One of the disadvantages of birding holidays abroad is that you inevitably tend to hit the known honey pots and ignore unknown, if potentially, interesting areas. With limited time and a list of birds to see this is a good strategy to maximise your chances of success. This is dynamic changes once you start visiting the same area for lengthy breaks as I have been doing these last few years in Cadiz Province. Whilst there are still individual species I want to know better and birding spectacles, such as raptor migration, that I never tier of seeing, a major incentive these days is finding those out of the way spots most drive past. Unfortunately, although I’m ‘time rich’ when I’m out in Alcala, the increasing cost of a hire car means I don’t always have a car. Oddly when I do have a car my ‘other half’ likes to do things other than birding!
Accordingly, finding out about sites and habitats is sometimes a matter of accumulation rather than outright discovery. A few years back I was driving back from Sanlucar de Barrameda late one night along back roads when I got hopelessly lost. Twisting along some narrowlane, somewhere at the back of Cadiz Bay, a massive fantastical bird suddenly rose from the verge or the road. It looked so huge in the headlights that for a micro-second I thought “What’s a Griffon doing out so late?” before I realised that it was a gigantic Eagle Owl! With only a few days left of our break and a non-birding spouse to consider, I didn’t manage to get back to the area again until the following spring. Driving the same route in daylight, I appreciated what the owl liked about the place – it was right next to a massive rubbish tip (a)! Understanding though my wife is, regular outings to the local tip comes pretty low on her list of priorities so although I’ve been back a couple of times in the late evening I’ve never managed to reconnect with an Eagle Owl. What I did notice, however, was a sign pointing down a track signposted to “Salinas Santa Maria” which I filed for future reference. At less than 15 minutes from the popular Laguna de Medina, this was a site worth a second look.
Map of the area - (a) rubbish tip, (b) salinas, (c) pinewoods & (d) alternative track (see notes)
This spring I managed to find the time, at last, to take a closer look. The first surprise was that the gravel track (b) was in very good condition. However, the appearance of a rapidly approaching dust cloud signalled the arrival of a huge lorry thundering its way towards the distant saltworks. These lorries aren’t that frequent, but they do mean you have to keep a sharp look out and be careful where you pull over. The wide grassy fields at the start of the track held little but had plenty of Collared Pratincoles hawking to and fro. The odd marshy channel and pool detained a few passing terns and herons, but none were too close to the road.
Slender-billed Gull
After a kilometre or so the fields on the right gave way to the saltings that border the southern bank of the Rio Guadalete whilst to the right large salinas came into view. Between them they both attracted a healthy range of waders – Grey, Ringed & Kentish Plovers, Whimbrel, Curlew, Little Sint, Dunlin and Curlew Sandpiper. There were also good numbers of Slender-billed Gull. Although none of the waders presented themselves at the close range that such birds strut their stuff at Bonanza, the variety seemed much the same. Several paths run down from the track to the riverbank and might reward further investigation.
Lesser Short-toed Lark on the track across the salinas
As ever in southern Spain, birds of prey were present too - Marsh Harrier, Black Kite, Booted and Short-toed Eagle – but not in the kind of numbers I usually see along the Guadalquivir nor with quite the same variety (I missed Red Kite for example). However, several larks flitted along the track – all the larger ones I saw were Crested, but most didn’t show too well for confident ID. In contrast, the smaller larks were far more obliging. The first few were Short-toed Larks, but mixed amongst them were a few delightful Lesser Short-toed Larks. These birds were far more obliging than I usually find them at Bonanza although the time I got my camera in position they had decided to be less helpful! Things became less interesting as you approach the bridge over NIV and the salinas on the far side of this busy road are dominated by a large Yellow-legged Gull colony.
So, is the site worth a look? Well, to that I’d give a definite ‘Yes’ although a somewhat qualified one. If you’ve plenty of time and plan to visit the Sanlucar area, then heading straight for Bonanza will probably get you more birds and of a greater variety too. They’ll most likely be at closer range as well. Then again, if you’ve had such a thorough look at Laguna de Medina that you find yourself ‘pushed for time’, a quick foray to this conveniently placed site will allow you to pick up some interesting species. Arguably, it’s also one of the best sites to look for that much wanted, if subtle, little bird, Lesser Short-toed Lark. Not that I've fully explored the area yet - (c) on the map marks an attractive pine wood that looks perfect for Red-necked Nightjar and a track (d) here launches straight out across the marshes to the distant salinas. So as a bonus you have a chance to explore a lesser known area and add to the sum of knowledge!
Directions from Laguna de Medina
Directions:
From Laguna de Medina go over the A381 and take the A3202 past the cement works towards El Portal (make sure you ignore the service roads at either end of the bridge!). Go under the E5 and continue along this minor road until you reach a crossroads. Turn left here onto the CA 3113 which skirts a huge area of marshes and salinas. Drive past the rubbish tip and the track to the salinas is a little further on after a cuple of bends. It's about 9km from Laguna de Medina and should take c15 minutes to reach the salinas. I've had no further luck with eagle owl here, but there are huge numbers of Cattle Egrets and White Storks, and in season Black Kites) around the tip. The road beyond the tip (swing left by the gates at the top of the hill) offers fantastic views over the lowlands here.
From Laguna de Medina go over the A381 and take the A3202 past the cement works towards El Portal (make sure you ignore the service roads at either end of the bridge!). Go under the E5 and continue along this minor road until you reach a crossroads. Turn left here onto the CA 3113 which skirts a huge area of marshes and salinas. Drive past the rubbish tip and the track to the salinas is a little further on after a cuple of bends. It's about 9km from Laguna de Medina and should take c15 minutes to reach the salinas. I've had no further luck with eagle owl here, but there are huge numbers of Cattle Egrets and White Storks, and in season Black Kites) around the tip. The road beyond the tip (swing left by the gates at the top of the hill) offers fantastic views over the lowlands here.
The salinas looking east from the bridge over the N IV
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