It gives me great pleasure to be able to warmly recommend El Martinete Guest House (http://www.martinete.eu) near Trebujena. Not only is it in a pleasant location with superb views across the Guadalquivir but it's also under the care and direction of Juan Martín Bermúdez. That he's a highly expert and knowledgeable birder (and former Director of the Coto Ornithological Donana station) would alone be recommendation enough but he's also a fluent English speaker, the author of several wildlife guides, founder of the innovative Salarte project (see www.salarte.org) and a thoroughly pleasant chap. Casa Martinete itself is a charming well equipped three bedroom villa ideally situated to explore the lower Guadalquivir. It's a great base from which to 'do your own thing' but if you need expert guidance then Juan Martin is available as your mentor and guide (the "Wildlife Experiences" bit on their logo). I know that admitting that there's more to life than birds is a cardinal sin for some but staying here also allows you to explore the magical cultural and gastronomic delights of the Jerez area. If like me, you're a lover of history and good sherry (there's no other kind!), as well as birds, then there's nowhere better to explore. When you half close your eyes and squint at that fabulous view across the lower Guadalquivir, you can almost see a galley pulling towards Tartessus, the near-mythical and certainly mysterious harbour city that was once here (which was quite possibly the model for Atlantis). ​

So if you're planning a birding trip to Cadiz province – and why wouldn't you? - remember that you don't have to follow the herd down to Tarifa and that you can have a wonderful and equally memorable time exploring the lower Guadalquivir and nearby sites. You'll probably return home with a longer list of birds – not to mention other species – than if you'd been based around Tarifa. Better still, if you're a tyro birdwatcher then you can avail yourself of the services of an authoritative and knowledgeable guide. ​

I'm very grateful, therefore, to Fraser Simpson (a regular visitor to the area) for the following information. Apparently you need to submit a form entitled “Modelo Petición de Autorizaciones Actividades de uso Público, Turismo Rural y Turismo Activo” which is available fro the Natural Parks section of the Junta de Andalucia. This form also seems to be available online at http://www.famp.es/famp/intranet/documentos/rio_palmones/9.%20Modelo%20solicitud%20autorizacion%20actividades%20UP.pdf (although this example refers to the Rio Palmones in the webaddress, I think that it's a standard form). I have also reproduced it at the end of this post but I suggest people check online rather than rely on the forms reporduced here. Applicants must send the signed and completed form by e-mail to pn.alcornocales.cmaot@juntadeandalucia.es addressed to the Director Conservador del Parque Natural Park. Those with good Spanish could try phoning the park headquarters on  +34 856 58 75 08 856587508 or write a letter to Parque Natural de los Alcornocales, 11180 Alcalá de los Gazules, Cádiz, Spain. It might also be worth calling at the offices of the Parque Alcornocales in person (it's situated just off the A 381 next to the information centre on the Benalup road below Alcalá de los Gazules). I've had dealing with the staff when they were located in Alcalá and found them to be pleasant and helpful (although having only limited English). Fraser's permit was for a week and was granted without charge. However, he was visiting with group of university students and has been studying a site in the Ojen valley for some years so may have been at an advantage compared to 'ordinary' birders.

Since I've mentioned him here, I'll also take the opportunity to strontgly recommend Fraser's superbly illustrated, detailed and very useful website. His trip report on his visit in spring 2017 (one of about a dozen on this area based at Zahara de los Atunes) which is well worth browsing (see -   http://www.fssbirding.org.uk/costadelaluz2017trip.htm. His notes include sonograms, excellent sketch maps and a comprehensive species list.

​Well into the twentieth century, the view persisted in Spain (and elsewhere), that marshes, lagoons and wetlands were, at best, unproductive spaces and, at worst, a reservoir for disease. Hence there was little or no opposition to draining them to convert them into farmland or using them as convenient places to dump waste (particularly from the sugar refining industry). Most notoriously, this attitude caused the loss of the iconic lake that was the Laguna de la Janda but what is less widely appreciated is that many other small, but valuable, lagunas were also lost during this period. Even the much celebrated Laguna de Medina was not immune and came perilously close to being converted into a reservoir in the mid 1950s. Perhaps, by persisting into the 1980s or even later, this negative attitude towards the environment lasted longer in Spain than elsewhere (particularly amongst politicians) but there are promising signs that the early decades of this century things have changed. Not that, as current threats to the Coto Donana and the sad tale of Laguna de Torrox (see below), remind us, there's any reason to be complacent but there are straws in the wind that wider societal attitudes are changing.

