Cueva del Gato
Despite the attractions of various wetlands, coastal habitats and open rolling farmland vistas, the two consistently popular sites with birders who visit us in Alcala de los Gazules are the Molinos valley and the Llanos de Libar (near Montejaque west of Ronda in the Grazalema Natural Park). Despite the first being only five minutes from the village, it’s the second, a long 90 minute drive, that’s the most popular. In truth, I’ve never driven there in much less than two hours. It’s not so much that I’m a slow driver, but rather that the route, through the heart of the Alcornocales and into Grazalema Natural Park, makes it impossible not to stop. A stop below Picacho is hard to resist. Futher on there’s the Mirador Mojon de Vibora with a fantastic view of Grazalema (not to mention Thekla Larks nearby). Then there’s the GR7 long distance footpath that plunges into the oak woodlands. The narrow valleys and limestone ramparts of the Grazalema Park has dozens of distractions. Distractions aren’t entirely avian; most notable are the Cueva de la Pileta, which contains numerous ancient cave paintings, and Cueva del Gato, a huge chasm ripped into a cliff face above the railway. So it requires a strong will not to make one, two, three, four or more stops at likely looking spots and even if you resist there’s always a chance something good will fly over!
Map of Llanos de Libar
However, supposing you fend off the temptations en route what awaits at this site that makes it so irresistible? Well, first of all, the scenery is superb. The Lllanos de Libar track allows access to open pasture, oak woodlands limestone ‘pavements’ and craggy cliffs.. Better still you can access the more montane habitats without walking. The limestone too hosts numerous attractive flowers including peonies and a variety of orchids. But it’s the birds that attract! First problem, though, is how to reach the track. A nondescript village road – Avenida de Europa – swings off the MA8403 at the northern end of the village. The Refugio de Libar is signposted but it’s easy to miss. Drive down the concrete road for a few hundred metres and then turn sharp right onto the track. The short account below assumes, unless otherwise stated, that you’re visiting in spring or summer (although, as you’ll see, autumn/winter can be fantastic too).
Llanos de Libar (looking back towards Montjaque)
The first stop is a white building to the left (a). From here you can scan the cliff face for Bonelli’s Eagle. I’ve had birds at very close range here and, in a dozen or so trips, have never failed to see them. There’s plenty else to see in the form of Rock Buntings, Blue Rock Trush, Sardinian Warblers and Woodchat Shrike (a common bird in the valley). Drive a little further and the road dips down to a rocky field (b) behind the village. This field often has Black Redstart, Thekla Lark and, if you’re very lucky, may attract a Common Rock Thrush. You may have heard the sneezing chirrup of Rock Sparrow too, but they’re easier to find further along. En route, don’t forget to pause to look at the small pool besides the track and above the field since it always attracts a variety of small birds.
Carefully follow the track upwards round the spur of the hill and you’ll find the surroundings increasingly rocky. Continue up to a grassy ‘saddle’ (c) flanked by limestone ‘terracing’ – it’s always worth spending a while here. In spring the flowers are superb. This is a better place to catch up with Rock Sparrow as the scraggy bushes on the cliff to the right conceals a small, noisy colony. If you haven’t seen them before this is where you’ll see both Black Redstart, Black-eared (summer) and Black Wheatear (resident). In late autumn and winter the rocky slopes also have Alpine Accentor and Ring Ousel! Here too you may have Griffon Vulture, Short-toed or Booted Eagle drifting over. Look carefully at all raptors since not only do you get the usual migrants but both Ruppell’s Vulture and Long-legged Buzzard have been found in the area!
Pannaging pigs
Tearing yourself away from this idyllic spot can be hard, but walk (or drive) up to where the track bends to the right. This is often worth it, and not just for the welcoming shade, as Orphean Warblers sing from the scattered trees and both Dartford Warblers are possible in the scrub. Just beyond this point the Llanos de Libar throws in a surprise as the track unexpectedly drops down to a small area of flat, open arable land. There’s rarely much to see here so continue on into the oak woodlands (d) beyond. Stop here to admire the handsome pigs that forage in the opens woodland. (Take particular care here as the road enters the woods as this section of the track is often in the worst condition).
Refugio de Libar
The oak woods hold plenty of Bonelli’s Warblers, Firecrests and Mistle Thrushes plus the odd Subalpine Warbler and Common Redstart. Climbing up further, you find yet another surprise as the woods suddenly give way to an area of flat open pasture (e). Park here and explore. Here you’ll probably hear the distant nasal clatter of Red-billed Chough, but look out too for both Cirl Bunting and Iberian Grey Shrike. If you’re on foot you can continue down to the village of Cortes de la Frontera where I gather you can get a taxi to take you back to Montejaque. (Note - You need to be pretty fit to tackle this walk). This is a fabulous area with many ‘A’ grade birds and some of the most attractive scenery in Andalucia. Despite that long drive, it’s a place I always try to visit.
I’m indebted to Peter Jones (‘see www.spanishbirds.com) for showing me the place – one of his regular haunts - where he's had Wallcreeper in several winters so if visiting in that season watch the cliff faces very carefully! If you want a great day out with a professional local guide contact him at the above address.
Good birding!
John
I’m indebted to Peter Jones (‘see www.spanishbirds.com) for showing me the place – one of his regular haunts - where he's had Wallcreeper in several winters so if visiting in that season watch the cliff faces very carefully! If you want a great day out with a professional local guide contact him at the above address.
Good birding!
John
Llanos de Libar - looking towards Cortes de la Frontera
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