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Marisma de Casablanca

26/6/2026

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The marshes in prime condition from the CA 3130
Keen young Jerezano birder, Bruno Asencio Sevillano, kindly made a detailed comment about the little known and neglected Marismas de Casablanca on an earlier post (May 2025).  As this may be missed, I've reposted it here with a couple of maps and photos to illustrate the site.

​In the past, I've seen hundreds of Crane here, even more White Storks, Short-eared Owl, Hen Harrier, large numbers of waterfowl and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (once from the train!). 
I've only once explored the Cañada Ancha that Bruno mentions in his post, seeing little, but mine was a very brief  visit and I always intended to go back earlier in the day when it would be less hot.  I still haven't done so yet! .  This whole area would be a regular haunt if it wasn't for the fact that there are several similarly good sites much closer to my base in Alcala de los Gazules 
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The CA 0606 is a no more than a dirt track so some caution may be required to drive all the way to the bridge
Bruno wrote as follows:
I have accessed the Casablanca marshes from Jerez following the CA-3103 (also accessed through the NIV). The drive follows some expansive cereal fields and some unploughed ones which have harriers (breeding Montagu's in summer, Hen in winter) and many partridges (probably quail as well). Some Pin-tailed Sandgrouse and Little Bustards also remain around the wider area between Jerez and Lebrija but they are essentially impossible to find (I'd try walking Cañada Ancha* that links up Mesas de Asta to the road if I wanted to make an effort to find them), and considering how many olives are being planed alongside the Jerez-Trebujena road their future is probably not so bright.                                                          * The Cañada Ancha is 7.8 km south of the junction of the CA 3130 and CA 0606
PictureLocation of the Cañada Ancha

Picture
Views of the Cañada Ancha (from Google Streetview)
​You then have to follow the CA-0606 ... (which is no more than a narrow gravel track, but in decent condition) until you find a small canal with a tiny bridge. (c3 km JC) Before you arrive you'll drive down a big hill which will reveal views of a part of the marsh not really properly visible from the CA-3013 (and where, in my experience, most of the birds were). There's also a private track to the right of the "road" with a row of pine trees which are probably worth checking as there's no other trees in the vicinity (I had a pair of Black-winged Kites here and saw owl pellets). I advise you to stop here and check the marsh from this area, as even if it is far away the birds won't get scared and you have good scope views of loads of the marsh from the elevated hill. My Feb 2 visit got me, waterfowl wise, fair numbers of Mallard (~50), Shoveler (~70), Shelduck (~50), Red-crested Pochard (~40) plus a few Gadwalls, Coots, Common Pochards and one Teal. Although I didn't have many waders (mostly just Avocets and Stilts) the area has good potential for them.
From the bridge onwards the track quickly deteriorates (in early February was a muddy undrivable mess) but theoretically continues rightward across the flooded area (although from the satellite it seems it's completely degraded), or alternatively, next to the train tracks until reaching the silo next to the CA-3103. Because of this, I just walked the path until reaching the flooded area. From here I saw more birds (what I mentioned before plus some Snipe, Bluethroat, etc) but they were incredibly weary: ducks flew away when I was a good 500m away- so maybe it's best to observe them from far away.

The area visible from the CA-3103 didn't have nearly as many birds, just Avocets, Lapwings, herons and egrets (and around 100 Flamingos) on a different day)

In general a good place in winter and early spring, I've seen reports of flocks of hundreds of Golden Plovers in the area, and many Cranes winter there as well.
​
Thanks again, Bruno, for your useful post. 
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Blog Topics - an updated list

23/6/2026

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For a list of the topics of blog posts before October 2024 see here 

2024
December
 Canuto de La Utrera - M1

2025 
February 
 "Long-legged" Buzzard on La Janda


March
March 2025 - Updates (Los Alamos Track, Grazalema, Lagunas de Camino Colorado  Goodbye, Los Badalejos and 
Osuna & Lagunas de Lebrija) 
Rain in Spain, - Jardin Botanico El  Aljibe & Vistors' Centre
Alcala de los Gazules, 
Laguna de Tarelo & Marisma de Henares

Haza de la Torre, Mesas de Asta  

May 
Update 1 Spring 2025 - Laguna de los Tollos
Spring Update 2 - Water, water everywhere!  Lagunas Update

July 
La Janda's Future - an important meeting

September
September - Autumn 2025 Update 1 - Lagunas de Medina & de Jeli
Autumn 2025 Update 2 - Trebujena - Bonanza
Autumn 2025 Update 3 - concerns about La Janda


October 
Autumn 2025 Update 4 - all at sea (again)

December 

 Inventario de Humedales de Andalucía - Cadiz


2026 
February -
Water, water everywhere - Feb. 2026 Updates 3 – Adventus,


March
La Janda - access March 2026
A new reserve & a puzzle solved - Reserva San Gaspar
Birding the Canaries

May
Birding Cadiz April-May 2026 - Part I

Birding Cadiz April-May 2026 - Part II
Birding Cadiz April-May 2026 - Part III - Sundry Updates
Laguna de Ruiz Sanchez (Ecija/Lantejuela)
The Decline of European Roller
History 
Casa de la Memoria La Sauceda - a historical diversion
​Corsica
Playing away - Corsican Catch-up

Corsican Nuthatch: A short history

June
Laguna de Ruiz Sanchez (Ecija/Lantejuela)

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Laguna de Ruiz Sanchez (Ecija/Lantejuela)

20/6/2026

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Picture
At c350 hectares  Laguna de Ruiz Sanchez is, in theory, the largest of the Lagunas de Lantejuela complex and the second largest in Andalucia (a claim also sometimes made for  Laguna de los Tollos). However, being nowhere very deep it often dries up entirely becoming, at best, no more than a damp hollow.  I first happened across it in 2013 when it shimmered tantalisingly in the distance (see photo).  I managed to get a little closer in 2014, but turned back because the track was very rough and I was then much less confident about using farm tracks. On a subsequent visit it was dry and, with evidence of continuing drainage work along the A 351, I assumed that is how it would remain so never investigated further until recently. .

The history of the ownership of the site is interesting.  Originally in public ownership, in 1967 it was sold to a private buyer  who planned to drain it and convert it for  agricultural use. From above the laguna has a leaf-like shape and the drainage channels dug at that time to drain it further accentuate this resemblance. However, the plan failed as it was soon discovered that the salinity of the depression made it unsuitable for farming so the laguna again became public property in 2006.  Work costing €435,000 was carried out to divert streams and block channels to restore the laguna.

In 2010 the local press announced that the road to to the lagoon would be improved and a perimeter path, hides ("observatorios"), a visitors' centre and car park  provided. There was also talk of making it a eco-tourism hub and attracting visitors.  None of this infrastructure, other than work on the track, appears to have happened in the years that immediately followed.   By 2018 the track was in such a poor condition that  €80,000 worth of repairs were needed. In February 2024, a further €576,000 was earmarked to improve this site (and nearby Laguna de Ballesteras). This included improving 5.8 km of tracks, blocking drains  and diverting a stream (Arroyo Gallapé) to maintain water levels.

