This is an area that I've not visited for some years so I'm particularly grateful to Julie Carter for pointing out the restrictions to this route July-November (see below)
For excellent photos of this area see also here
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Much, rightly, has been written about the dire state of the Coto Doñana in recent years but there seems to be some light at the end of the tunnel thanks to the work of Salarte (and others) in forming the Alianza Marismas del Guadalquivir-Doñana (Guadalquivir-Doñana Marshes Alliance) to restore wetlands in the area. One of the things that marks Salarte out from other conservation organisations is their commitment to working with communities and traditional occupations. Having already done much good work in the Bahai de Cadiz, they have set their sites on restoring marshes along the Guadalquivir. The organisation deserves enormous credit for the scope, ambition and innovative nature of this project. This attractive infographic below shows the extent of their project.  Although very attractive, the infographic above may be hard for those not familiar with the area to follow so I've set out the sites on the east bank of the Guadalquivir in a simple (if boring!) map.  The following article which appeared in the Dario de Cadiz explains the project. Since articles on newspaper websites sometimes disappear, I've taken the liberty of quoting it in full (and translating it into English via Google) but the original can be seen here. The Dario de Cadiz also deserves some credit for regularly highlighting conservation issues and is worth following online. An Alliance that reopens life in the marshes of the Guadalquivir Sustainability Deloitte and Salarte are committed to recovering the ecosystem of the marshes with an environmental and social revitalization project committed to biodiversity and local communities This alliance sets a precedent in innovation and sustainability for future generations, through ecological restoration and job promotion on the Northwest Coast Two organisations have joined forces in an alliance aimed at recovering a land of great strategic importance on the Northwest Coast: a valuable natural treasure located in the marshes that extend between the Guadalquivir River and the Doñana National Park. This ambitious project, supported by the collaboration between the multinational Deloitte and the Cadiz-based NGO Salarte, aims to revitalise the environment and social of a unique space. The signing of a historic collaboration agreement between the two entities marks the beginning of the project called the Alianza Marismas del Guadalquivir-Doñana (Guadalquivir-Doñana Marshes Alliance), which promises to become a model of integration between environmental conservation and sustainable development. This project represents a significant milestone, as Deloitte is positioned as the first private sector company to actively join the protection of this unique environment. Its involvement goes beyond economic investment: it is a commitment to sustainability that seeks to generate a lasting impact on both biodiversity and local communities. In a joint effort, Deloitte and Salarte are determined to restore the natural balance of the marshes, while creating new opportunities based on the principles of the blue economy, an approach that promotes the sustainable use of aquatic resources for economic growth, improved livelihoods, and the health of ecosystems. The agreement signed will allow the recovery of up to 140 hectares of marshes located between the Cadiz towns of Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Trebujena, two emblematic municipalities on the Northwest Coast. The specific areas of intervention include the historic Salinas de San Carlos and Santa Teresa, in the municipality of Sanlúcar, and the Codo de la Esparraguera, in the municipality of Trebujena. This area, characterised by its biodiversity and ecological importance, has suffered for decades from the effects of abandonment and environmental degradation. Among the main actions to be carried out within the framework of the project are the restoration of tidal systems, essential to guarantee the natural regeneration of the marshes; the conservation of critical habitats that support numerous species of flora and fauna; and the development of innovative management models that optimize ecosystem services. These actions will focus on activities such as sustainable aquaculture, responsible tourism and scientific research, which will contribute to diversifying economic opportunities in the region. Beyond Environmental Restoration: A Commitment to People The recovery of the marshes is not only an ecological issue; The project also pursues social and economic objectives that will directly benefit local communities. Deloitte and Salarte seek not only to preserve the natural environment, but also to promote human development and well-being in the area. To achieve this, both entities have designed a comprehensive plan that combines the recovery of the ecosystem with the creation of employment and the revaluation of traditional trades. The alliance promotes the recovery of labor practices that have been part of the region's cultural heritage, such as artisanal salt extraction and sustainable fishing. These activities, adapted to modern standards, will be key to generating economic opportunities in line with the natural environment. In addition, the project contemplates an ongoing collaboration with local training centers to train new generations in skills related to the sustainable management of natural resources. This will contribute to strengthening the social and economic fabric, laying the foundations for long-term development. In the words of Adolfo Gutiérrez de Gandarilla, partner in charge of Deloitte in Andalusia and Extremadura: "We are delighted to be part of such an emblematic project as the Guadalquivir-Doñana Marshes Alliance. Our commitment to sustainability is focused on enhancing natural capital and helping local communities manage their resources responsibly." For his part, Juan Martín Bermúdez, president of Salarte, stressed: "Deloitte's support is crucial to carry out actions that not only benefit biodiversity, but also future generations. We want to teach them the importance of preserving and taking advantage of the environment in a sustainable way, guaranteeing its conservation for the future". A strategic impact for the region The collaboration between Deloitte and Salarte highlights how a partnership between the private sector and the third sector can generate a transformative impact in the region. Both entities agree that their commitment goes beyond a simple one-off intervention; This is a long-term effort that seeks to set a precedent in the sustainable management of natural resources. Thanks to this alliance, the region will become a living laboratory of environmental, social and economic innovation. From protecting iconic species to creating new sustainable business models, the Guadalquivir-Doñana Marshes Alliance aims to demonstrate that it is possible to balance environmental conservation with human progress. In this context, the project stands as a benchmark in the province of Cádiz and throughout Andalusia, consolidating itself as an inspiring example for future environmental conservation and sustainable development initiatives. This collaborative model not only benefits local communities and biodiversity, but also establishes a roadmap for other projects in which sustainability is at the center. The Alliance is already generating life in the marshes The NGO Salarte leads an ambitious project for the restoration, custody and management of wetlands in the regions of the lower Guadalquivir, Doñana and the Northwest Coast. The Guadalquivir-Doñana Marshes Alliance is an innovative commitment that brings together farm owners and owners, managers, farmers, aquaculturists, fishermen, scientists, universities, public administrations, hunting societies and NGOs that seek to recover a network of 11,500 hectares of coastal wetlands and marshes in the provinces of Seville, Huelva and Cádiz, with the aim of safeguarding 13,800 hectares in 2027. The members of the Alliance are committed to recovering the natural heritage of the lower Guadalquivir, the Doñana marshes and the Gulf of Cadiz, seeking to conserve the natural capital and ecosystem services that guarantee the quality of life of its inhabitants, and to recover the balance of a unique ecosystem in Europe. In this way, the