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The Art of Serendipity

25/6/2014

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PictureLlanos de Libar - Montejaque
Finding sites to put into my notes has been a lot of fun.  For many of them it's simply been a matter of visiting places covered in the half-a-dozen or more site guides for Spain that have been published over the years.  Even these well known sites often have a surprise or two up their sleeves since it's inevitable that printed texts are, to some degree, out-of-date even before they're published.  Some even contain basic errors. Laguna de Medina, one of the best know sites in the area, is a good example of this.  Most published guides fail to mention either the hide there or an alternative viewpoint on its western rim - both of which have been open for a couple of years now.   One source even claims, falsely, that there's a path right round the laguna – apparently a misinterpretation the map showing the reserve's boundary.  Less surprisingly, none comment on the sharp recent decline of the two main target birds – White-headed Duck and Crested Coot – at this iconic site or the recent colonisation by Olivaceous Warbler.

A few sites I've heard about through word of mouth.  A prime example of this is the Llanos de Libar in Grazalema.  Who'd have guessed that a narrow concrete lane which slips into the back of Montejaque takes you onto a dirt track that weaves its way along a gorgeous valley for a dozen km into  mountains?  I wouldn't have, had not Peter Jones  taken me there. If he hadn't done so I'd have missed a superb area which  pretty much all my birding friends have elected as their favourite site. Not surprising so as Bonelli's Eagle, Black and Black-eared Wheatear, Orphean Warbler, Rock Sparrow, Alpine Accentor (winter) are pretty much guaranteed and other good species can be reasonably hoped for (e.g. Common Rock Thrush). 

PictureLaguna de Paja - Chiclana
Another category are those sites that I've 'stumbled across' as I've pottered around the region.  Admittedly a good proportion of these are 'second rank' sites with less to offer than those ones featured in the standard bird finding guides.  Places like the  'Ruta El Abejaruco' walk (Vejer) make for a pleasant stroll rather than supply a cornucopia of remarkable birds or a long list.  Others though are much more than that – when wet the Laguna de Paja (Chiclana) holds White-headed Duck, 
Purple Gallinule, Ferruginous Duck and much else.  A prime example of a serendipitous discovery is the Mesa de Asta Marsh – not hard to find since it's just off the main Trebujena-Jerez road.  Yet in many respects this site – often wet when other places are dry and thus stuffed with birds – deserves greater recognition than many much more 'fancied sites'.  I first realised something good might be in the offing when I noticed, as I drove along the A 2000, flock after flock of Gull-billed Tern all hurrying low across the fields in the same direction.  The low shimmering sheets of water that shortly appeared on my left were alive with birds and I estimated c700 Gull-billed Terns to be present.    On subsequent visits I haven't found quite so many Gull-billed Tern, but I've had many hundreds of 
Whiskered Tern, large flocks of Collared Pratincole, dozens of Slender-billed Gull, White-headed Duck, Purple Gallinule, Montagu's Harrier, a wide variety of waders and much else.  

However, the discoveries that I've made from the comfort of my home back in the UK are in some ways the most pleasing and satisfying.  A few have been made from poring over maps, but more often than not they've been the result of a careful study of Google Earth.  Most of these have been no more than a more convenient way to reach a particular site (Laguna de Jeli for example) or the best the best access point (e.g. Laguna de Ballestera).  It's more difficult to spot good habitats, even wetlands and lagunas, from satellite images than might be imagined, but  a drop-down menu on Google Earth allows you to highlight  'parks/recreation areas' and 'water bodies' which certainly helps.   Unfortunately, many parks aren't wildlife friendly and heavy abstraction means a good number of 'water bodies' are no more.  However, thanks to a combination of 'Street View' and 'Panoramio' photos it's usually possible to check out sites 'on screen' without having to  actually go there in person!  
PictureLocation of Bonanza Pools
The notorious one-way system in  Sanlucar and traffic congestion en route to Bonanza saltpans and the Gudalquivir, is best avoided.  Accordingly, some years ago I  browsed Google Earth for an alternative route, finding one in the CA 9027 which avoids both  Sanlucar and Bonanza.  If aiming to visit La Algaida pines or the Gudalquivir this route is shorter and, even if backtracking to the saltpans, it's often a less stressful and quicker drive.  It was by taking this route one February that I discovered 'Martin Miguel Pools'; hardly a promising site, I probably wouldn't have stopped had not a flock of Little Gulls been drifting about above them.  When I did stop, I discovered a couple of wintering Whiskered Terns, White-headed Ducks  and, later in the year, found that the field here held a large Collared Pratincole colony (although it was largely deserted in 20014).  In browsing Google Earth back home I'd also came across a handful of small pools nearby, but, being off route, I probably wouldn't have detoured to look at them had they not a 'Panaramio' photo of the site shown a group of White-headed Duck.   

PictureWhite-headed Duck - Bonanza Pools
Although this site is only a couple of kilometres from Bonanza saltpans, one of the best known sites in the area, its  small size and moreover its location, tucked away as it is in a maze of narrow lanes, means it is almost entirely unknown.  Yet despite its size it punches well above its weight.  Finding what I'd already dubbed  'Bonanza Pools' (although 'Camino Colorado Pools' might have been a better name) on the ground proved surprisingly easy – just turning off the CA 624  onto Camino Truncosa takes you, after many twists and turns, to the pools. There are three main pools and a much less interesting fourth one (see map).  The first you reach coming from the CA 624 - (i) on map - is easy to view from the raised road, but, as parking here is tricky, it's the one I've scarcely explored. Fortunately the other two pools - (ii) and (iii) on the map - are easily viewed from Camino Colorado although care needs to be exercised at the road can be surprisingly busy. A fourth laguna - see (iv) on the map - is much nearer Bonanza, but when I've looked has been overgrown and almost dry. It may be worth a look in very wet springs. 

At first sight, early one spring, the three somewhat scruffy pools, surrounded by 'poly tunnels and dotted with rubbish, didn't look inspiring.  However, a closer look revealed several White-headed Ducks floating around at far closer range than at any other site I know. Mixed in with them were even more Red-crested Pochards and a few Black-necked Grebe.  Carefully picking their way through the reeds, in which Great Reed Warblers were belting away, were a number of Purple Gallinules.  Subsequent visits have regularly turned up Little Bittern (for which it's the most reliable site I know) and, although I've missed them myself, Marbled Teal are regular here and others have seen Ferruginous Duck.  Better still, in recent years Crested Coot have also been present.  Whether it's anything to do with my notes or this blog I don't know, but in recent years more birders have discovered 'Bonanza Pools'.  In short, this minuscule site is currently far better for special sought after Andalucian species than well known and highly regarded sites like  Laguna de Medina!  


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    About me ...

    Hi I'm John Cantelo. I've been birding seriously  since the 1960s when I met up with some like minded folks (all of us are still birding!) at Taunton's School in Southampton.  I have lived in Kent , where I taught History and Sociology, since the late 1970s. I've served on the committees of both my local RSPB group and the county ornithological society (KOS).  I also worked as a part-time field teacher for the RSPB at Dungeness.  Having retired I now spend as much time as possible in Alcala de los Gazules in SW Spain.   When I'm not birding I edit books for the Crossbill Guides series.

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