No visitors' centre has been built as yet, but it seems that the latest tranche of money has resulted in one (possibly two) of the long promised "observatarios"  being constructed, not that you'd know it from available 'official' sources online! The only reason I know this is the case is because there are photos of it on ebird (see here)! Despite looking at several websites purporting to inform visitors of local attractions, even those that mention the laguna don't give any directions regarding how to reach the site or what's there when you arrive.  Nor are there any signposts to the site off the main road which is confusing as you can't even see the laguna from the start of the track.  As so often in Andalucia, fine intentions seem to struggle to flower into actual reality!  
Checking on Google Earth reveals that a hide has been constructed c6.5 km from the main road and linked to the track by a 80m walkway. Less certainly, there seems to be a small building overlooking the laguna after c1.5 km (see photos). Photos on ebird (see here) show an extensive shallow lake filling most of the basin which held water until the end of this May 2026 at least. The number of species recorded on ebird, 125, is also encouraging. Over recent years, again according to  ebird, the site has hosted Flamingo, (max. c2000), Cranes (max 220),  Black-necked Grebe (max, 80), Shoveler (max 1,200), a good variety of other ducks (including Pintail, Garganey, Ferruginous and Marbled Duck), both Whiskered and Gull-billed Terns and a good range of waders (including all three small plovers). All the expected raptors of this area (including Black-winged Kite) have put in an appearance too but so too has Pallid Harrier. "Steppe species" such as Stone-curlew, Little Bustard, Black-bellied Sandgrouse  and Greater Short-toed Lark have also been recorded.  These figures need to be seen in the context of relatively few visits recorded on  ebird  - fewer than a dozen up to 2024, only 8 in 2025 and 9 so far in 2026.  (disregarding duplicate lists). Leaving aside the (re)purchase price, €1 million has been spent on this site over the past twenty years to no great effect, it seems, until recently.  It is difficult to be sure to what extent the recent improvements in the birdlife at this site reflect the money spent or are simply the result of two exceptionally wet winters. Either way, this little known site has tremendous potential and in a small way visiting the site may encourage the local authorities to persevere with improvements. 
To access this site take the A 351 north from Osuna and turn right onto a dirt track at km 14 (c3 km after the junction with the SE 708 and just after roadside crash barriers).  The track takes you to the edge of the laguna after c1.5 km (where, looking at GoogleMaps, there may be an a second "observatorio"). From here follow the track for another c3.5 km before turning left and back along the laguna's edge to reach the "observatorio" after c1.5 km. (If the track proves difficult, after 2.5 km  you may be able to cut through the olive groves on foot for 600m to reach the hide. I hope to visit the area in early 2027 when I will update my notes more thoroughly. ​
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The Decline of European Roller

8/6/2026

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The Sociedad Gaditana de Historia Natural (SGHN - Cadiz Natural History Society) has just posted a worrying article about the decline of Rollers in Jaén and the adjacent boundary with Córdoba.  Naturally, it's in Spanish but there's an English abstract which reads as follows: 

In this work the results of the population monitoring of the European Roller (Coracias garrulus) in the province of Jaén and the adjacent boundary with Córdoba, including the municipalities of Baena and Valenzuela, are presented for the period 2004–2025. Monitoring was based on direct censuses of breeding pairs conducted across 18 municipalities and 55 known breeding territories. The maximum number of pairs recorded during the study period was 65, declining to only 16 pairs according to the comprehensive census conducted in 2024, distributed across 10 active territories. This represents a decline of 75.38% in breeding pairs and 81.8% in territories. Olive groves (84.5%) and cereal crops (15.5%) constitute the dominant habitats surrounding breeding territories and cavities in rural buildings and farmhouses represent the primary nesting site (>85%). The main identified threat factors include the excessive use of phytosanitary products, the removal of trees and historic rural buildings, and the intensification of olive cultivation. These results highlight the urgent need to implement active conservation measures, including the installation and maintenance of nest boxes and the regulation of agrochemical use within the species’ foraging areas.  For the full report see here 
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Distribution of all known pairs of European roller in the province of Jaén and border with Córdoba between 2004 and 2025. The red dots correspond to the census carried out in 2024 and, therefore, to the current population, while the green dots correspond to the known historical distribution
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Corsican Nuthatch: A short history

31/5/2026

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Discovery 
PictureJ G Keulemans' fine illustration of Corsican Nuthatch in Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London (1884)
Corsican Nuthatch is such a delightful little bird, no bigger than a Blue Tit, and behaving very much like one of that family, that I decided to dig into the story of its discovery and then its tangled taxonomy. It was discovered surprisingly late by English ornithologist John Whitehead in June 1883. (Although Italian biologist Enrico Giglioli [1845-1909] claimed in 1890 that he saw one in September 1877, at Porte Alla Leccia, but did not collect it  believing it; to be a European Nuthatch: a classic case of the Victorian collector's adage "What's hit's history, what's missed's mystery").

As noted, the 1880s seems very late for such a distinctive and delightful little nuthatch to have evaded detection by European scientists and collectors. It remains, I think, the last breeding European species of bird to have been described by scientists. Most of the apparently novel species that now crowd our field guides were described earlier,  but raised (or in many cases returned) to full species status relatively recently. One example of this is Moltoni's Warbler, which many tend to think of a 'new' species despite it being described by Dutch ornithologist Coenraad Temminck long ago in 1820.

Things might have been different if the renown 19th century ornithologist Charles Lucien Bonaparte [1803 - 1857] had spent more time in, Corsica, the birthplace of his father and famous uncle. I wonder whether the extraordinary speed with which Richard Bowdler Sharpe
[1847 – 1909]. ornithological curator at the British Museum, described the species had anything to do with the habitual rivalry between the two great colonial powers.  What better way to put one over on the French than a British scientist describing a new species from their own back yard?! Bowdler Sharpe first saw Whitehead's specimen in October 1883, announced its discovery in April 1884 (see here)  and formally described it in print, complete with a fine illustration by J G Keulemans,  in  June 1884 when he named it Sitta whiteheadi in honour of its finder (Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London June 1884 - see here)

PictureJ G Keulemans' executed this second charming illustration of Corsican Nuthatch for Whitehead's account in Ibis in 1885
Perhaps, though, despite being the era of pen-and-ink and the penny post, they just did things quicker back then as Whitehead's description of his momentous discovery followed quickly in Ibis in 1885 (see here).

Being accustomed to good metalled roads pushing high into the mountains and an ease of access afforded by motor vehicles, it's easy to forget just how difficult it was during Victorian times (and well into the 20th century) to reach thinly populated mountainous regions, even in Europe.

PictureAlthough this mule track is in Spain, it reflects the sort of track then available across the Mediterranean
​Whitehead's Account 
A taste of this difficulty can be gleaned from Whitehead's opening comments in his account:  "On the l2th June 1883, I left a small village to visit the nest of an Eagle which the shepherds had told me of. Starting at 4 A. M. with a mule and guide (taking provisions for two days), it was not until 2P.M. that we reached the summit of the mountain. As it was close upon 6 o'clock before the nest had been visited, I decided to pass the night in a small stone hut  .." 

Whitehead's account continues to describe the moment he found the nuthatch: "The next morning, wishing to get a shot at some Alpine Swifts, which were nesting in a high crag near, I got up early, and when returning heard a curious whistle, which I thought was that of the Crested Titmouse. After I had waited a few minutes a Nuthatch crept out to the out of the end of a pine~bough ..."  