I've just finished editing my usual spring update of my birding notes on the province.  Very few changes mainly concerning revamping the section on bird guides, adding a couple of websites and suggested places to stay (more on which anon) plus trying to correct some formatting issues. As always send me a message via the contact form if you'd like a copy and I'll email them to you. They're free but a donation to a wildlife charity RSPB, SEO, etc but especially the Salarte project - birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/cadiz-birding-blog-page/salarte-project) would be very welcome. Any suggestions, corrections or updates are always welcome.  

​Since the advent of the authoritative and superbly illustrated 'Collins Bird Guide' in 1999, some may question whether there's any need for a new field guide on the birds of Europe (plus North Africa and the Middle East) at all. However, canny publishers have spotted that there is still a niche for guides that can offer something different such as using photographs rather than artwork or focussing on a more limited area. 'Britain's Birds' (Wildguides) combined both approaches by using photos and restricting the geographical range. Now a new photographic guide purporting to cover the same area as the 'Collins Bird Guide' has entered the fray - the. Birds of Europe, North Africa and the Middle East by Frédéric Jiguet & Aurélien Audevard. So how does it shape up?

​Taken together the illustrations and text make this book more functional than most photoguides. Although including extraordinarily rare birds it weems more aimed at the beginner/intermediate birder than wannabe expert as crucial details (and photos) are omitted. However, although I have a number of reservations, the whole somehow transcends my caveats to be by far the best photoguide to European birds on the market. It certainly doesn't replace the Collins Guide but complements it particularly if you want photos of all European species in one handy package. In this context, it's well worth buying. Surprisingly, perhaps, it's nearest rival photoguide is WildGuides' 'Britain's Birds' which covers Europe as well as this guide covers North Africa and the Middle East!  'Britain's Birds' is by far the better book as it has many more photos, more comprehensive coverage of plumages and birds in flight, much larger images, a far better thought out text and a flexible design. However, it has the serious drawback of being not only significantly larger and heavier but also only covers the c600 species recorded in Britain. Essentially you can have comprehensive coverage or portability but not both. Until the promised European version of the Wildguides book appears Jiguet & Audevard look set to be the definitive photoguide on European birds (although not of North Africa or the Middle East!).   Recommended (with some reservations).

As noted above the illustrations are of a very high quality. In this (like the third Spanish edition) new illustrations have been provided for a number of species (inc. male Capercaillie, juv Night Heron, winter Kentish Plover, Stonecurlew, Pectoral Sandpiper, Common Buttonquail, Barn, Little, Short-eared and Eagle Owls, Bee-eater, Roller, Great-reed Warbler, Chiffchaff, Penduline Tit, Dipper, Blackbird, Blue Rockthrush and Snowfinch). There are also new illustrations for Cory's and Scopoli's Shearwaters (the latter newly included and treated as a full species). I find the illustrations aesthetically very pleasing with only the painting of Marsh Tit falling below par. One of my few reservations concerns the illustration of spring male Pied Flycatcher which shows a bird with a large white patch at the base of the primaries (not labelled as such but typical of the local race iberiae) but extensive white outer tail feathers more resembling the nominate form hypoleuca of northern Europe. A comparison I carried out by looking at twenty 'core species' found an average of 3.3 illustrations per species in this guide which was less than half of those found showing the same species in the popular Collins Guide (8). As a result, although there are good comparison plates for eagles, skuas and gulls, the book still has fewer illustrations of females, juveniles, birds in flight, etc. than many may be used to (for example only breeding Cattle Egret with warm buff plumes is illustrated inviting confusion, unless the text is consulted, between Little Egret and Cattle Egret when in winter plumage). However, to a large degree, this is compensated by the fact that the illustrations are significantly larger and the plates much less cluttered. This makes it particularly helpful for tyro birdwatchers since it's less confusing. 
​
Several rare, introduced or essentially North African species have been 'promoted' from the appendix in the main text (inc. Bald Ibis, Western Reef Heron, Egyptian Goose, Mandarin, Lesser Flamingo, Long-legged Buzzard and Red-billed Leiothrix). Perhaps surprisingly neither Ruppell's Vulture nor Pallid Harrier, both increasingly reported, have been fully covered. Interestingly, Ruddy Duck has been banished altogether and the illustration of Barbary Falcon (now treated as a subspecies of Peregrine has gone AWOL).  The inclusion of so many introduced species - Mandarin, Egyptian Goose, Red-billed Leiothrix, Ring-necked Parakeet, Monk Parakeet, Common Waxbill & Red Avadavat – is very welcome. However, the absence of species (e.g. Black-headed Weaver, Yellow-crowned Bishop and several parakeet species) with growing populations in Spain, is a little surprising. ​

