Sierra San Bartolome from near the venta on the N340 I first wrote about the Bolonia area in this blog in March 2011, but since then I've found the excellent Laja de la Zarga and discovered more about the site in general. Hence I make no apology to returning to what remains one of my favourite sites in the area.
Heading towards El Lentiscal from the N340 it's difficult to ignore the hulking bulk of the Sierra San Bartolome (a) to your left. This impressive craggy limestone massif understandably attracts climbers, but it is often also the target of spiralling flocks of White Storks. The views across to Africa from here rival or even better those from the Sierra de la Plata; mainly because this great mass of limestone isn't in the way! The minor roads and footpaths here are worth exploring too since Rufous Bushchat has been seen here. This area has its own minor place in ornithological history as the southern face of the rocky extrusion was where Griffon Vultures were first photographed at the nest in Europe. The account of this trip by a trio of politically naive undergraduates on the brink of Spain's Civil War makes fascinating reading. How did they manage to haul a hefty half-plate camera into position and what would they have given for one of today's mega-zoom digital cameras? It also serves to remind us of the debt we all owe to modern field guides (Peterson wasn't published for another twenty odd years). Above all it's extraordinary just how ill-informed a party of well educated Britons were about the state of Spain in the 1930s when radio was in its infancy, TV a mere dream and the internet simply unimaginable! If you'd like to know more just search online for a copy of the “Quest for a Griffon” by Robert Atkinson (Pub. 1938) - it's well worth reading.
Heading towards El Lentiscal from the N340 it's difficult to ignore the hulking bulk of the Sierra San Bartolome (a) to your left. This impressive craggy limestone massif understandably attracts climbers, but it is often also the target of spiralling flocks of White Storks. The views across to Africa from here rival or even better those from the Sierra de la Plata; mainly because this great mass of limestone isn't in the way! The minor roads and footpaths here are worth exploring too since Rufous Bushchat has been seen here. This area has its own minor place in ornithological history as the southern face of the rocky extrusion was where Griffon Vultures were first photographed at the nest in Europe. The account of this trip by a trio of politically naive undergraduates on the brink of Spain's Civil War makes fascinating reading. How did they manage to haul a hefty half-plate camera into position and what would they have given for one of today's mega-zoom digital cameras? It also serves to remind us of the debt we all owe to modern field guides (Peterson wasn't published for another twenty odd years). Above all it's extraordinary just how ill-informed a party of well educated Britons were about the state of Spain in the 1930s when radio was in its infancy, TV a mere dream and the internet simply unimaginable! If you'd like to know more just search online for a copy of the “Quest for a Griffon” by Robert Atkinson (Pub. 1938) - it's well worth reading.
The southern aspect of San Bartolome - above in 2014 and below in the early 1930s (from 'Quest for a Griffon')
At the top of the ridge (b) before you drop down to the coast it's also worth stopping, esp. during easterlies, for migrating raptors and checking along the hog's back for Tawny Pipits, Black-eared Wheatear, etc. The above 'hirundines' and swifts that frequently hawk overhead are worth checking too. The track here also sometimes has Rufous Bushchat.
In quieter times of the year it's worth checking the mouth of the stream (c) at El Lentiscal for Kentish Plovers and other waders. It's always worth a quick look out to sea for Cory's Shearwater and other seabirds (or raptors like Black Kites barely struggling ashore). The bonus here is that you should be able to do so from the comfort of a beachside bar! The stream here used have a reputation for being a top spot for Rufous Bushchat but this no longer seems to be the case. Turning away from the beach and heading past the remains of Baelo Claudia (good for Little Owl and Black-eared Wheatear in quieter times) you soon find yourself heading up towards the Sierra de la Plata.
View south from Sierra San Bartolome
Cueva del Moro (top left) From here most birders press straight on up to the Sierra de la Plata, ignoring all turnings to reach Cueva del Moro (d) above El Lentiscal (Bolonia). This spot, with its reputation as a hot spot for rare swifts, must be one of the most popular birding destinations in the Straits. Along with La Janda and the official raptor watch points, it's one of those places, especially in spring, where you're almost guaranteed to see other birders, if not the sought after swifts, should you spend an hour or two there. The cave itself is high above the road and has is metal grating across the entrance. This was not put in place, as you may think, to protect the rare swifts that occur here, but the delicate ancient rock paintings. Disgracefully, these suffered damage from more recent graffiti scrawled by tourists in the 1990s.