​Modern readers may be shocked at Whitehead's reason, shooting Alpine Swifts, for going out the next morning but the final words of Whitehead's sentence above are even more chilling as he finished with the bleak words "... and was promptly shot". However, at a time when optics were primitive and portable bird guide guides non-existent, this was the standard method used by ornithologists to identify birds, particularly when exploring unfamiliar areas.  Not unreasonably, as he had no texts to guide him, Whitehead did not realise the importance of his discovery at the time.  He later wrote that he  "... thought no more about it (i.e. the nuthatch) until the month of October, when, wishing to know if I had correctly named a few small warblers, l brought the skin of the Nuthatch to Mr. Sharpe, who assured me that he did not know the bird. At the end of the month, on the night of' my departure, lie wrote to me:-" 'There is no doubt your bird is a new species".
PictureCorsican Nuthatch's nest from Whiteheads account
Whitehead returned to Corsica in May 1884, but this time his focus was firmly on discovering more about the bird that was about to be named after him. He later wrote that on the second day of his exploration of the area he had found the nuthatch  "... after wandering about until past mid-day, without seeing any thing ... I heard the same curious whistle, and looking about, soon saw and shot ... the new Nuthatch ... Knowing that the mate must he near, I remained quiet and in a few minutes it shared the same fate; ... this bird proved to be the female. A few hours later I came across a small band, three of which I shot.  Such carnage seems unnecessary and inexplicable today but Whitehead wasn't finished as he had yet to find a nest. He continued his account as follows:  On the 12th, provisions having fallen short, I was forced to return to my head-quarters; but on the 16th I returned to search for the nests. and was most fortunate. The same evening I ... saw the female go twice to a very small and neatly-packed hole in a very old pine-stump, some 20 feet from the ground. He found a second nest on 20th May and then a third the following day. Although modern sensibilities may find his actions hard to defend, there's no doubt that he put himself at great risk to satisfy his (scientific) curiosity, writing that the nests  "... proved in nearly every case to be most difficult of access, the trees being high, very rotten, without branches, and much too big to swarm; the once mighty giants of the forest--now but whitened skeletons, being in the Iast stage of decay."  Interestingly, this is a pretty accurate description of the nest sites we found on my visit to Corsica this year. Whitehead continued that the "... first nest took nearly three hours' hard work to reach ... The second nest was in a much worse position and quite 40 feet high; but by climbing up a neighbouring tree, with the aid of a rope I managed to swing to a branch, and soon cut open the nest... 

During the eleven days he looked for them he found nine nests "... three of which were in holes from 70 to 100 feet from the ground, the trees in places nearly eaten through with decay; so that it would have been foolish to have attempted to reach them".  For over a decade, Whitehead remained the only source of information about this enigmatic species.  ​
PictureCorsican Nuthatch from Henry Dresser's "A History of the Birds of Europe"
 Interestingly, Despite, or perhaps because of his depredations, Whitehead never revealed the exact location of his discovery because he feared "... that if he made it known where it is to be met with, it would soon be exterminated by over-zealous collectors. Hence, though other naturalists have since visited Corsica, and have used every endeavour to obtain specimens, no one has hitherto succeeded in so doing ..." (from Henry Dresser's "A History of the Birds of Europe" -  Vol IX Supplement 1896 see here). Interestingly, J G Keulemans seems to have enjoyed a monopoly of illustrating Corsican Nuthatch. As Sharpe's  protégé, perhaps he was the only artist with access to the specimens!​

PictureVizzavona station
Rediscovery of the nesting sites
However, even as Dresser wrote those words,  German ornithologist Dr Alexander Koenig, founder of the still extant Koenig Museum in Bonn, visited Corsica where "with considerable difficulty" obtained five specimens. Another population was found in 1900, and birds collected, but no eggs or nests were taken. However the birds seem to have been largely left in peace between these visits.  No nests or eggs were taken between 1884 until 1908 when an intrepid British ornithologist made his way to the island to look for them. By this time access to the birds' habitat was greatly enhanced by the opening of a railway line into the interior which reached Corte in 1888 and was finally completed in 1894. ​This railway must have been a great help to the famous (or infamous?) British ornithologist and egg-collector Rev. F. C. R. Jourdain, (1865 - 1940) who it was that visited the area in 1908 and again in 1909. By then there was a station at Vizzavona in the heart of a huge pine woodland which must have cut out many hours in the saddle or on foot. Writing in the journal  Ibis in 1911 (see here) he reported being "fortunate" to find  "... several pairs obviously breeding in pine-forest at over 3000 ft" returning to take "... three nests with eggs" in 1908 and in 1909 taking "... two more nests with eggs ..."  Like Whitehead before him, Jourdain commented that the nests were  "... as a rule, only obtainable .with difficulty and  considerable amount of danger" as nesting trees were in "... an  advanced in decay".  The drawings that accompanied his account (below) in Ibis show how perilous it was to raid a nuthatch's nest high in a rotting tree stumps.   Some trunks, he recorded, had to be braced by logs to stabilise them before an assault could be mounted.   ​

Picture
Illustrations (drawn from photographs) from Jourdain's account. Note the figure in the lefthand drawing.
​Siberian Surprise
Small pine-loving nuthatches clearly like surprising ornithologists and may yet have another card to play. In 2006 an entomological expedition to the Siberian Russia found a nuthatch resembling Chinese Nuthatch (but with paler underparts) breeding in larches in the Altai mountains. It may be an undescribed race of Chinese Nuthatch, but given it's c1,500 km from the nearest known population, it's just as possible that it's a new species, However, without a specimen or even photos the identity of the birds remains unclear. Perhaps there was something in Whitehead's approach after all!​
Picture
The range of the various "Black-capped Nuthatches"
Taxing Taxonomy
​Surprisingly, by the time Jourdain visited Corsica, the species' scientific name was no longer Sitta whiteheadi, but instead Sitta canadensis whiteheadi, that is a race of the Red-breasted Nuthatch.  Today, lumping two species differing in plumage and so geographically isolated from one another may seem odd, but that's what the distinguished taxonomist Ernst Hartert [1859-1933], working with the information available at the time, decided in 1905. in his monumental work on Palearctic birds

Perhaps surprisingly, this treatment persisted for over 50 years. It remained "canadensis" in the first edition (1954) of  Peterson's field guide (although referred to in the text as Corsican Nuthatch). This was followed a few years later in The Atlas of European Bird (1960) by Karel Voous who also called it Corsican Nuthatch but added the alternative name Black-capped Nuthatch (to embrace Red-breasted, Kruper's, Yunnan and Chinese Nuthatches).  However, in 1961, the Journal of Ornithology published a paper confirming,  based on vocalisations and different breeding biology, that Corsican Nuthatch was a distinct species, something which the study of DNA has since confirmed..  This was followed by Peterson's second edition (1966), later by Voous and all works since. 


So by the 1960's the consensus clear, the Corsican Nuthatch was an endemic to the Western Palearctic and all the other species were distinct from their American cousin. . This was just as well as, mirroring Whitehead's celebrated discovery, Jean-Paul Ledant found a new species of nuthatch in the fragments of a once extensive pine forest in North Africa, the Algerian Nuthatch. This caused as much of a sensation in 1975 as Whitehead's had done almost a century before.  Although it most closely resembled Corsican Nuthatch - Corsica is only 650 km away from where it was found - its DNA showed that its closest relative was Kruper's Nuthatch of Asia Minor, the nearest population of which is over twice as distant! So where did that leave Corsican Nuthatch? Astonishingly, its closest relative proved to be Chinese Nuthatch  which lives over over 7,000 km to the east! ​

​Looking at the map, it's plain that Red-breasted Nuthatch has the widest distribution of any species in this group and probably the largest population too. This is somewhat ironic as it's thought that the ancient common ancestor of these birds once had a wide distribution across the Palearctic and spread from Siberia into Nearctic (i.e. North America). When much of the northern hemisphere was covered in ice, the pine forests (and the birds with them) retreated south to surviving 'pockets' of suitable conditions (refugia).  When the situation reversed and the forests spread north for some reason the nuthatches in the Palearctic remained stuck and isolated in their refugia where they evolved into new forms. However, perhaps because mountain ranges tend to run more north-south  in America, the Red-breasted Nuthatch managed to follow the pines north and spread across the continent. Interestingly, the Red-breasted Nuthatch is the only one in the group that isn't entirely resident but is often found in winter well south of its breeding range. This species' tendency to wander was well attested by the remarkable discovery of a bird in Norfolk in October 1989. Fortunately, it was still there into 1990 when I managed to catch up with it.
Picture
My notebook drawings of Norfolk's famous Red-breasted Nuthatch
Conservation
As noted above, Whitehead, believing the species to be restricted to a single limited area, never divulged where he saw the birds fearing they could easily be driven into extinction by collectors. Although his view may have been tainted by self-interest, Jourdain was right to suggest the species wasn't as rare or vulnerable as Whitehead thought commenting that the bird "... is in no danger of extermination ...  On the contrary, I have the best of reasons for believing that it is widely but somewhat locally distributed in the pine- forests of Corsica, and am aware of at least three localities, all at considerable distances apart, in which the bird is tolerably common" and cited the great difficulty in reaching their nests as a reason why oologists and collectors were not a threat.
PictureCorsican Nuthatch distribution based on maps by the IUCN (left) and the Helm Guide (right)
The species' preference for nesting in ancient rotting trees, which Jourdain believed to protect it from extinction by collectors, ironically turns out to be a long term threat to its existence. Such trees are only found in forests over 100, perhaps 150, years old so if destroyed by fire or irresponsible logging the available habitat is reduced and fragmented for a century or more. Fragmentation of habitat is a serious problem and one which published maps tend to obscure (see above). With a warming climate, fire must be a growing concern and the harder one to tackle as legislation can (in theory) moderate damage by commercial forestry.  I wonder if providing artificial nest sites (using suitable nest boxes or other means) in younger forests may help to sustain the population.   