primary objective of the Alliance is to ensure the quality of life of the living beings that inhabit its shores, to offer guarantees to an organization as important in the region as the Fishermen's Guild of Sanlúcar to facilitate that they bring the best fish from the Atlantic, the estuaries of the Guadalquivir produce shrimp, quality sea bream and sea bass, and so that Doñana continues to be the most important wetland in Europe, pantry of the European South Atlantic and refuge for thousands of waterfowl. The Alliance is already working in the area known as the Paleocauce de los Olivillos, in the municipality of La Puebla del Río, with the aim of restoring 60 hectares of marshland, an urgent action in the face of the drastic reduction of wetlands, the decrease in rainfall and the lower availability of water, factors that significantly affect rice cultivation in the area. These conditions, added to the scarcity of flooded areas in the Doñana Natural Area, make the Corta de Los Olivillos a priority area for new restoration interventions. In this first phase, Salarte has begun the reflooding of 30 hectares of this emblematic paleochannel, which had not received water for four years during the summer season. Thanks to the authorizations obtained in May 2024, Salarte implemented a technical plan that has ensured a stable sheet of water during the summer months, coinciding with the breeding and molting season of numerous species of waterfowl. The interventions included an initial pumping to ensure water circulation and adequate gradients in the water column. In addition, there was the key collaboration of the rice farmers, who contributed decanted water to recover the ecological environment of the old mother of the Guadalquivir, the original channel through which Magellan, Columbus and many crews who crossed the Atlantic sailed. This first stage of recovery is just the beginning. Salarte plans to continue with the restoration of the Cortas de La Isleta and Los Olivillos, expanding its interventions to other areas of the lower Guadalquivir in the coming years, consolidating its commitment to biodiversity and sustainability. In addition to the reflooding, the project includes the restoration of another 30 hectares by removing mud and invasive vegetation, the integration of livestock to control part of the vegetation in a first phase, manual clearing, the creation of new channels to feed the dry marsh and the adaptation of veins, walls and central islands. which will serve as nesting areas for waterfowl such as waders, which depend on these wetlands for their survival. The project not only seeks to return an essential habitat to birds and aquatic fauna, but also to contribute to the balance of the Guadalquivir and its marshes, restoring a lost environment that affects both fauna and human communities that depend on the river. Thanks to the commitment of farmers and aquaculturists in the region, this first phase of 30 hectares today represents a refuge and a source of food for threatened and endangered species. "It is not only a matter of giving back to the ducks what should never have been taken from them, but of recovering an essential balance in the ecosystem of the Guadalquivir, guaranteeing that those who live and work on its banks can continue to do so in the future," says Juan Martín, president of Salarte and promoter of the Alliance. After a year of work, restoration efforts are already showing tangible results. Currently, the 30 hectares reflooded are home to hundreds of red-crested ducks, shovelers, common and brown ducks, gadducks, blue ducks, teals and marbled ducks, swamphens, grebes, grebes, coots, purple herons, stilts, avocets, black-tailed and bar-tailed godwits, terns, terns and harriers, among other taxa. More than 3,000 birds rest and feed in these marshes, which today represent an environment conducive to their development. This success has generated great expectation in the regions. Mayors such as Lola Prósper (La Puebla del Río), Carmen Álvarez (Sanlúcar de Barrameda) and Modesto González (Coria del Río) have requested technical visits to include new marshes and wetlands in their municipalities in the Alliance for their recovery and management. Additional Benefits and Goals Impact on biodiversity and local fisheries: Restored marshes are not only essential for numerous species of flora and fauna, but also strengthen local fisheries. Javier Garat, president of CEPESCA, warns that "if there is no water in the marsh, there is no fishing in the Gulf of Cadiz". Climate change mitigation: These areas function as storm tanks, retaining water, reducing flooding and sequestering carbon, helping to combat climate change. Pest control: Reflooding also promotes trophic balance, promoting the proliferation of insectivorous species that control pests such as the mosquitoes that transmit the West Nile virus, according to CSIC researchers. Sustainable production: According to the scientist José Pedro Cañavate, "each hectare of rehabilitated marshland produces one ton of food per year", contributing to economic development and the fixation of rural population through green jobs. The project stands as an example of how ecological restoration can harmonize biodiversity, economic development and social well-being in a joint effort for a more sustainable future. The following links give more information about this ambitious project: https://youtu.be/tayKZZLwLGg
 House Bunting - Morocco 2019 The Spanish and scientific names for House Bunting, Escribanos saharianos and Emberiza sahari, reminds us of its largely Saharan distribution. The English name, in contrast, reflects the species’ affinity for living around human habitations, something which has doubtless aided its recent expansion in range. Typically, after the discovery of a new colony, often in town centres, the population quickly expands. This, and the impact of global warming bodes well for their predicted colonisation of Spain.  Sightings in Morocco and Cadiz province from E-Bird By the early 2020s House Buntings had been sighted in Cadiz Province (Algeciras and Tarifa), Málaga Province (Nerja, Frigiliana & Fuengirola) and on Gibraltar (five records by 2023). Hence it was not entirely surprising when birds were found breeding in the urban centre of Algeciras in June 2023.  House Bunting distribution (adapted & updated from E-Bird) The House Bunting first appeared in Europe as recently as 2009 when one was discovered in Tarifa but the arrival of this African species in Spain wasn’t entirely unexpected. African birds (and insects) have been pushing north into Morocco and on to Iberia for many years. More recent examples of this trend include White-rumped and Little Swifts and Trumpeter Finch but, historically includes several other species that are now considered a part of Europe’s avifauna without a second thought (e.g. Red-rumped Swallow)  Map of climate zones in the western Mediterranean - note the similarities in climate between the southern Spain and North Africa Despite a range across North Africa, in Morocco, House Bunting had been largely limited to the south in the 1950s with breeding further north restricted to a few localities in the Atlas Mountains. However, since the 1960s, it had been known to be expanding northwards. When birds were found breeding in Tangier in 2006, the first known breeding of the species north of the Atlas Mountains, it was predicted it would soon colonise Iberia. Proof of breeding in Tétouan soon followed in 2010 and then Cueta in 2016. In 2017 it was found to be as common as House Sparrow further east in Algiers. With over 1,000km of coastline between Algiers and Tétouan, much of which is probably rarely explored by birders, it seems likely that the species is (or soon will be) breeding elsewhere along the North African littoral.  Planned survey Dec 2023 By the summer of 2024, at least 3 pairs of House Buntings bred successfully in Algeciras and there were at least 20 birds were present in the city. The exact number is thought to be greater and, hopefully, a survey in December 2024 (see left) will discover the true state of affairs. (I'll post the results on my blog as soon as they're available). When will it spread out of this small enclave? Whilst there is no way of being sure, I’d be mildly surprised if other colonies aren’t found elsewhere in 2025 and astonished if it isn’t a lot more widespread by the end of the decade. Anyone keen to find the species would be well advised to learn the song which can be listened to online here.