​I always used to recommended that British visitors to Spain should buy a copy of the “Aves de Espaňa” even if their Spanish was, like mine, very limited so, despite my minor caveats, I have no hesitation in recommending this English language version. It is a convenient and reasonably priced source of information, in English, that can only be found in a far more expensive reference book - “The Birds of the Iberian Peninsula” (also by Eduardo de Juana and the translator here Ernest Garcia). Enthusiasts, of course, will want both one for the bookshelf and one for the field.  Although aimed at a novice or 'intermediate' birdwatcher, this is a superb little guide crammed with useful information which any Anglophone visitor to or resident in Spain would be foolish not to have with them. Very highly recommended 
​

Well, if you can't plug your book on your own website where can you do so?  I finally got a copy of the guide which I wrote with Dirk Hilbers late last week.  As usual the Crossbill team have done a great job putting the book together and the final result looks very handsome indeed.  Dutch naturalist Dirk Hilbers deserves most credit as he  wrote most of the introduction, the text on plants and insects so my major contribution was to write up the text on the birdlife, history, about half the routes and savage the early "Dutch-English" drafts with my usual ferocity. I even contributed a couple photos (no prizes for guessing one was of Lesser Kestrel snapped from our terrace in Alcala de los Gazules). I also contributed one of the routes, some of the text and roughed up the text in the sister volume, imaginatively called the "Crossbill Guide to Eastern Andalucia" (issuu.com/crossbillguidesfoundation/docs/cg23_eastern_andalucia_issue). 

NOTE: the Crossbill Guides are NOT simple birdwatching site guides being so much moring have a much wider remit dealing with the history (particulatly as it applies to landscapes), geology, ecology and general wildlife of the region. However, they will direct you to key birding sites, special species and inform you about what to expect.

The series seems to be a little specialist for most high street bookshops to stock asa matter of course (although you may be lucky!)  but they should be able to get a copy for you.  To avoid confusion with other books in the series it may be useful to quote the ISBN - 978-94-91648-09-0.  If you're in the UK I'd recommend ordering the book from Wildsounds (http://www.wildsounds.com/menu/main.shtml) although be warned that as I write they've sold out and are currently waiting more stock - it proved to be more popular than they assumed. You can order directly from the Crossbill Guides website (crossbillguides.nl/bookstore/western-andalucia) which is more convenient if you're in the Netherlands (although they can post them to the UK).  If you're in Spain then copies should be available from www.weboryx.com/

 To see a preview of the guide online go to issuu.com/crossbillguidesfoundation/docs/cg22_western_andalucia-issue      or check the photo below. 