Understandably maps in field guides are at such a large scale that the whole island seems awash with the nuthatch but even the map available online produced by the IUCN (International Union for Conservation) is too optimistic. The map from the Helm Guide to the group (Tits, Nuthatches & Treecreepers - 1996) better shows the fragmentation of its range (although it misses out a population in the NE of the island) 
Both the destruction and fragmentation of ancient forests remain a serious threat and explains why it is classed as "Vulnerable" (= at high risk of extinction in the wild) by the IUCN. It is thought that the species is slowly declining and now numbers as few as 2,000 birds although some estimates are as high as 3,000.  (The Algerian Nuthatch faces similar problems but its population is much lower, perhaps half that of Corsican Nuthatch). 

It's difficult to know how cherished and loved this gorgeous little bird is by the Corsicans, but I was surprised to find no information boards about the bird and the importance of ancient woodlands in its prime locations. I was disappointed too that many websites, videos and books aimed at visitors to the island fail to mention it (and even some that do use photos of European Nuthatch). Unlike in Whitehead's day,  raising awareness of this unique bird can only help to protect it.   

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Playing away - Corsican Catch-up

30/5/2026

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Vallée d’Asco
Although I’ve been gradually adding to my tally of European species by trips to Madeira, Majorca, Bulgaria and the Canaries in recent years, I admit I probably wouldn’t have found my way to Corsica had it not been for the enthusiasm and organisational skills of my Kent birding friend Brendan Ryan. He’d been galvanised to organise the trip after seeing Algerian Nuthatch in 2025 and wanted to collect the set by adding Corsican Nuthatch to his list! (I declined an invitation to join him on his jaunt to Algeria largely because you can’t take binoculars into the country). We were joined by three other hopefuls, Terry, Nigel and Gerald. Both the nuthatch and Corsican (Citril) Finch were new for all of us. I alone hadn’t seen Marmora’s Warbler (the others had seen the species in the UK!), Gerald hadn’t seen Moltoni’s Warber and all of us were missing the local tyrrhenica race of Spotted Flycatcher (aka ‘Mediterranean Flycatcher’). Although I’d seen Moltoni’s Warbler on Majorca in 2019, I wanted better views as the conditions were poor, constant drizzle and mist, at the time. I’d seen the balearica  race of ‘Mediterranean Flycatcher’ too on the same trip in 2019 but wanted to compare the two taxa (it was entirely novel for the others in the group). Having left all the organisation up to Brendan and being confident in the superior abilities (photographic & ornithological) of the rest of the team, I’d not looked into the logistics of the trip, but I did check on what non-avian endemics might be present. Basic birding knowledge told me, though, that the weather could be critical to our success
Picture
Red Kites were abundant (Photo: Nigel Jarman)
​We flew out on the afternoon of Saturday 16th May arriving at Bastia in the late afternoon being greeted on our arrival by clear blue skies and sunshine. A good omen as the forecast earlier in the week had suggested a high probability of rain. Our first Corsican species were Spotless Starlings and Italian Sparrows at the airport. Then it was just over an hour’s drive to our hotel (Hotel de La Prix) in the historic capital of the island, Corte. En route, we began to realise just how abundant Red Kite were here but saw little else of note.
​Sunday 17th May
Rather to our relief our first day on the island dawned bright and sunny without a cloud in the sky. In such keen company, I fully expected to be out at dawn (06.00), but happily we had a civilized start allowing for a moderately early breakfast first! At about 08.00 we took the T20 from Corte turning off onto the D69 (after c25 miles) by a small restaurant (Le Chalet). Our destination was a site (42.1499, 9.1749) for Corsican Nuthatch noted in Dave Gosney’s guide which was c3 km further along the road.
PictureCorsican (Citril) Finch (Photo: Nigel Jarman)
​However, before we got there a couple of small birds flew up from the roadside and conveniently pitched back down a few metres away where the tarmac gave way to some gravel – Corsican Finch! Our first lifer in the bag and it couldn’t have been easier! Admittedly the view through the windscreen hadn’t been great but we’d seen more than enough to know what they were. It was good to have some of the pressure taken off!

PictureMoltoni's Warbler - for once, one of my digiscoped photos!
Parking at the lay-by opposite the track recommended by Gosney, we started searching along the road for the nuthatch. Happily, it wasn’t long before Gerald spotted a pair of Corsican Nuthatches fairly high in the pines. Result! After extended views of our main target we dropped back down the road hoping to obtain better views of the Corsican Finches we’d seen earlier. We failed in our quest, but instead, we got excellent views of both Moltoni’s and Marmora’s Warblers. The former appeared first with extended excellent views of a male singing beside the road. The sighting was only marred by the fact that I could no longer hear the species even at a few metres range (a reminder of how badly my hearing is getting as I’d found the bird by ear on Majorca).

PictureMarmora's Warbler (Photo: Nigel Jarman)
​Scanning the hillside, we picked up a long-tailed Sylvia warbler on a bush on the ridge above us. Unfortunately, even at that range I could see that it had the vinous underparts of a Dartford Warbler. Not having seen this attractive species for a while, I set my scope up on the bush into which it had dropped. It wasn’t long before a long-tailed Sylvia warbler popped up ... only this one had lead grey underparts, a Marmora’s! It was a clinching view albeit rather distant. Once again, fortune shined on us as shortly afterwards we found a pair of Mamora’s close to the road. Whilst the others clicked away with their cameras, I contented myself with ‘scope filling views of this attractive lifer. Also a lifer, but of the reptilian variety, was Tyrrhenian Lizard of which we saw several specimens.

​Elated to have seen all our main targets in a few hours before midday, we dropped down to the cafe (Le Chalet) we’d seen at the road junction of the T20 and D69. After a much needed coffee, we checked some waste ground opposite (42.1697, 9.1653) where, it transpired, Corsican Finches were waiting for us. This time I had excellent, extended views of the species. Cirl Buntings were also present here as they were everywhere in suitable habitat. Our presence caused some curiosity and puzzlement to diners in the cafe, several of whom wandered over to see what we were so excited about!
From the cafe we drove a few miles down the T20 to the Belvedere de Pasciola (42.1750, 9.1636) and then walked c800m across to a stone tower, Fortin de Pasciola, built in soon after the French took control of the island in 1769. It was supposed to control the route into the mountains, but French engineers decided to take a less steep route and build the road further away than initially planned making it ineffective almost as soon as it was constructed. Thereafter, it served as a prison for discontented Corsicans under the early the repressive French regime. Our walk across the the tower gave us more opportunities to see Marmora’s Warblers and gave us excellent views of Woodlark.
PictureCorsican Nuthatch (Photo: Nigel Jarman)
Then we returned to the scene of our earlier triumph for another look at Corsican Nuthatch. This time we took the nearby track into the woods and were rewarded with better views of this handsome species as a pair attended a nest site. On subsequent stops as we drove up towards the Col de Sorba we had more Corsican Nuthatches which performed well (particularly at 42.1442, 9.1876).  

