Since the raptor passage across the Strait of Gibraltar is one of the great spectacles of bird migration not merely in Europe but the world, it’s understandable that visiting birders tend to congregate between Tarifa and Algeciras. Many seem to get scarcely any further north than La Janda or Barbate, fewer still venture as far as Laguna de Medina (for White-headed Duck et al), Bahia de Cadiz and the Sanlucar area (for waders and terns) and, more recently, Chipiona (for Little Swift). Those arriving via Seville may divert to take in Brazo del Este but for most visiting birders the area between that site and Cadiz Province is terra incognita. To be fair, this is not helped by a lack of information and, often, limited access. I cannot pretend that this is a top-drawer birding destination but exploring this area can be very rewarding and, for me at least, the shady drive along the Guadalquivir is one of the most relaxing sites for some gentle unhurried birding.
Spoonbills and Avocets in the pools beside the Carretera de Practico
Somewhat surprisingly, the bridge over a small canal here doesn't mark the provincial border. Even those who manage to penetrate as far as Bonanza’s famous salinas don’t necessarily follow the Carretera de Practico (CA 9027) along the Guadalquivir. As you approach the marismas across what seems to be an open flat plain, it can be something of a shock when a large cargo boat interposes itself between the viewer and the horizon. Perhaps surprisingly, the twisting and turning Guadalquivir is navigable all the way up to Seville (c85 km). It comes as no surprise then that the name comes from the Arabic al-wādī l-kabīr meaning “Great River”
The surface of this road has been gradually degrading over the past decade and some sections are now dotted with potholes but it's still reasonably drivable (with care) and there are plenty of opportunities to pull over the scan the marismas to the south or a series of large lakes between the road and river. The large numbers of Flamingos dotting the lakes are obvious but you need to look more carefully to pick out waders and the odd Marbled Duck (reduced to 13 pairs on the Coto Donana in 2022) hiding amongst the more numerous Red-crested Pochards. The scrubby marshes to the south conceal small birds including Spanish Yellow Wagtail, various larks and warblers but the prize here is Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. In my experience, one of the best places to look for this elusive species is the track near the Cortijo de Adventus.
The surface of this road has been gradually degrading over the past decade and some sections are now dotted with potholes but it's still reasonably drivable (with care) and there are plenty of opportunities to pull over the scan the marismas to the south or a series of large lakes between the road and river. The large numbers of Flamingos dotting the lakes are obvious but you need to look more carefully to pick out waders and the odd Marbled Duck (reduced to 13 pairs on the Coto Donana in 2022) hiding amongst the more numerous Red-crested Pochards. The scrubby marshes to the south conceal small birds including Spanish Yellow Wagtail, various larks and warblers but the prize here is Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. In my experience, one of the best places to look for this elusive species is the track near the Cortijo de Adventus.
Heading further north along the Carretera de Practico (which is transformed into the SE 9013 when it crosses the provincial border) can be problematical as the track can be in a particularly poor state. If you balk at driving along the track it may be worth walking a little way along it to get views of the back of the “Manegodor Salinas". If you do persevere then that track progressively improves after you reach the Cano de Yesos (c3.5 km) which is marked by two low but prominent white towers. En route you pass an area of saline vegetation worth checking for Collared Pratincoles, Lesser Short-toed Larks, Spectacled Warbler, waders, etc. Following this route makes for a delightful drive along the banks of the Guadalquivir. The river to your left acts as a highway for Slender-billed Gulls, Caspian Terns, waders, etc and whilst the farmlands to the right are intensively farmed, occasional wet spots can hold birds. The first section runs along close to the river but c4 km from the towers a broad reed-fringed channel separates you from the river for c1.5 km. This can be good for herons, Great Reed Warblers, etc. Around this point the track becomes an old but surprisingly good well-patched tarmac road.
For the next c10 km the road shifts a little away from the river to pass along an avenue of rather birdless eucalyptus trees but they do make for a delightful shady drive on hot days. You then reach La Señuela which is, arguably, the most scenic point along this drive. To the left you can access the Gaudalquivir again at a pleasantly shady spot ideal for a picnic and for scanning the river. However, the greater delight is the church on the right which is bedecked with White Stork’s nests – possibly the most photogenic colony in Andalucia. Both here and elsewhere along this route flooded fields can attrack large numbers of Collared Pratincole. At this point you can either turn down the road radiating out from Lebrija to reach the A 471 or continue north following the river along the Carretera de Practico.