NB - I'm no fan of wandering around urban centres with a pair of binoculars dangling from my neck so, although the exact location of the colony is widely known, I haven't looked for them ... it helps that I saw so many in Morocco in 2019. I'm hoping that they'll to come to me!  Birding the Palomas Estuary My gift to insomniacs everywhere .... a chronological list of the topics (with links) covered in my blogs since 2011. (I originally intended to list them by topic but sorting them out and rearranging the information proved to be very tedious task). They mostly deal with birding sites in the province but some deal with ID, history, culture, travel tips and the odd item about myself. These blog entries include many photos of the sites described in my guide to birding in Cadiz Province. They should give readers a good 'feel' for the habitats, scenery, etc. of the area. However, some older blogs should be used with suitable caution as they may not reflect the current situation. Topics covered -
2011 February - February Birding Blues March - Terrace Temptations, Black-winged Kite, Thekla vs Crested Lark ID I, Llanos de Libar, Unknown Unknowns - Finding your own Hotspots, Bolonia & Sierra de la Plata, Laguna de Medina & Laguna de Cigarrera (Lagunas de Lebrija) April - Little Bustards in Cadiz Province May - Bald Ibis Reintroduction, & Laguna de Tollos June - Finding Olivaceous Warbler, & Little Bustards: an update July - Salinas de Santa Maria, Bloomin’ Spring September - 2.5 Cheers for Foundation Migres, Seeing Great Bustards in Andalucia (Osuna) Great Bustards in Andalucia October - Vulture Restaurants, Lagunas de Lantejuela December - Mesas de Asta Marsh 2012 January - In memoriam Susan Cantelo February - Molinos Valley (Alcala de los Gazules) Cabo de Trafalgar June - Along the Guadalquivir (Laguna de Venta La Senuela) July - Marismas de Barbate (inner marshes) December - Honey Buzzards over Alcala 2013 March - Lagunas de Puerto de Santa Maria, Laguna de Paja, Lantejuela revisited, & Bustards & Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Osuna) May - Laguna de Paja Revisited & Missing Lynx No Longer (Andujar) June - Birds from the Coast of Trafalgar (Tourist booklet), Birding Tarifa & Lagunas de Puerto de Santa Maria - update 2014 February - Lesser Kestrels, Adventus Marshes & Finding Marbled Teal March - Review: Helm Guide to Bird Identification, Birding (Rubbish) Tips & Butcher Birds – shrikes April - Review: Field Guide to the Birds of the Straits of Gibraltar May - Osuna & Lantejuela Revisited June - Art of Serendipity – Llanos de Libar, Paja, Bonanza pools, etc. & New Migres Centre at Punta Camorro July - Borderlands (History), Jimena de la Frontera (Lomas de Camara), Barbate update & Laguna de los Tollos August - Surf & Turf – Conil area (NB – in recent years track ‘d’ on the map has degraded badly & may be impassable) September - Tracks & potholes October - Updates & Discoveries - Pena Arpade (Alcala de Los Gazules), Jimena de la Frontera, Sierra Utrerera (Manilva), Punta Roche & Punta Camorro (Tarifa) 2015 March - Andalusian Half-foot (A History of Andalucian Hemipode in Spain), Slender-billed Gull: A Rosy Gull by any other name, Review: Birds of the Iberian Peninsula & Crested vs Crested Lark Revisited April - Almost Widdrington’s Magpie (The discovery of Azure-winged Magpie) May - Bald Ibis in Spain – Historical Context, Birding Cadiz – update to my guide & Looking for Little Bustards July - Laja de la Zarga (Bolonia) September - Montenmedio October - Cazalla - Access Improved (Tarifa) & Birding Senderos November - La Janda - Past, present & Possible Future & Review – Birding Calais 2016 November - La Janda - Past, present & Possible Future & Review – Birding Calais 2016 February - ID Pallid vs Common Swift, Review: Flight Identification of European Raptors (1st edition) & Updates Cazalla (Tarifa), Tarifa & Laguna de la Tollos March - Spain’s Newest Psittacines (Introduced parrots) April - Cazalla – new access road, ID Crested vs Thekla’s Lark revisited (again), Ojen Valley (closure to vehicles) & Aliens Amongst Us (Introduced Exotics) May - Review: Aves de Espana - (Note: now available in an English language version) & Reptiles & Amphibians August - ID: Are we missing Lesser Kestrels?, Canada de Marchantes (History), Lagunas de Lantejuela & Review: Britain’s Birds – the best photo guide yet September - Salarte Project (Bahai de Cadiz) October - Recommended Guides November - Getting there – air, rail, road & sea December - E-bird version of my guide 2017 January - Mysterious Mosquitero - Iberian Chiffchaff February - Crossbill Guide to Western Andalucía March - Marismas de Cetina (pre-opening), Birding Cadiz update & Review: Birds of Europe, North Africa & Middle East – Jiguet et al May - Ojen Valley - Permit details & Cadiz Wetlands September - Two site solution – Tarifa is not the only option 2018 June - Brief Updates - Cañada de Marchantes - Lagunas de Chiclana, La Janda, Trebujena , St Maria de Bartivas Saltpans, Barbate, Conil & Cazalla, E-bird version of my guide & Birding Bahai de Cadiz July - Three Days in Andalucia – guest blog by Julian Thomas August - Paradise Regained? A New Future for La Janda & Cañadas in Andalucia – cultural, social & history of Andalucian droveways September - Wildlife Guides – video & La Janda Revisited November - La Janda – a new chapter? December - In memoriam – Liz Cantelo 2019 January - Gemma’s Tribute March - Larking About in Morocco May - Barbate Marshes – Esteros de la Isleta de San Frisco June - Marismas de Cetina & Dehesa de las Yeguas (pre-opening of reserve), Mallorcan Interlude, Laguna Tercios (Lagunas de Puerto de Santa Maria) & Marisma Aletus (Bahai de Cadiz) July - Salinas de Tapa – guest blog by Nick Brown, Bits ‘n’ Bobs - Updates - La Janda, El Celemin – area recreativa, Punta Comorro (Tarifa), Laguna de Jeli & Laguna de Tollos & Further Updates - Molinos valley [Alcala de los Gazules], Along the Guadalquivir & Three cheers for Trebujena August - Pioneering British Ornithologists in Andalucia, Why don’t you come up and see me sometime? An invitation to birders & Barbate - Proposed new wetland (NB - this proposal not been implemented) October - Blistering Bushchats!, Good news for magical marismas – Guadalquivir, The Other Pinar Algaida (Puerto Real) & Cadiz Birding (September) – guest blog Hilary McBean 2020 March - Thank You – fund raising for Alzheimer’s Society June - Review: Britain’s Birds 2nd Edition July - ID: Short-toed Larks November - Review: Swarovski 10x42 NL binoculars & Forthcoming - Europe's Birds 2021 April - Review: Birding & Nature Trails in the Sierra Morena (4 volumes) May - Wildlife Aware Vineyards (Conil) & Biggest Squatters in Spain (La Janda) June - Flyway Birding Association & Trebujena booklet & video link October - Review: Europe’s Birds – photo-guide 2022 February - E-birding, Pinar del Rey & Junta de Dos Rios March - Parque Oromana (Seville) – A Convenient Site for Azure-winged Magpie, Updates (Laguna de Medina & Marisma de Cetina), La Janda Update, Humedal El Patano (Los Palacios), Punta Camorro & the Straits, Bonanza Area, Costa Ballena & Tajo de los Figueras (History) May - Egrets I’ve had a few .. (Laguna de Camino Colorado), Walking Routes - Valdienfierno, Picacho, Montera de Torero & Molinos Valley (Alcala), Sojourn in Seville - Humedal El Patano (Los Palacios), Laguna Mejorada (Los Palacios) & Parque Oromana (Alcala de Guadaira, Seville), Tale of three lagunas - Lagunas de Medina, Taraje & de Jeli (info on the new hide & boardwalks), Marismas de Cetina - details of the new reserve & Trebujena - Going ga-gaa (Pin-tailed Sandgrouse & other birds of the marismas) June - Humedal Cerro de Ciguenos (Los Palacios) & Bustards and Breakfasts – (Los Badalejos, Benalup) August – Review: Birdwatching Calendar for Cadiz – a useful booklet & El Aguila project – La Janda (partial) restoration September - Laguna de Torrox (Jerez) October - Guest blog – October Birding in Cadiz - David Tomlinson, Monte Propios - walking routes near Algar, El Berrueco (Medina Sidonia), Desembocadura de Rio San Pedro (Puerto Real), Birding Atlantis (Mesas de Asta & Trebujena), All at Sea – a pelagic trip from Cadiz & Cañada de Valcargado November - The Magic of Birding the Strait – link to video by Inglorious Bustards & Guest blog: Birding Bonanza & nearby – cruise ship birding - Mike Pennington 2023 February - Birding the Guadalquivir, Brief Updates - Osuna, Ballena, La Janda,Lagunas de Lebrija, Humedal el Patano, Marismas de Casablanca, Los Badalejos, Portal - White Stork Colony (Jerez), Puntas Secreta & Carnero (Algeciras) & Palmones & Tour of Lagunas - Lagunas de Lantejuela [Seville], Lagunas de Puerto de Santa Maria,Lagunas de Espera, Lagunas de Lebrija, Laguna de Tollos & Laguna de Medina May - Finding Iberian Chiffchaff – two quick stops off the A381, Area Recreativa Los Tornos – birds & history (Fascinas) & Finding Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Trebujena) 2024 March - Restoration of the Marismas de Trebujena, Marismas de Trebujena, Marismas de Henares & Pinar de Algaida & Diversion into Aragon: Finding Dupont’s Lark May - Refugio de Libar (Montejaque) & Return of the Rufous Bushchat June - Ospreys in Cadiz Province October - A Walk around the new Trebujena Reserve, El Cabrito to El Cuarton, One Good Tern ... tips to find Lesser Crested Tern & Chipiona Pelagic  Leaving Chipiona at dawn ... 'Pelagic' birding jaunts have been popular amongst UK birders for decades but they're a rather more recent phenomenon in south-west Spain, perhaps surprisingly so. However, they're now a regular feature of autumn birding there thanks to a handful of tour companies. In fact, they're so popular with birders and "toggers" that it's sometimes difficult to book a berth on one. I finally managed to book on a trip out of Cadiz with Manuel Morales (https://www.birdingtarifa.es/) in autumn 2022 which didn't disappoint (see here). In 2023, I joined Javi Elorriaga (Birding the Strait - Birding the Strait) for a trip out of Chipiona (see here) which, as is the nature of these trips, was less successful than I'd hoped seeing a disappointing range of species. However, I was keen to repeat the experience this autumn. Unfortunately, despite inquiring in good time, all the trips during my stay by the two companies above and a third company (https://ingloriousbustards.com) were either already fully booked or took place a few days too early or too late. Fortunately, however, Manuel Barcena (https://oxyura.es) decided to run an additional trip out from Chipiona on Saturday, September 21st. Since Chipiona is an hour's drive from Alcala de los Gazules and it was an early start, I opted to book an overnight stay (https://hostal-andalucia.com) in the town. This also meant I had a whole day to explore various sites along the Gudalaquivir (see my earlier posts here and here). That evening I ate at Bar La Casa Vieja, an attractive little bar I'd seen last year (but only after I'd had a mediocre meal elsewhere). My foodie instincts proved to be spot on as the tapas were top-notch - amongst the best I've had in Spain - highly recommended.  Bar La Casa Vieja And so to the pelagic ...  