Picture"Mediterranean" Flycatcher (Photo: Nigel Jarman)
Then it was time to drop down back into Corte to search for our last target bird, “Mediterranean Flycatcher” (tyrrhenica), along the river. This cryptic ‘species’ performed well for us as we watched from the footbridge at the confluence of two rivers, the Restonica & Tavignanu (42.3037, 9.1532). At the time of writing, this flycatcher has been demoted back to subspecies status in the authoritative Avibase list, but is once again under consideration to be 'promoted' to full species status.  Here I also had a brief view of Dipper, the only one we saw during our visit. I called it on form and behaviour before I fully absorbed what it actually looked like. It wasn’t the usual white-bibbed dark brown adult bird, but a mottled grey-and-white young one. The first I’ve seen in this plumage. Also present here were Italian Sparrows, Spotless Starlings and a passing Hobby.

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Hermann's Tortoise - close enough foe me to get this image with my phone!
PictureCitadelle de Corte
From the river, we drove up the Citadelle de Corte for our final ornithological exploration of the day. The birds (House Martin, Swallow, Kestrel, Italian Sparrow, etc) here weren’t overexciting to see, but finding a Hermann’s Tortoise here (42.3070, 9.1471) was a different matter! As the others drove back to Hotel de La Prix, I opted to walk back downhill through Corte’s historic centre. Having been somewhat disappointed by what I’d seen of Corte so far I was delighted by the cobbled streets, somewhat dishevelled old (18thC?) buildings and quaint townscapes of the old town culminating with a large “square” with a statue of Corsican hero, Pasquale Paoli. Thanks to my modest exploration, at my suggestion, we ate in the old centre of town that night!  Once a History teacher ​... 

PictureMouflon (Photo: Nigel Jarman)
Monday 18th May
Our destination today was the Vallée d’Asco,and our aim was to see more Corsican Finches, Corsican Nuthatches and locate some montane species. From our hotel it was about a 28 minute drive (c28 km) along the T20 and briefly the T30 to the start of the valley (42.4799, 9.1968) on the D147.  Here the landscape took on a more Mediterranean character. Negotiating the c27 km along the D147 through the Gorges e l'Asco up to the highest point (1450m) at La station de ski Haut Asco (42.4033, 8.9236) took much longer. Not only did the higher reaches of the road twist around wildly as it carves its way through some spectacular scenery, but also we kept stopping to look for birds! En route, we added Golden Eagle, Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin and Alpine Swift to our tally, but the prize sighting for me wasn't a bird, but a small group of Mouflon (including a handsome ram). Technically, Mouflon is an introduced species, but after 6,000 years I think it counts as a native!  In retrospect, we probably should have stopped less to give ourselves more time at the highest elevation. 

PictureThe team photographing Corsican Finch at the ski station
​At the ski station a small party of Corsican Finch performed well and a distant group of Alpine Chough. As ever, Red Kite was prominently in evidence but a Black Kite (much rarer on Corsica) put in a brief performance. Unfortunately, persistent scanning failed to produce a much-wanted sighting of Lammergeier. (Having reached a low ebb of 4 pairs, partly due to reintroductions, there are now thought to be 10-16 pairs on the island but they seem to cover a very large area). Two the group saw Corsican Nuthatch in the mature pines beyond the hotel whilst I persisted in looking for Lammergeier .

PictureWe were fortunate that the rain arrived late on our second afternoon (Photo: Nigel Jarman)
Wishing to boost our species count, we headed down, via Ponte Leccia, to Dunes de Prunete (42.3079, 9.5510) c84 km distant on the coast. Apparently, this is the island’s best migration hotspot, but our hopes of enjoying even a modest number of migrants dimmed as the rain began to set in. That said, we did manage to see Turtle Dove, Bee-eater and Scopoli's Shearwater (Cory’s being absent here) plus a few odds-and-ends. With our hopes of adding more birds to our list dropping in proportion to the amount of rain falling, we opted to head to our hotel near Bastia airport (Chez Walter, Lucciana). Happily, by the time we arrived, the rain had relented so we went for walk on the hillside opposite the hotel. Here we had another Hobby, two Peregrines and 60+ Red Kites. After dinner in the hotel, we ventured out into the night to chase (eventually) down a calling Scops Owl. Pleasingly, I can still hear the species albeit only at relatively close range.

With a moderately early flight that morning, we had no time on the 19th to do anything other than have breakfast and head for the airport. The last time I had three lifers in a day in Europe was on my two-week trip to Bulgaria so it was good to tally up three more in a long weekend. Thanks to excellent weather on our first day, we wrapped up all our main targets surprisingly quickly, but it would have been hard work if the predicted rain had materialised. Before I went, I had little or no idea about Corsica beyond its endemic birdlife and that it was the birth place of Napoleon. Accordingly, I was utterly unprepared for what an attractive island it proved to be with snow-capped mountains, exquisitely rugged passes, some wonderful woodlands and, to judge from Corte, some charming old town centres. We passed some interesting mediaeval buildings and I later discovered that it has a rich heritage of ecclesiastical murals. Of the three Mediterranean islands I've visited - Corsica, Majorca and Cyprus - scenically I'd rate Corsica the best of all, The islands of the western Mediterranean, like Cyprus in the east, have a remarkable number of endemic birds plus a host endemic plants, insects, amphibians and reptiles. Our bird centred jaunt only scratched the surface.                                                                       

With thanks to Nigel Jarman for allowing me to use his excellent photos. The others took outstanding photos too but I forgot to ask if I could use them!​
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Casa de la Memoria La Sauceda - a historical diversion

23/5/2026

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PictureAlcala de los Gazules
This spring I fled Alcala de los Gazules to avoid the noise, mayhem, and, sadly, the exhibition of animal cruelty on display during celebrations for the pueblo's patron saint, San Jorge.  The "bull run" is hard to avoid as it goes past my house and going out for the day to avoid it means a nightmare trying to park on return.  It always astonishes me that so many Alcalinos, who I've found to be kind, friendly and helpful people, not only tolerate but celebrate the taunting of a bull (actually a bullock) as it runs, terrified, through the streets of Alcala. Tradition, I guess, has a powerful hold on people but there's also a darkness about humanity that sometimes bubbles up to overwhelm our better instincts.    