Returning to the Cadiz end of the Carretera de Practico (CA 9027), instead of continuing along the riverside you can turn right towards Trebujena. At the turning is a small reserve and a little further on a track into the Marismas de Adventus which, as I’ve described previously, I won’t dwell upon here. Similarly, I’m not discussing what could be regarded as the ‘jewel in the crown’ here, the vineyards surrounding Trebujena that harbour Spain’s largest population of Rufous Bushchat. (for more details on both see https://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/cadiz-birding-blog/may-2022-update-vi-trebujena-area-going-gaga-or-going-gaaa-gaaa).
Laguna del Rincón del Prado Continuing along the river after c4 km you reach a shallow pool on your left, Laguna del Rincón del Prado (see https://ebird.org/hotspot/L3062453 ). Although it looks somewhat unprepossessing, this site can be excellent for birding with good numbers of birds (recent counts include 90 Spoonbills, 20 Purple Swamphen, 200 Collared Pratincole,1,000 Avocets, 250 Lapwing and 150+ Black-winged Stilts plus a good mix of exotics (Black-headed Weaver, Yellow-crowned Bishop, Common Waxbill & Red Avadavat have all been reported) and small passerines (including Olivaceous Warbler & Spanish Sparrow). The odd rarity (e.g. American Golden Plover & Pectoral Sandpiper) has also been found here. A further inducement to come this way is that there’s a small authentic café, Venta El Santero, here which presumably largely serves the local campesinos so prices should be reasonable. By now you’re only 8 km from the famous Brazo del Este which, admittedly, holds a greater number and variety of birds.
If you opt to return to the A 471 from La Señuela then, as noted earlier, the most direct route is to take the A 8150 back towards Lebrija. This route is erratically lined by palm trees hence it's name - Via Verde "Las Palmares". Like several other routes (see map) this track is bordered by a large canal. When full this can harbour various egrets and herons. These may linger in odd wet pools as the canal is dries out in late spring when they are joined by waders like Black-winged Stilt and Collared Pratincoles. The driest spots are also worth checking for larks and pipits. Just east of Lebrija you pass Balsa de Melendo (aka Embalse de Lebrija) on your left. I’m not sure about access to this reservoir as I’ve only visited once and then some years ago but a road off the A 8150 does permit at least a partial view of the open water. Such a large body of water is bound to attract good numbers of hirundines and swifts whilst eBird suggests it can hold several thousand ducks, mainly Shoveler including the odd rarity (see https://ebird.org/hotspot/L6218427). I've not visited the site but friends tell me that if you want to stop off somewhere to check for passerine migrants (and enjoy a little shade) then Parque de San Benito (on a low hill just east of Lebrique) is worth investigating.
If you do opt to look around Trebujena’s vineyards rather than driving along the river but still want to check out La Señuela and Laguna del Rincón del Prado then you can do so by taking the A 471 towards Lebrija but take a left turn signposted to Desguace to explore the area. Note that this turning is not well signposted so look for the turn c1 km beyond the Repsol petrol station. You may want to stop before this point as the c2 km stretch between a car-breakers yard and the Repsol garage has been flooded in the past and the habitat looks interesting. Pulling off on to a track on the left by the yard or another near the garage should permit you to scan the area. I’ve only had Montagu’s Harrier and good numbers of Lapwing and Golden Plover here but I’m told Pin-tailed Sandgrouse have been spotted near here in the past.
The proximity of better known and arguably more productive sites probably accounts in good measure why this area is often overlooked (including by me!) but for those wanting a pleasant riverside drive and the chance to make discoveries of their own then this route comes highly recommended. For the slightly less adventurous, note that Manuel Bárcena (Oxyura Birdwatching - https://oxyura.es/es/) is one of the few birding companies that visits this area so if you need an ornithological hand to hold he's the man to contact.
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