On my two previous jaunts, my companions came from a variety of countries and, as is so often the case in birding, the lingua franca was English. So, although I knew Manuel Barcena's command of English wasn't as good as the other two guides, I idly neglected to brush up on the Spanish seabird names. A big mistake! This time around everyone on the boat was Spanish so all the birds were (understandably) called in that language. My recollection that Alcatraz meant Gannet didn't get me very far! As a result, when a shout went up for something good I had no 'search image' to help me scan for whatever was causing the fuss. It didn't help either that some birds causing excitement (e.g. Great Skua & Great Black-backed Gull) were of relatively little interest to me.  Fortunately, it didn't take much nous to work out that Paíño de Wilson meant Wilson's Petrel! None of the petrels came particularly close and they failed to linger around the 'chum' that was decanted into the boat's wake but I was pleased to be able to discern, without resorting to photographic evidence, that the feet of the first paíño extended beyond the tail so confirming its identity. Unfortunately, none of the petrels opted to patter around the chum at close range like they're supposed to do. In all, I think I had nine petrels of which I thought 2, possibly three, were Wilson's and the rest Storm Petrels (Paíño Europeo) but most went by fairly quickly and distantly rendering certain ID difficult given my relative inexperience with the family.  Part of a larger raft of "Cory's" Shearwaters My next learning curve was grasping that cries of "Pardela!" meant a shearwater was cruising past. Both Scopoli's and Cory's are loosely called Pardela Cencienta in Spanish. It is the addition of a third word that distinguishes the two species - Mediterránea for Scopoli's and Canaria for Cory's. For much of the trip we were surrounded by Cory's Shearwaters (in senso lato) either flying past, circling the boat or sitting on the sea. Distinguishing between 'proper' Cory's and Scopoli's whilst bouncing around at sea is tricky even in the relatively good conditions we enjoyed. Judging the precise pattern of the underwing - the only certain way to clinch ID - isn't easy to do on a fast moving bird. That said some birds appeared to show the white "tongues" on the primaries typical of Scopoli's and others the darker wingtips of Cory's. I even managed to get a couple of photos with my bridge camera that appear to confirm that both species were present (see photos). I also tried hard to convince myself that some of the birds resting on the sea had the marginally heavier bills of Cory's ... Happily, the Spanish name for Balearic Shearwater, Padela Balear, scarcely needed translation. Less happily, none of Balearic Shearwaters were as co-operative as their relatives but preferred to shoot off if disturbed and kept going at a great rate of knots! I had little time to consider what the words "Pardela Sombria" meant before a Sooty Shearwater appeared at very close range. However, I panicked a little when the call went up "Pardela Capirotada!" but happily the Great Shearwater (for such it was) was also too close to miss. The Sooty Shearwater was far closer than any I'd seen before and the Great Shearwater was my first for over 50 years when I saw them from the Scillonian back in 1972! I always struggle to estimate the number of birds seen on pelagic jaunts. I remember that in 2023 a strangely marked partially leucistic gull appeared and disappeared at random intervals, which had it been a distinct species, could have been counted 4-5 times! Accordingly, I generally tend to err on the side of caution when estimating numbers. The 'official' eBird tally was as follows: 10 Ruddy Turnstone 2 Arctic Skua 6 Great Skua 2 Audouin's Gull 2 Mediterranean Gull X Yellow-legged Gull 18 Lesser Black-backed Gull 9 Black Tern 2 Common Tern 7 Sandwich Tern 2 Wilson's Storm-Petrel 5 European Storm-Petrel 87 Cory's/Scopoli's Shearwater 3 Great Shearwater 2 Sooty Shearwater 26 Balearic Shearwater 46 Northern Gannet 3 Little Egret 1 Osprey Although the totals for Balearic and Cory's/Scopoli's Shearwaters seem broadly correct to me, I feel that the Great and Sooty Shearwater sightings may have referred to single birds (although given the linguistic confusion I may have missed some sightings). Similarly, I'm inclined to think the Arctic Skua may have involved only one bird and that there may have been only 3 Great Skuas hanging around looking for an easy lunch. Conversely, the combined total of 7 petrel sp. seems on the low side and I think that I had at least 9 birds. The Osprey was resting on a structure well out to sea was a great addition to the day's tally and for once I knew the Spanish name - Aguila pescadora. English is almost alone in having an 'official' name for this species that doesn't refer to its piscatorial diet. This solecism is thanks to 16th century naturalist, William Turner, who, instead of using the sensible names Fish or Mullet Hawk, gave the bird its English monicker, Osprey (via an uncertain translation of Pliny's name, Ossifrage, for Bearded Vulture). I also had 6 Little Swifts chasing one another as we left the harbour which didn't feature on the list.  Despite the excellent views of shearwaters and fleeting views of passing petrels neither were the highlight of the day. That came when we were surrounded for several minutes by a pod of c100 Common Dolphins. I was too awe struck as they raced beside and under the boat to think of taking any photos until most of them had disappeared! Fortunately, Alfonso Roldán Losada had a much more professional approach (see photo)! A magical experience.