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Republicans surrendering near Madrid
This is never more apparent than when social discourse and debate gives way to the savagery of a civil war. We in England are fortunate that 15 generations have washed away the horror of our own civil war leaving it to historians to debate the issues and events of that time.  Spain does not have that luxury.  It is little more than three generations on from the slaughter of Spain's internecine conflict (1936-1939) which lives on in the memories and stories handed down by abuelos and tatarabuelos to the current generation. Both sides committed atrocities but those on the Francoist ("Nationalist") side were part of a calculated policy of fear and repression whilst on the Republican side they were largely reactive. The hardships caused by the war persisted well into the 1940s when slave labour - Republican prisoners - built many of the roads in the province. Some 30,000 prisoners were housed in dreadful conditions and given starvation rations in c40 camps dotted across the region (see my previous post here). Hundreds died from malnutrition and ill-treatment; on a single day in 1941 at Punta Paloma 41 prisoners died after desperation drove them to eat bulbs that turned out to be poisonous.  Many work camps were in what are now popular birding destinations such as Tarifa, Facinas, Puntas Carnero & Paloma.  Even in the mid-1950s when Laurie Lee wrote "A Rose for Winter" the bus from Algeciras to Seville (via Alcala) regularly had a armed guard to deter 'bandits'. The probable reality is that guards were present thanks to a dwindling band of up to Republican guerrillas (up to 600) who persisted in Cadiz and the mountains of Ronda into the early 1950s.  Astonishingly, the last 'Republican' hiding from Franco's revenge only came out of the mountains after his death in 1975! 
My decision to take refuge from the horror of the Alcala 'bull run' in Jimena de la Frontera was in some ways a perverse one since it was motivated by a desire to visit the Casa de la Memoria La Sauceda.  Today La Sauceda is known as a charming beauty spot and the starting point for a sendero that takes you up to the top of Aljibe (1091m) but like so many other places in Spain it has a dark past.  During the Spanish Civil War, it was a refuge for those fleeing the slaughter of civilians sympathetic to the elected Republic regime by Franco's "Nationalist" forces. In the Campo de Gibraltar alone c1,000 were murdered including c300 in Algeciras and c100 in Jimena. A similar tale can be told for almost every town and village in Cadiz (and beyond).  At the end of October 1936 the hamlet was bombarded by Francoist aircraft and assaulted by the rebel army killing c50 people. The survivors were rounded up and taken to a detention centre at El Marrufo on a nearby estate where many were tortured and killed. Over the next five months there and at La Sauceda more than 300 were murdered and their bodies dumped in communal graves.       
Under Franco's dictatorship, of course, none of this could be openly talked about.  It is still a controversial subject for many particularly on the right who, conveniently, feel the past shouldn't be "raked over" as it will only cause discord.  The relatives of the 'disappeared' take a different view.   Gradually, against much opposition (often by those whose families benefited from the repression), the truth has been painfully uncovered. Bodies of grandparents and great-grandparents have been recovered, identified by DNA and personal possessions, and reinterred with dignity at a restored chapel at La Sauceda (unfortunately, road closures meant I was unable to visit the chapel as intended). The Casa de la Memoria La Sauceda in Jimena is part museum, part memorial and part resource centre designed to keep the memory of the victims of the Francoist regime alive and to serve as a warning to future generations.  It's not an easy place to visit but if you're in Jimena or passing nearby, you should at least consider doing so.  ​
My visit to Jimena wasn't all about history and I managed to check out several birding sites in the area that I hadn't visited for years.  One I hadn't visited at all was the walk along the Rio Hozgarganta below the castle (recommended).  This proved longer than intended as a vital connecting path was closed due to a landslip.  This meant I had to loop around to the road entering to the pueblo via the CA 8201.  Yet even here I was reminded, with a jolt, of the town's dark past as a poignant memorial stands to mark the spot where four victims of the Francoist repression were killed. By the memorial there was a notice board with a Spanish poem that retains its haunting quality even in a Google translation:  
​
As long as I have a voice,
I will speak of the dead,
So still, so silent,
So troublesome

As long as I have a voice,
I will speak of their dreams,
Of all the betrayals,
Of all of the silences,
Of all of the nameless bones,
Awaiting the return of their absolute surrender,
Of their winter pain.

As long as I have a voice,
My dead shall not be silenced 


The juxtaposition of such a mesmerizingly beautiful landscape and a memorial to the victims of communal violence was deeply moving. 
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Birding Cadiz April-May 2026 - Part III - Sundry Updates

21/5/2026

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The Alcornocales from Benalup
Roads & tracks
The damage wrought by weeks of heavy rain over the winter is still plainly evident as you drive around the region. Even major roads have been adversely affected although repairs were in hand when I visited (e.g. there were several lane closures on the A 381 Jerez-Algeciras road) but delays were minimal. Elsewhere things were more serious with landslips yet to be cleared and even some roads still closed entirely (e.g. the CA 8201 Puerto de Galiz – Jimena de la Frontera road). Apparently, it was closed by a landslide, then repaired only to suffer another landslide since when it has been closed. 

Away from metalled roads the situation is even worse with the surface of many gravel tracks now in a very poor condition. On La Janda, the track is very uneven and worse, remains impassable at two points (one due to the absence of a bridge). However, the cañada real that runs from near the turning for the Presa de Celemin is currently being repaired and is now a broad well-surfaced gravel track for c6 km. Beyond that it progressively becomes worse and worse until, after c8.5 km, it becomes two tramlines of dirt tyre tracks hemmed in by crops. I know because I drove that far in a hire car before being able to evacuate onto the N 340 via a private farm track. Not to be advised particularly in a Fiat 500!  Another track that is now in poor condition is the Cordel de Fontanar which takes you up to the Laguna del Jeli (Chiclana)  

The other problem I faced was negotiating the roadworks to the west of Algeciras to reach Punta Carnero. These roadworks mean that it’s currently impossible to turn off the N 340 onto the CA 224 necessitating a long and convoluted route through the intestines of Getares. Finding the route is pretty much impossible without using a SatNav. Hopefully, the original route should reopen soon (?).  
Water Levels
Apart from the damage to the roads, the most obvious consequence of the weeks of heavy winter rain is that the reservoirs and lagunas in the area are fuller than they’ve been for a decade or more. Although the water level has dropped from when I was last in the area in February, they still remain historically high. No better example of this is the state of the Embalse de Guadalcacin near Algar. Until recently, you could be forgiven for not realising as you drove towards Algar on the CA 6108 and beyond on the CA 5221 towards Arcos de la Frontera, that you were skirting a reservoir at all. There were clues in the stranded viaducts pointlessly crossing high above fields where cows grazed, but you would have struggled to gain a glimpse of any water. As my map (below) shows the reservoir had shrunken to a narrow waterway surrounded by pasture. Now the function of these tall bridges is plain and the flood of water below and to either side of them is obvious. As you head towards Arcos behind you there’s once again a spectacular view of a vast lake dotted with islands. Only the trees knee deep in water tell the story!​
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The Embalse de Guadalcacin had shrunk to an almost invisible remnant (as the photos from Google show) but is now full to overflowing
The same applies to Embalse de Barbate which should be good news for the Ospreys that now nest in the region. At the Laguna de Medina the flood has receded but still impinges on the cycle route. At the Lagunas de Lebrija, a damp hollow once again merits its traditional name, Laguna de la Galiana. Most pleasing, though, was to find that the Laguna de los Tollos, although distinctly shallower than in February, still merited the name. Hopefully, enough water will remain to give it a head start when the winter rains return but I fear that it may well evaporate again in the summer’s heat. ​
Further afield, in Malaga Province, the Laguna de Herrera (near Antequerra) has sprung back into lfe according to press reports 
(see here).  I've also seen FB posts that seem to show that Laguna de Ruiz Sanchez (north of Osuna), often a dry pan, is flooded and full of birds  
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​Charco de los Hurones - a new future? 
One of my favourite sites in the area is the village of Charco de los Hurones. A National Reservoir Plan was set up in 1945 to supply water to the main cities in Cadiz Province. This involved the construction of dams to create three reservoirs to ensure the supply of water to growing urban areas in Cadiz Province. These were the Embalses de Bornos, de Arcos and de los Hurones. The first two dams were constructed close to centres of population but the third, de los Hurones, was more remote so a new village was constructed to house the workers. This settlement consisted of about 30 houses, an outpatients clinic, school, shops, a church, small venta El Pantano and had a population of c300 souls in its heyday. It is an utterly charming place with echoes of Clough Williams-Ellis’s Portmeirion (made famous by “The Prisoner”). The dam and reservoir was completed in 1965 so the village gradually became a “ghost town” with the population dwindling to a handful although the hedges remain neatly trimmed and gardens well-tended.

The Junta de Andalucía has a plan to restore the village, improve access and give the place a new lease of life by transforming it into a rural ecotourism complex on a 50 year lease and improving access in general. This project was due to come to fruition in 2025, but on my visit in May it didn’t seem to be finished and the whole village was fenced off with forbidding signs making it clear that visitors weren’t welcome. This isn’t a top site for birding but it’s a great place to stop and it would be a criminal waste if this wonderful site became private.