Little Swifts - a principle target here .... Even if you pick a day when birds are scarce, you'll certainly have stunning views across the straits which alone are worth the drive. In fact, you'd have to be very unlucky indeed to miss Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin and Griffon Vultures here and, in the “summer” months you've a good chance of Egyptian Vulture too. There's a good chance of hearing Golden Orioles in the trees although seeing them is a different matter! Better still, if the winds are from the east, migrant storks and raptors sometimes pass low overhead. In addition to the expected Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Black Kites, Honey Buzzards, etc., both Eleonora's and Lanner Falcon have been seen here. However, despite its reputation, I must confess that despite dozens of visits I've only seen White-rumped Swift here once and Little Swift a couple of times. I find the other side of the Sierra de la Plata around Atlanterra far better for the first and the mouth of the Guadalquivir (where they're almost unmissable) incomparably better for the second. If you do give it a try then mornings (before 10:00 AM) and evenings are considered the best times. Birders are notorious for their tendency to haunt well known 'honey pots' at the expense of other areas nearby that would repay a visit. This is certainly the case here so, instead of a long vigil at the cave alone, try exploring surrounding habitats - you're unlikely to be disappointed.
Laja de la Zarga
The hide ..... As already noted visiting birders, in their haste to reach Cueva del Moro, drive straight past a good concrete track on the right (c2 km from the turning to the museum). However, those that decide to slake their curiosity and take this it will not be disappointed. This narrow road twists and turns through typical low vegetation which holds all the expected species – Stonechats, Sardinian Warblers, Woodchat Shrikes etc plus the occasional Black-eared Wheatear. After just over 3 km the concrete gives way to a solid gravel track. If you turn off to the left and continue uphill for c1.5 km you reach a small rocky peak with great views over the strait. However, your best option is to press on for a further 800m along what is now a good gravel track until you reach a small finca. Here a rough dirt track heads off to the left to give good views across a huge rock face. This is Laja de la Zarga (e) – a site well known to 19th century ornithologists like Howard Irby and Willoughby Verner, but, until recently at least, largely forgotten today. Since Irby's day a large hide has been built here which makes it a good place to pause and have a some lunch. Sitting here you'll certainly see Griffon Vultures cruising along the cliff face and have a very good chance of Egyptian too. Naturally, being near the coast pretty much any migrant raptor can be expected, but the big prize here is Bonelli's Eagle. Although you can see them in the Ojen valley and elsewhere in the Alcornocales, in my experience this is one of the best places near the Straits to look for this charismatic species. I've also seem Alpine, Common and Pallid Swifts here and here's no good reason why the two rarer swifts shouldn't turn up too (although the crags are more distant from the track here than elsewhere).
Egyptian Vulture over Laja de la Zarga
The lighthouse at Punta Carmarinal Returning to the main route up to the Cueva del Moro, there's one more variation that is worth considering. Just under a kilometre from the track to Laja de la Zarga you can pull over on the left by a path that takes you down to Punta Carmarinal (c1.5 km). Before you head downhill, it's worth checking the rocky bluff on the other side of the road – I've seen Little Swift hawking above the bluff here more often than I have by the cave. Whilst the track down to the lighthouse at Punta Carmarinal is not usually very exciting birdwise, it's still worth keeping an eye out for migrants in the trees (e.g. Redstarts and Pied Flycatchers) or raptors overhead during spring and autumn. A path from the lighthouse runs further down towards the sea and in favourable conditions can be good for seawatching – look for Cory's and Balearic Shearwater and Audouin's Gull. Remember, though, that the walk back up the track can be hot and tiring … so one option is to persuade the car driver to drive round via Zahara (c45 mins) and meet you by the lighthouse. (NB despite what some maps indicate you cannot drive directly from El Lentiscal to Atlanterra).
The whole area is one that repays further investigation and exploration. Rendering its delights down to a single stop for one, or even two, particular species, as many do, is to short change one of the most attractive destinations in the area. Doing so when birds are migrating is doubly foolish as a leisurely exploration could well turn up a bird like Roller or, if banking subspecies for a potential 'armchair tick are your thing, Iberian Green Woodpecker (apparently a recent colonist here). If nothing else you really ought to visit the wonderful archaeological remains at Baelo Claudia.
RSS Feed