 A selection of terns and a Slender-billed Gull at Mojiyto/La Reyerta Sept 2024 Although Lesser Crested Terns regularly occur elsewhere in Spain and, to a more limited extent, elsewhere in Europe, there's no denying the fact that they are found in Cadiz Province with greater regularity and predictability than anywhere else on the continent. Over time they have morphed from an occasional rarity into a species that can be found in any month and, given a little effort, may be seen reliably during autumn. This almost certainly reflects increased observer awareness as much as any real change in status or distribution. The species was first recorded in the area in the 19th century and as recently as a couple of decades ago it was considered an accidental. Garcia & de Juana (Birds of the Iberian Peninsula 2015) observe that between 2006-2010 there were only 23 accepted records but that, given the thousands of breeding birds in Libya, it's surprising more hadn't been recorded. There are now probably as many reports (but not necessarily as many individual birds) per annum.  Lesser Crested Tern (Photo credit - Ricky Owen)  Differences in bill shape/colour are obvious in photos but not always so easy to judge in the field! Ricky Owen's superb photo of Lesser Crested Tern (reproduced above with his kind permission) shows the difference between this and Elegant Tern in bill shape and structure (note that to aid comparison I've reversed his original image). Other distinctions include a a more uniformly orange bill, grey (not white) rump and darker grey upperparts (not always obvious without direct comparison) in Lesser Crested. There should be no confusion with the larger Caspian Tern but potential vagrants like Royal Tern and West African Crested Tern (a clumsy name for what was once considered a race of Royal) could turn up and cause confusion.  eBird generated Bar Graph of Lesser Crested Tern frequency in Cadiz Province 2014-24  10 years of Lesser Crested Tern sightings from eBird The map above - representing ten years of observations on e-Bird - shows that whilst Lesser Crested Tern can be seen almost anywhere along the coast of Cadiz Province several 'hotspots stand out as the places to look for this species (see below).  Roseate Tern Mojito/Reyerta Sept. 2024 The regularity with which Lesser Crested Tern appears in the province has undoubtedly encouraged birders to take a closer look at flocks of roosting terns here. I've listed the main sites where this species can often found below but I think Playa de Mojito/La Reyerta has a good claim to be the best of them all (see below). Consequently, it's not surprising that other scarcities and rarities have been discovered in recent years. Amongst the former is Roseate Tern which I photographed at La Reyerta (near Chipiona) this September. Fortunately, birders were already on site so I didn't have to search for the bird which can easily get lost amongst the hundreds of terns of six or more species regularly present in the autumn. I never think of checking for Arctic Terns here. They're rare birds in the Mediterranean but turn up on the Atlantic coast of Andalucia in very small numbers. E-bird has no records form La Reyerta/Motijo despite the concentration of terns but there are a handful of records from Chipiona and pelagics out from there. Also present, but somewhat more obvious, was my target bird, Elegant Tern. I saw this species at Desembocadura del Río San Pedro in 2022 but never got the extended close views that I wanted. Happily the bird this year was far more co-operative. The long tapering orange-based bill shading into a yellowish tip made it relatively easy to pick out although it could still get 'lost' amongst the tightly packed of Sandwich Terns. Also present on that day were Caspian, Little, Black and Common Terns but some lucky birders a few days earlier had a Lesser Crested conveniently next to the Elegant Tern. Despite it's normal range being restricted to the Pacific coast of the Americas and being a rarity on the Atlantic seaboard, Elegant Tern has been turning up regularly in Spain since the early 2000s. Remarkably, from 2009 onwards a small number have even bred at l'Albufera de Valencia (sometimes pairing with Sandwich Terns). This was so unexpected that it wasn't until genetic sampling was carried out that their status was confirmed. It is thought that this extraordinary development is linked to overfishing, El Niño events and warming seas. However, the numbers are currently small so, unlike Lesser Crested Tern, Elegant Tern is likely to remain a rare bird in Cadiz Province with records largely restricted to August and September (see below)  Elegant Tern at Mojito/Reyerta September 2024  eBird generated Bar Graph of Elegant Tern frequency in Cadiz Province 2014-24 Top Sites for seeing Lesser Crested Tern:  1 - Mojito/Reyerta (Chipiona) - the c1km stretch of coast between La Reyerta and Punta de Motijo attracts large numbers of terns who use the area to rest at low tide. Lesser Crested Tern is a regular visitor (esp. mid-August-September) here amongst the many Sandwich Terns. Other terns include Caspian, Common, Black, Little and, occasionally, Roseate Tern. A good variety of waders (Kentish Plover, etc) are present and it's also good site to catch up with Slender-billed Gull. Avoid high tide and sunny weekends when the beach can be busy. When the tide is out large numbers of terns and gulls rest along the shoreline and can be approached without disturbing them if you use sensible caution (easier when using a 'scope). As a result, in my experience, this is by far the best site for obtaining good views (and photos) of the target species. Visiting on a low, but rising tide (1-2 hours before high tide), has the advantage that the birds are gently pushed towards an observer rather than