The realisation that these birds were, in fact, chiffchaffs with distinctive song came surprisingly late in 1913. In that year, Captain Hubert Lynes studied them near Gibraltar (see - 'The Ibis' Vol II 1914 – http://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/100092#page/370/mode/1up) and, like those before him, Lynes initially mistook the Iberian Chiffchaff's tripartite song as a local dialect, not of Chiffchaff but Willow Warbler. However, unlike others, he carefully investigated the situation. On finding a nest and collecting a specimen he realised he'd made an error and that the birds were a kind of chiffchaff. It's worth quoting Lynes' perceptive note more fully: “The only other breeding Phylloscopus (so far as we could find), was by its song, I think anyone would have agreed, a Willow-Warbler; singing males of this species shared the cork-oak glades in about equal proportion as Bonelli's. For a Willow-Warbler, true, the song was unmelodious and disjointed (“tin-potty”, if one may use such an expression), the first two notes jerked out, so that for a moment they might have been put down to an eccentric Chiffchaff, had they not invariably been followed by the four or five notes in descending scale characteristic of the Willow Warbler – in short, if it was a poor Willow-Warbler's song, it was an impossible Chiffchaff's”. He went on to relate how found a nest and eggs (which more resembled that of a Chiffchaff than a Willow Warbler) and shot the female. On examining the latter and a further six specimens he collected, he found that “with no little surprise” it possessed “all the external characters, dimensions, wing formula, emargination, etc of the typical Chiffchaff” and, although he noted the plumage was largely the same as British birds he observed that “the sulphur yellow axillaries may be a trifle brighter.” Lynes went on to note that, unlike the plumage, “the peculiarity of the song, which is constant, must have some significance” and then discussed whether the birds were resident in the area (as widely assumed) or were, in fact, migrants. It's perhaps unfortunate that Lynes seems to have collected his birds in early June when they would have been at their most worn and least likely to show their greener and yellower plumage. Had his birds shown the recognised traits of a 'good' ibericus then perhaps greater notice would have been taken of his observations. Even so, it's a little surprising that, although extensive reference was made to the Canarian race of Chiffchaff neither, he nor H F Witherby (whom he consulted) made any reference to the Iberian race of chiffchaff described over 40 years earlier. (Rear-Admiral Lynes, as he became, enjoyed a distinguished naval career retiring in 1919 after which he led several ornithological expeditions in Africa on whose birds he was an authority. Not daunted by a challenge, he wrote an important review of Cisticolas, the ultimate LBJs, for the journal “Ibis” and Lyne's Cisticola Cisticola distincta is one of over a dozen bird species and subspecies named in his honour).  ​

Having at last entered the 21st century by being given a Kindle Fire for Christmas, I realise that, in their original form, my notes were not very 'e-book' friendly since the font size and maps are rather too small for use with tablets. Accordingly, I've resized the text from size '10' to '14'  which, although still fairly small, makes it far easier to read. Most maps have also been resized too to help clarity. I experimented with an even larger text size but the length of the book started to become unmanageable so I settled for a size 14 font asa compromise. Even so the number pages has risen from 138 to 222 which will increase costs if you intend to print off the information. Should this be a problem, I am happy to supply a version with the original smaller font size.  I have also taken the opportunity to update a few minor details (but nothing significant).   For a copy use the contacts page here to get in touch with me giving me your email address or do so directly via johncantelo@gmail.com. 

People not infrequently ask me whether I fly, drive or, less often, take the train down to SW Spain.  Another popular question is which airport is the most convenient one to use if visiting Tarifa for the raptor migration.  As a result I've put together a short review of the pros and cons of the alternative ways to get down to Cadiz province and my views regarding the four airports that serve the area.  

For obvious reasons flying to Spain and hiring a car on arrival is the most popular option for birders. Driving to the airport and using secure parking may seem like the best option but remember that if you're staying for longer than a week booking a taxi work out to be cheaper. Also if things go wrong and you miss your flight claiming on insurance can be easier if you've used a reputable specialist taxi firm. Such firms also often know sources of congestion and how to avoid them better than the average motorist! My preference is to get to the airport in plenty of time to enjoy a relaxed breakfast/lunch before departure. Depending on where you live going by train can be convenient too although nothing beats being picked up by your own chauffeur after a tiring late afternoon flight home! ​

Flights take about 2 hrs. 50 mins. but remember you have to get to the airport at least an hour in advance and that landing, taxi-ing, passport control and picking up a hire car can take 45+ minutes (and often longer at larger busier airports). My record is to be in the hire car and on the road within 25 minutes of touchdown at Jerez airport. I always book a hire car through “Do You Spain” (http://www.doyouspain.com/) who not only search out the keenest rates also act as a useful intermediary in the case of any dispute with the car hire company. Some years ago a car I'd hired from 'Firefly' broke down near La Janda and the hire company wanted me to pay the cost of a taxi to pick up a replacement at Seville (then their nearest base). As a regular customer of 'Do You Spain', they stepped in and the demand was dropped (I've heard of other such examples). They also have excellent English speaking staff.   