Other Updates
Mirador del Los Alcornocales Benalup
This isn’t a birding site as such but somewhere that offers a superb view of the Alcornocales with the double bonus of a small park nearby showcasing the botanical richness of the Alcornocales and a pleasant venue, El Merendero, for a snack or meal. The Parque Temático y Botánico de los Alcornocales & Tajo de la Cisma is closed Monday to Thursday, open on Friday (15:30 – 18:00) and Saturdays & Sundays plus holidays (10.00-14.00 15.30-18.00).  the mirador is, I think, always open and the view of the Alcornocales is tremendous. It would be a great place from which to scan to see what passes by ... 
Manegodor Pools, Trebujena
The small reserve near Trebujena located where the road meets the Guadalquivir seems to be nameless (although I think of it as Manegodor Pools after the nearby taberna).  In recent years, the gate into the reserve has been securely locked which wasn't a great problem as the pool can be easily scanned for ducks (esp. Marbled Duck)  and waders from the road.  However in February and again in May the gate was left open allowing access to a small tower. Although I've yet to be lucky here, this is an excellent location for scanning for sandgrouse, but the downside is that you're likely to flush a lot of birds as you walk along the path. Getting to the nearby hide is even worse so it's just as well that it's always locked.    
And finally ... 
Two other updates; as noted previously the vulture feeding station near El Colmenar seems to be abandoned and the footbridge over the river at Conil is currently closed due to storm damage. ​
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Birding Cadiz April-May 2026 - Part II

15/5/2026

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Rufous Bushchat
During my stay, I visited Laguna de Medina several times. On both occasions Black-necked Grebe were present in exceptional numbers with my highest count of over just over 150 birds but I found only 7 White-headed Duck. A Ferruginous Duck was present on one occasion. My best sighting there, though was of an amphibian, Sharp-ribbed Newt. Nearby the gravel workings (Reserva San Gaspar) held up to 5 Marbled Duck, presumably part of the reintroduction programme there. Chris and I also managed to check Lagunas Espera, Lebrija and Tollos. As so often in recent years, the first was a disappointment with few birds. The Lagunas de Lebrija were very wet too although they too seemed to hold few birds. The Laguna de la Galiana is often no more than a damp hollow but it was brimming with water. Nearby, the larger Laguna la Cigarrera was in equally good condition but largely screened by tamarisk. However, this tamarisk scrub has the bonus of holding a good population of Western Olivaceous Warbler.  Laguna de los Tollos lies further on to the west at El Cuervo on the boundary of Cadiz and Seville Provinces . It has a sad history of exploitation and neglect although in recent years herculean attempts have been made to revive this local treasure. In many years it's bone dry, but it remains flooded after the winter's rains and was by far the best of the lesser well known lagunas I visited.  The water level has fallen since February when I last visited which possibly explains the relative lack of ducks and, conversely, the abundance of Flamingos (700+) in the shallow water.  The number of Black-necked Grebe was well down too, but both Gull-billed and Whiskered Terns were present plus a good selection of waders (Common Sandpiper, Kentish & Little Ringed Plovers, Black-winged Stilts and Avocets).   However, I doubt whether it will last much into the summer and will need a good winter rainfall to replenish it.   ​
PictureRufous Bushchat - accept no alternative! Has any other European species had quite so many English names over the years?
One of the main reasons I like to base myself in Alcalá de los Gazules is because it allows relatively easy access to the areas to the north along the Guadalquivir (c1 hour vs almost 2 hours from Tarifa). In late spring and summer the star prize here is Rufous Bushchat (aka Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin etc) as the vineyards around Trebujena host one of the largest populations of this declining species in Spain. Although they mostly arrive in May, sufficient birds are present towards the end of April to make a search for them then worthwhile. Exploring the triangle of roads north of Trebujena, Chris and I found six birds without any difficulty including one in display flight (although none were present at my favourite site near a ceramic sign depicting Bee-eaters). I later discovered a friend was exploring the tracks off the road down to the Guadalquivir at exactly the same time and found a further three birds. ​

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Trebujena's vineyards - typical Rufous Bushchat habitat
​From Trebujena, its only a short drive to the Marismas de Adventus, a key site for Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. In February I’d had a remarkable flock of almost a hundred birds here, but this time my luck deserted me. Chris and I found none.  Minutes after I left, my friend Ricky Owen not only had two birds there, but managed to photograph them on the ground. Once again the gate to the small reserve as you reach the river was open (previously it was always locked) so I was able to check the small tower “hide” at the corner of the reserve. This gives an even better view across the marismas than along the Adventus track so is another prime spot for seeing Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. Chris and I were unlucky again but others have had better fortune here. The big problem with this small reserve is that it’s so designed to make it impossible to reach the tower (or locked hides) without flushing most of the birds on the nearby pools (mostly Black-winged Stilt and Avocet with a handful of Marbled Duck). The larger reserve beside the river still holds few birds, but should hopefully mature over time.  There were plenty of Greater Short-toed Larks here.
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Those staying in Tarifa who want a ‘wader fix’ don’t have to drive for two hours to reach Bonanza on the Guadalquivir as the Marsmas de Barbate are only about 50 minutes away (and about the same time as from Alcalá ). I popped in there several times but by far the best visit was on 16th April (see eBird Checklist - 16 Apr 2026 - La Breña y Marismas de Barbate PNat--El Cañillo - 35 species (+1 other taxa) ) with Neil & Mandy Colgate. However, on that occasion it wasn’t just the waders that were the centre of attention as there’d been a big fall of passerines and the bushes and trees were alive with birds – 40+ Woodchat Shrike, at least a dozen Common Redstart, several Garden Warblers, Blackcaps, a Pied Flycatcher, a thunbergi Yellow Wagtail and, most remarkably, a Rose-coloured Starling. The latter is a rare bird in Spain. The Birds of the Iberian Peninsula notes only three in Andalucia (and only 28 since the Spanish Rarities Committee was established) and Ebird lists only two other reports of this species from Cadiz Province; a wintering bird at La Linea in 2019 and a bird near the Pinar de Algaida on 10th April 2009. Remarkably, I also found the latter bird! Although the starling has to be the star rarity-wise, it was a somewhat tatty 1st summer individual and was outshone by a splendid thunbergi Yellow Wagtail. Although I’ve seen this subspecies previously, I’d never had such a close and extended view previously. Also present were all the usual waders (including 200+ Collared Pratincoles on one visit) plus single of both Audouin’s and Slender-billed Gulls. From Alcalá , the Marismas de Cetina are marginally closer (in terms of time) than Barbate, but this spring the site was very disappointing as the salinas were flooded and waders very few in number (although Mediterranean Short-toed Lark performed well).  ​​

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San Jorge (St George) is Alcalá’s patron saint so there’s a “bull run” past my house on the saint’s day and a massive, noisy party then and over the next weekend. The racket goes on into the early hours, the taunting of the bull is intolerable and parking is a nightmare. Hence in recent years I’ve made myself scarce and explored other areas. This time I decided to stay in El Colmenar and then Jimena de la Frontera, partly to go birding and partly to visit a new museum there (more of which in a later post). Taking the road over to Cortes de la Frontera, I stopped at the far side of the pueblo to take the sendero behind the school up to the Puerto de Libar (c1,000m). Again I found relatively few birds but it was a great walk. I doubt I’ll ever realise my ambition to walk on down into the Llanos de Libar and on to Montejaque, but trying the 13 km Sendero Circular del Pico de los Pinos may be a more realistic proposition. However, being by myself without hiking poles and with rain clouds looming, I beat a retreat back to the car down the wonderful cobbled route taken by pack mules for centuries (the roads in these mountains are relatively new affairs blasted out of the rock.
PictureDisused (?) feeding station
Heading back along the A 373, I took the beautifully scenic forest road down to El Colmenar noting en route that the vulture feeding station here seemed out of use. It was still signposted at the turning but not at the small car park below the information boards. Unlike the El Picacho site there was no sign of carcasses (or vultures) here 