away from them. As the low tide mark can be a a couple of hundred metres beyond the beach bring flip-flops or crocs to paddle across the mudflats and a small towel to dry your feet afterwards. There are excellent 'chiringuitos' on the beach at La Reyerta and Motijo. Note the fascinating ancient corrales de pesca (fish traps) at Motijo. Nearby: - a visit here can be combined with an early morning search for Rufous Bushchat and/or Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, White-headed & Marbled Ducks to the east or Little Swift in nearby Chipiona. Coastal scrub near Chipiona can be excellent for migrants Access: La Reyerta is signposted off the first roundabout on the A 480 (i.e. where it ceases to be an 'Autovia'). Punta de Mojito is most easily reached by following prominent signs along the Camino de la Reyerta to Venta Aurelio from which it is 450m along a narrow lane to the point and the sea.  Birders watching terns at Mojito/Reyerta - remember your flip-flops! 2 - Desembocadura del Río San Pedro - this site is best checked an hour or two before high tide as large numbers of terns and gulls are displaced from the extensive sandbanks to the west gradually move east with the tide to finally rest on the narrow beach at the tip of the Los Toruños peninsular (Punta de los Saboneses) Although you may be lucky and find the birds (briefly) resting on the nearside of Rio San Pedro, as the river is 100m wide at this point a 'scope is vital. This site has a similar range of species as Chipiona including regular reports of Lesser Crested and a number of records of Elegant Tern. In my experience, it's less good for waders and Slender-billed Gull (but better for Mediterranean) than Chipiona. Nearby - the scrubby vegetation and parks here can be excellent for passerine migrants (e.g. flycatchers, warblers, etc). (Note: it is possible to walk down the Los Toruños peninsular to Punta de los Saboneses but it's a 8-10km roundtrip). Access: the Barrida de Rio San Pedro is signposted off the CA 35 as you approach the impressive new(ish) suspension bridge to Cadiz. the riverfront here has plenty of parking (and some good ventas) along Calle Brasil.  Scanning the distant sand bars for terns at Desembocadura (mouth) of the Rio San Pedro Sept 2022 3 - Tarifa: Playa de las Lances, Playa de la Caleta & Isla de las Palomas - the Tarifa area has long been widely recognised as the place to look for Lesser Crested Terns. Like the two previous sites, good numbers of gulls and terns rest on the wide sandy beach at Playa de las Lances (3a) to the north of the town. Waders are less numerous, less varied and more distant here than at Mojito but I've found it a better location for seeing Audouin's Gull. (but less favourable for Slender-billed Gull). Despite it being designated as a nature reserve, birds are often disturbed by dog walkers, kite surfers and horse riders. Accordingly, they can be rather distant so a 'scope is vital here. A hide here was constructed to overlook a tidal pool but the pool is a shifting feature. Migrating raptors & storks often pass low overhead here. I've never tried looking at Playa de la Caleta (immediately east of the harbour) or from the harbour wall (Punta de Santo) (3b) but others have done so with success albeit of flying birds only. I've not visited Isla de las Palomas either as it is accessed only by permit. Nearby - the rough pasture nearby can attract migrants like Tawny Pipit, the coastal pines further up the coast is good for passerine migrants (e.g. flycatchers, redstarts, etc) and raptor migration points are only a few km away. Access - there are two options for Playa las Lances: first park near the football ground on the edge of Tarifa take the boardwalk or park near to the Cepsa petrol station just north of Tarifa and (carefully) cross the N 340 and walk to the hide (700m). You can easily walk to Playa de la Caleta from the town centre.  The hide at the northern end of the Playa de los Lances 4 - Palmones - unlike the previous sites, Palmones has less extensive sandbanks and so doesn't attract so many roosting gulls and terns. However, it has a good record for turning up Lesser Crested Terns so can't be omitted (although this may be more to do with the site being regularly watched and the presence of several long-staying individuals here). The number of waders is relatively limited but you have a good chance of Osprey here. Iconic views across to Gibraltar. It's also a good place for waiting for friends arriving via Gibraltar airport (25 mins) Nearby - further views of the estuary can be obtained on the other side of the river at the Observatorio de El Torrejón and on the beach at Rinconcillo. To be honest, as this means driving through the suburbs of Algeciras I've rarely bothered! Access: - Palmones is easily reached by following signs off the A 7 (look out for the large Carrefour supermarket)  Scanning (successfully) for Lesser Crested Tern at Palmones The most convenient 'hotspot' to look for rare terns for many people will be the two playas at Tarifa. These sites nearest to the famous raptor watchpoints of Cazalla and Punta Camorro. Indeed, for those who walk up to the latter site from the town, Playa de la Caleta is en route. Also, as this area is well frequented by birders, news of their presence here is often disseminated more widely and promptly than elsewhere. However, despite being over 1 hr 30 mins from Tarifa (where most birders stay), I recommend visiting Mojito/Reyerta to look for rare terns. You'll not only get better views of any terns, gulls and waders present but you'll also be in a good position to make a detour to pick up species you'll struggle to find elsewhere (including Little Swift, Rufous Bushchat, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, etc.) Just remember to check the tides!
