the existence of different levels of flooding, will allow the lagoons to become one of the main nesting areas for the Marbled Duck, a species classified as endangered at the national level. and that has suffered a dramatic decline in its populations in recent years."

 After combing through the internet without success, I turned to searching tweets by the local government (Ayuntamiento de Trebujena - @AytoTrebujena).   I eventually found a map (see above) of the development in a tweet (28/09/2023).  Unfortunately, the map has an incomplete key which doesn’t explain various red and yellow dots (sluice gates?) and a series of cryptic initials and what is visible hasn’t entirely succumbed to “Google Translate”.  However, it does give a good idea of the scope of the plans particularly when viewed in the larger context of the route along CA 9027 beside the Guadalquivir roughly half of which will now enjoy views over an interesting wetland rather than very poor dry habitats (albeit good for sandgrouse!).  The size of the scheme can also be better appreciated when compared to the already extant scheme further to the east (see ‘A’ and ‘B’ on my map below).  

In 2023 I saw diggers and workmen here and, I confess, assumed the worst – a new drainage scheme perhaps.  Fortunately, my pessimism has now turned to optimism and the work on the new reserve should be finished in 2024.  The two images below (culled from Google) show the area pre-development (from “GH1” and “GH3” - note the access track here). 

As I have noted in a previous blog (see - https://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/cadiz-birding-blog-page/spring-2019-update-5-three-cheers-for-trebujena), the community here has commendable pride in hosting the largest colony of Rufous Bushchat (Alzacola rojizo) Spain.  The area is already dotted with handsome ceramic signs celebrating the area’s natural and historical heritage. 

This new reserve shows a further commitment to this ethos and is a most welcome practical step towards the Ayuntamiento de Trebujena’s long term aims.  All of this has been achieved with admirable public debate and the support of the local citizens  Given this commitment, I’m hopeful that this new reserve will be more easily accessed than the current one. I will give updates regarding access as soon as they are available.  ​

In my own small way (via this blog, my guide to birding in Cadiz and my co-authorship of the Crossbill Guide to the Western Andalucia) I’ve been trying to convince people for years that there’s more to birding in the area than just watching raptor passage across the straits.  There may be no denying that the raptor passage across the straits is the jewel in the crown but the Guadalquivir littoral is a diadem that shouldn’t be missed. Trebujena makes a great base for exploring this area as within minutes you can explore local hotspots with sought after birds like Rufous Bushchat, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Marbled and White-headed Ducks, to the west Chipiona with its colony of Little Swifts (and the potential for joining the regular pelagic birding trips from there) is only thirty minutes away and to the north-east you can be birding the fabulous Brazo del Este in 45 minutes.  Best of all, by using Trebujena as a base you support an excellent local initiative.  So if you’re a regular to the area or even a new visitor instead of doing the obvious thing and staying along the straits consider splitting your stay between Tarifa and Trebujena – you won’t be disappointed!  

Charco de los Hurones
Note that the road from the CA 503 up to the Charco de los Hurones (E 2.2 h) is currently (​March 2024) closed. It's blocked off and a sign reads "Carretera de acceso al poblado cortada por riesgo de incendios y obras" (Access road to the town closed due to risk of fires and works).  I'm told that the "works" are to repair the route after a serious landslip. Presumably, as access to the dam is of sufficient importance for it to be repaired in the relative near future although when the fire risk will be at an acceptable level is difficult to say. However, an extended closure may put the venta here at risk of closure. Fortunately, it's not a major site for birds although it is an attractive one. 

Laguna de Torrox
I spent a couple of hours walking around this laguna (NW 12 g/h) one morning and managed to find my 'target bird' - a Red-knobbed Coot.  I also had an early Sedge Warbler, an abundance of Chiffchaffs, Serins, Red-crested Pochards, Great-crested Grebes, Crag and House Martins and plenty of Swallows, etc. The western arm of this 'figure-of-eight' laguna had the largest area of reeds so is presumably the best place to look for Purple Swamphen and Little Bittern (I only saw the first here but both occur).  Fortunately, the reeds here are less well screened by tamarisk than much of the laguna.  The eastern end was a little more open and less enclosed by buildings.  Both have small islands on which herons, gulls, ducks and Cormorants rested.  Although not a major birding destination this site is an excellent option if staying in Jerez without a car (buses run from the centre to here) or when doing a shopping run. 

Incidentally, the "Red-knobbed Coot" I saw last year at the Costa Ballena  (see below) has now been confirmed as a Common Coot x Red-knobbed Coot hybrid.  The clues were there but like most other observers I missed them being seduced by the bluish bill and incipient red knobs! 

Laguna de Medina 
Laguna de Medina (NW 9) should be full of water (and birds) in late winter but it presented a sorry spectacle this February. What little water remained was very shallow and crowded with gulls (mainly Yellow-legged and Lesser Black -backed Gulls) with a small flock of Shoveler. It was such a sad scene that I didn't linger so their may have been more birds of a greater variety but not the masses of Coots, grebes and ducks there should have been. The blue line in the upper photo indicates the usual waterline.  Only a period of heavy sustained rain will rescue the laguna this spring.  As it dries out less often than the other lagunas lagunas, its state bodes ill for other laguna complexes (i.e. Lagunas de Puerto Real, de Chiclana, de Espera and del Puerto Santa Maria).