In Jimena, one priority was to drive up to Cima Lomas de Cámara and the radio mast above the town. The narrow metalled road is in surprisingly good condition and after c12 km you get to c200m before it gives way to gravel. In truth I didn’t see many birds but I know of nowhere else that gives such a good transect of farmland, Algerian Oak forest, cork oaks, pines and heathery summit scrub. The views are spectacular and had it not been chilly and very windy I’d have explored further on foot. Instead, I dropped back down to the lowlands and drove across to Marchenilla, just south of Jimena. This used to be my go-to spot for Rufous Bushchat, but I rarely visit the area as Trebujena is far better for this species. Nonetheless, the track here has a good assortment of birds and is particularly good for Tawny Pipit (I had 6 birds without much effort).  The following morning, I had a longer than intended walk along the Rio Hozgarganta that flows below Jimena as a rockfall had closed the route I intended to take. One bird I was pleased to see here was Grey Wagtail which is a scarce bird in the area.   ​
Naturally, I also visited the straits a couple of times although I increasingly tend to watch for what passes over Alcala! On my first visit was around midday to Cazalla on 30th April (having picked up a friend from Gibraltar airport earlier). It was rather quiet with only 14 Honey Buzzards, 3 Booted Eagles and a Black Kite. I was pleased, though to get a good digiscope image of Thekla's Lark there.   My second visit was to Punta Carnero on 3rd May.  Although I had some good views there, the total of Honey Buzzards (6) passing through was disappointing. Perhaps surprisingly given the date, the highest count was of Black Kite (261), followed by Griffon Vultures (107) Booted Eagle (55) and Short-toed Eagle (17). However, we were lucky to have a Ruppell's Vulture come in with the Griffons (although the following day, when I was elsewhere, there was a Ruppell's and a White-backed Vulture there!).
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I had a great spring break in this wonderfully ‘birdy’ area. Hopefully, this short resume of my stay gives a flavour of birding in the area and will help to convince readers not only to visit the area but also that there’s more to Cadiz Province than watching the straits for raptors! If you're reading this and have never been there (or even if you have) please don't hesitate to contact me for help, advice or my 300 pp guide to birding sites in the area.

​                                                  Part III on site updates to follow ... 
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Birding Cadiz April-May 2026 - Part I

14/5/2026

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I had an enjoyable four-week sojourn in Cadiz Province this spring (08/04 – 08/05), Although I didn’t have a hire car until 20/04, as usual, I still managed to get in plenty of birding from my terrace in Alcalá de los Gazules, enjoyed a couple of forays with Neil & Mandy Colgate and my Kent birding friend Chris Cox joined me for a week owards the end of my stay. Watching Lesser Kestrels is always a rewarding occupation, but my highest count (mostly c20 birds, once 30) is well down on previous springs (40+ & not infrequently higher) and only one pair (vs 3+ pairs) seemed to be nesting on the old tower (part of the medieaval defemces) next to my house. A few days into my stay I had a distant juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagle from the terrace – now a regular, if episodic, species from my lazy vantage point. I also enjoyed two sightings of Black Vulture. The first was a solo bird, but on the second occasion there were two. Sightings of this magnificent bird in the area are set to increase as a reintroduction programe gets underway (see https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1MLYfyji6L/ ). Otherwise, I had all the usual birds I expect to see over my terrace in Alcalá de los Gazules in spring with the notable exception of Egyptian Vulture and Honey Buzzard. On the other hand, I enjoyed only my second sighting of Hoopoe from my terrace. Having a commanding view is great for raptor watching but the hillside drops precipitously away making other birds hard to get.    
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Black Vultures from the terrace
However, I did manage to see a nice adult Egyptian Vulture close to the pueblo along the newly restored footpath – Sendero del Valle. The route follows a wooded stream before reaching open farmland and then the service road next to the A 381. Nightingales were abundant here plus good numbers of Cetti’s Warbler. Interestingly, in Spanish these similarly coloured species, often found together in dense undergrowth, are called ruisenor comun and cetia ruisenor. In addition to the Egyptian Vulture, I had both Booted and Short-toed Eagles and plenty of Griffons.   
Another site near Alcalá that proved productive for birds was the Molinos Valley (although since it getting to the head of the valley involves a round trip of at least 10 km, I mainly go there when I have access to transport) so, apart from one visit, I didn’t explore the place until I had visitors. As you enter the valley there’s usually a pair of Black-eared Wheater (or two) along the roadside, but although I saw them several times they were elusive this spring. I was disappointed that neither of the scarcer vultures showed, but three Bonelli’s Eagles (including a displaying pair) were a great reward for our efforts when Chris and I visited on 30th April. When we visited again one morning (03/05), we were delighted to witness groups of Honey Buzzards, 300+ in all, lifting out of the woodlands plus more Short-toed, Booted and Bonelli’s Eagles. 
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Chris scanning for Honey Buzzards and other raptors at the head of the Molinos valley
Not quite so local, being a 14 km from Alcalá , the Area Recreativa El Picacho makes an excellent stop. There’s a large wooden platform providing an excellent viewpoint at the first car park you reach, but, although it gives fine views, the nearby vulture feeding station is frustratingly just out of sight. However, with patience (and a ‘scope) you have a good chance of seeing the birds as they drop in. A short walk from a second car park takes you through woods to a small laguna (Laguna de El Picacho). This was fuller than I’ve ever seen it. An information board there lists Fire Salamander, Southern Marbled & Sharp-ribbed Newts and Stripeless Tree Frog amongst its inhabitants but not the larger frog (Iberian Water Frog?) that was very much in evidence.  Given the years of drought the region has suffered in recent years when the ‘laguna’ was bone dry, the presence of so many amphibians here seemed miraculous. This was also an excellent site for both Iberian Chiffchaff and Bonelli’s Warbler. Another kilometre along the road, you can at last see the distant (c1.5 km) feeding station. The views aren’t great, but with a ‘scope I was able to find 60+ Griffons, 2 Black and 7 Egyptian Vultures (plus many Black Kites & Ravens). It’s far from ideal but offers a fair chance of all three species of vulture. ​
The fields around Las Badelejos and the Valcargado track (both c35 mins away by car).are an irresistible draw. As bustards are most active earlier in the morning and raptors wait for the sun to rise higher in the sky, I usually tackle the former first. I saw a male Little Bustard calling on all but one of my five visits. However, the once reliable fields nearer the village continue to be deserted and many of those fields a little further over are now planted with olive trees so this lone bird was c2km along the track. How much longer will they survive here? A juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagle briefly showed itself here on one occasion during my visits here which is hardly surprising as the fabulous Valcargado is just over the ridge less than 2 km away as the eagle flies.
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Displaying Little Bustard (Photo: Neil Colman)
PictureAetherie Fritillary
​​in recent years the Valcargado track proved the most consistent and reliable spot for this species. I’ve seen then pretty much anywhere along this c8 km track but the distant end of the route is usually the best spot for this iconic and  charismatic species. I visited 4-5 times and saw 1-2 magnificent adult birds every time.  Both adults showed a lot of white on the forewing and shoulders, but one was particularly well-marked. The flowery fields at the start of this route sometimes still have Little Bustard. Whilst my attempts to find them failed, I was rewarded by finding the scarce and endangered Aetherie Fritillary butterfly in the flowers beside the track.

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Spanish Imperial Eagle (Photo: Richard Page-Jones)
                                                                            To be continued ...
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    About me ...

    Hi I'm John Cantelo. I've been birding seriously  since the 1960s when I met up with some like minded folks (all of us are still birding!) at Taunton's School in Southampton.  I have lived in Kent , where I taught History and Sociology, since the late 1970s. I've served on the committees of both my local RSPB group and the county ornithological society (KOS).  I also worked as a part-time field teacher for the RSPB at Dungeness.  Having retired I now spend as much time as possible in Alcala de los Gazules in SW Spain.   When I'm not birding I edit books for the Crossbill Guides series.

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