Despite underperforming in this company, the Marismas de Barbate (esp. the nearby river mouth) and Conil (despite often being disturbed by holidaymakers) should also be worth a try.  I must confess that I've rarely visited El Cabrito and when I have it's sometimes been largely to reverse direction on the N-340. It certainly seems to be the 'Cinderella' of watchpoints compared to the popular sites closer to Tarifa or Algeciras. My reluctance has largely been due to the fact that the watchpoint is now surrounded by a large windfarm. However, in spring 2024 I turned off the road here and drove a kilometre or so up the track and, after looking on Google wondered how far it was possible to drive along this surprisingly good track. I was then short of time so went no further but exploring this neglected site was a priority this autumn. I checked it out twice, first driving only c2 km but later continuing up to the Puerto de la Ahumada and then down to El Cuarton. The track soon enters a low wind-blasted woodland that must surely have Bonelli's Warbler and Iberian Chiffchaff in spring. On neither day was it particularly good for raptor migration with overcast rain-threatening skies on the first visit and very strong winds on the second but I saw Marsh Harrier, Short-toed & Booted Eagles, Egyptian and Griffon Vultures. The latter should be examined closely as Ruppell's Vulture has been seen here. Bearing right at the fork after c2km, the track continues in excellent condition until after another c1km you reach a charming Vivienda Rural (La Villa Verde). After this point the track degenerates into a badly rutted obstacle course that requires very careful driving. The extra effort is worth it, though, as you soon arrive at the Puerto de la Ahumada (464m). If you don't want to risk the drive along this poor section of track, there's plenty of parking space by the Vivienda Rural and it's only c700 metres to walk up to the puerto (pass). This is another site I've intended to check out for several years. The pass is overlooked by higher peaks (529m & 629m) and the dominant habitat is open rocky heathland which, I'm told, holds Dartford Warbler. There's a spider's web of tracks here and, in theory at least, it's possible to drive all the way through to the CA 9210 (the Sanctuario road). The area would certainly be worth exploring on foot (or bicycle) and it would be interesting to watch raptor migration from here. Not wishing to risk the poor track again and encouraged by other cars being parked up at the pass, I took the paved military road down to El Cuarton. I did so with some trepidation as I knew the entrance to this road is gated (although I'm not sure if it's actually locked). Happily, I found the barrier open and drove on down to the N 340. One source suggests that this route is open to vehicular traffic but other sources suggest access is restricted. You can walk the 1.6 km (and 120m increase in elevation) up to the pass from El Cuarton but I've always been daunted by the scorching heat when I've looked previously. If considering trying this route it would be wise to check if the gate is open first or do so in the reverse direction. Whilst this is probably doesn't rate as a major 'hotspot', it makes a pleasant change from the well-visited coastal observatories and offers the chance of exploring under-watched areas.  The map of the reserve on the noticeboard omits the distant lagunas (d) to the south west (which I've added after checking the rough outline of the excavations on GoogleEarth). I have been following the development of this new reserve closely for several years so I was very pleased to find that it's now open to the public. Perhaps I was over-optimistic, but I had hoped that by autumn the lagunas would have matured a little with evidence of plant life around its margins and even that there would be evidence that the xerophytic vegetation in the dry areas would be invading the disturbed ground. Disappointingly, both the lagunas overlooked by the two miradors (Lucio de Gabela Honda & Lucio de Espinete) were almost entirely lifeless with no more than a couple of Black-winged Stilts, a handful of Spoonbills, a few Little Egrets and a few more Grey Herons). The margins of the lagunas appeared to be entirely lifeless with no vegetation of insect activity. Hopefully, things will improve by next spring ... I parked at the main car park (b) and walked the route to the track along the river (a) but returned the way I'd arrived as the light in this direction was much better for photography in the morning. (NB if arriving from Trebujena, as recommended, then (b) is the first place you can stop and access the site) Otherwise, a walk along the track back to your car would make this a pleasant circular walk The tower (Lucio de Gabela Honda) afforded good views across the distant Marismas de Terebujena and the northern part of the wetland but to the south-west much of the laguna remained hidden from view. Perhaps a hide could be slotted in where a track (c) runs alongside this area. The whole route to Lucio de Gabela Honda is rather exposed to the sun and any observer to the birds but at least the mirador offers some shade. Armed with a 'scope it might be worth scanning for the elusive Pin-tailed Sandgrouse from here. Where there was some vegetation several small groups of larks (totalling c50 birds) flew up but, other than two Calandra Larks, were in view so briefly and dived into cover so promptly that it was impossible to identify them to species level. The walk to Mirador Lucio de Espinete is a little shorter but you're obliged to return by the way you came. As noted above this laguna was also pretty lifeless although it held the bulk of the Spoonbills and, whilst I was scanning from the mirador, I had two Ospreys and a Caspian Tern passing along the river. Frustratingly, in the distance I could see that the pools to the south held good numbers of birds (c200 Flamingos, a few Glossy Ibis, unidentifiable small waders and a few ducks. If access along the track here (c) is possible then these pools would be an excellent location for a couple of hides (if suitable screening could be arranged). In summary, to reach this reserve's potential as a birding hotspot it needs to improve access, provide more hides (and screening) and above all time must be allowed for it to mature. The latter also applies if its primary role is to provide habitat for the target species here (Marbled Duck amongst others).
 Osprey - breeding site on the Embalse de Barbate April 2024 In recent years Ospreys have increased both as breeding birds and a wintering species in Cadiz Province. Their recolonisation as a breeding species was assisted by both a successful introduction programme and the proliferation of reservoirs (embalses) in recent decades. In 2009 Liz and I were fortunate to be shown the site where young birds were being 'hacked' into the wild by our good friend Luis-Mi Garrido Padillo.  Luis-Mi putting out food for Ospreys - Embalse de Barbate 2009 Breeding Ospreys are now easy to see on many reservoirs in the province and are now a familiar sight on coastal wetlands on passage and in winter. The results of the most recent survey of wintering Ospreys in Iberia have just been published. It found that just over 40% of Iberia's wintering Ospreys were found in Andalucia (and another 40% in Portugal) and, of these, the majority were found in Cadiz Province. Full details of this survey (in English and Spanish) can be found here.  |
About me ...Hi I'm John Cantelo. I've been birding seriously since the 1960s when I met up with some like minded folks (all of us are still birding!) at Taunton's School in Southampton. I have lived in Kent , where I taught History and Sociology, since the late 1970s. I've served on the committees of both my local RSPB group and the county ornithological society (KOS). I also worked as a part-time field teacher for the RSPB at Dungeness. Having retired I now spend as much time as possible in Alcala de los Gazules in SW Spain. When I'm not birding I edit books for the Crossbill Guides series. 
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