​Malaga
Pros – a large modern airport with excellent facilities served by all the major UK airlines with direct flights from more than a dozen UK airports and elsewhere in Europe
Cons – at peak periods there can be long queues at passport control, for hire cars, etc. Most birding sites a longish drive (c1hr 50 to Tarifa).

Being served by so many carriers (e.g. EasyJet Monarch, Ryanair, British Airways, etc) from so many regional airports (Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, Doncaster, Edinburgh Gatwick, Leeds, Liverpool, Luton, Manchester Newcastle, Southampton & Stansted), Malaga is the most convenient choice for many travellers despite being almost two hours from Tarifa and other prime sites. Another downside is that queues at passport control and for hire cars (esp. in peak periods) can be long and bargain flights seem harder to come by off-season when smaller airports are struggling for trade. All the major hire car companies (and several minor ones) operate out of Malaga but be warned that some of the lesser well known ones have inconvenient restrictions on car use (e.g. returning the car to them if you do in excess of acertain milage for a replacement vehicle). Being close to the toll road (AP7) means you can soon be on your way towards Tarifa and the Straits. This road is much less congested (apart from around the airport and a couple other sections) and faster than the notoriously busy (and dangerous) coastal road the A7/N 340 so the tolls (10€ one way) are money well spent. Malaga has excellent bus and rail connections to the rest of Spain.

Although most main birding sites are rather distant (with Fuente de Piedra a 50 mins drive away being one of the nearest), Malaga airport has a little gem, the Guadalhorce reserve, on its doorstep as it's less than ten minutes by car. However, the high incidence of thefts from cars makes this a risky place to visit with a car full of holiday luggage. Parking away from the immediate vicinity of the reserve near centres of activity (e.g. the school, restaurants, etc.) may help. En route (after c1hr 20 mins) you pass close to the Sierra de Utrera (Manliva) so a short detour here can be worthwhile for species difficult to see around Tarifa (e.g. Bonelli's Eagle & Black Wheatear). 

​​By Car (via Channel ports or Santander/Bilbao)

I've never attempted to drive to Spain from the UK but then I'm not overfond of driving (and particularly not with the steering wheel on the 'wrong' side of the car!). Note too that, unless you intend to stay in Spain for an extended period, then flying and hiring a car is probably the cheaper option. It's about 23 hours driving time (all but two hours on motorways) from Calais to Tarifa which should cost c124€ in tolls and 220-300€ in fuel (2016 figures). The AA recommend you drive no more than 8 hours a day and take a break every three hours but remember driving on the 'wrong side' of the road can often be more tiring. Hence although some drivers do the drive in two days (with a single overnight stop), it's safer and more sensible (even with several drivers) to take at least three days with two or more overnight stops. Unless you intend to stay in Spain for an extended period then flying and hiring a car is probably cheaper.

A popular alternative is to take the car ferry to northern Spain. Brittany Ferries operate between Portsmouth (Santander & Bilbao) and Plymouth (Santander only) and take 20-24 hours. This cuts the driving time by about half (c12 hrs with c11 hrs on motorways) and the costs (2016) to about 28€ in tolls and 100-150€ in fuel (although the journey from Santander is marginally shorter and less expensive in tolls). You also have the chance of seawatching or whale watching en route. I know a few drivers who've done the drive across Spain in one go but given the comments above (and bearing in mind that few get a decent rest on a ferry) it's far safer (and more pleasant) to break the journey and stay overnight at least once. The ferry isn't cheap and the fare structure varies by season and size of car (see http://www.brittany-ferries.co.uk/). However, once you factor in the cost of a Channel crossing, savings in fuel and tolls and the need for fewer overnight stops then the price is competitive.