Untapped potential ...
Map from an excellent poster on the area (see below)
I first read about this iconic site in in the early 1960s when I found a copy of "Portrait of a Wilderness" in my school library. Before the decade was out I, and some like minded school friends, were on our way south in an old Bedford van to explore the area. We were armed with precious little 'gen' (much from Mountfort's book or gleaned, by guesswork, from the Peterson's field guide). It's difficult to believe in these days of instant access to the latest bird news and a plethora of trip reports online just how difficult it was to find out about the birdlife of southern Spain. Unfortunately, Mountfort said little about the site and still less about exactly where it was - somewhere between Vejer de la Frontera and Tarifa we thought. All was not lost, though, as at some petrol station en route we'd laid our hands on an 'Esso' road map of southern Spain albeit one with a huge scale. And there in just the right place wasa blue dot so it was with some excitement that we headed along the road from Vejer to Tarifa. When no laguna appeared, we just assumed that, such was the scale of the map, we'd somehow missed it. In reality our error was not one of map reading, but of timing as the last remnants of the lake had been drained only a few years earlier in 1967. I still rather resent the fact that after decades of trying the drain the place, they finally managed it just before I got there!
Crane's nest on La Janda - from Willoughby Verner's book 'My Life Among the Wild birds of Spain' (1909) La Janda was once the largest, if very shallow, natural lake in Andalucia and rivalled the Coto Donaña in terms of rare and scarce species. Although some of them may have sometimes coalesced into one unit, it may be more useful to talk of several lagunas - Janda, Jandilla, Tapatana, Tapatanilla, Rehuelga, Espartinas and El Torero - rather than just than one. The latter laguna was one of the larger 'sister lagunas' and had the reputation of being the best for Crested Coot and ducks. As late as 1895 the area once accommodated a colony of 30-40 pairs of Common Cranes, but the last pair bred in 1954 Common Cranes. Some authors even hint that Demoiselle Crane may have done so and there are enough old records of African Marsh Owl to suggest that they were once regular visitors and perhaps even bred too. The wetlands were once a community resource, but post Civil War such communal ownership was an anathema to the Franco government and his supporters. Besides, one of the main beneficiaries was the village of Casas Viejas which was so notorious as a hotbed of anarchism that the name was changed to Benalup. So in 1946 a 99 year lease was granted to a local business - Barbate SA (transferred to a different company in 1965) - to drain and the exploit area as farmland, but this was only achieved in 1967 thanks to state finance. A cynical left leaning friend reckons that the concession was undervalued as a sweetener to local right of centre businessmen, but even so the lease doesn't come up for renewal until 2045.
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Asociación Amigos de la laguna de la Janda's poster on the site Despite this, powerful arguments for restoring the wetland have been advanced by the Asociación Amigos de la laguna de la Janda in conjunction with the University of Cordoba (see -http://www.lagunalajanda.org/bases-para-su-restauraci%C3%B3n/). Yet there still seems to be powerful interests at work who do not want to see this project advanced. One would imagine that the 'Congreso Nacional de Conservation y Restoracion de Humedale National' held in nearby Jerez in November 2015 (see - http://www.congresohumedales2015.es/) would have been an ideal place at which to discuss this blue riband project. Unfortunately, a presentation of these plans at the congress was 'pulled' at short notice by the Spanish Ministry of the Environment (who organised the conference) despite having previously been accepted by the scientific committee of the Congress. The excuse was that there wasn't enough time to do so in the two day congress to do so seems particularly 'thin' given that it was clearly more directly linked to the topic under discussion than some presentations that went ahead. Instead, the promoters of this excellent initiative were limited to presenting a poster which I reproduce here (which can be downloaded at http://1drv.ms/1SIZe4x). Compared to several eye wateringly expensive and useless vanity projects (see http://www.theolivepress.es/spain-news/2015/11/20/ten-corruption-scandals-bubbling-under-in-andalucia/) restoring the Laguna de La Janda would seem to make a lot of sense, but powerful interests appear to be against the idea. Interestingly, the Amigos de la laguna de la Janda calculate that such a project would cost less than the restoration of the far smaller Laguna de los Tollos since no expensive remedial work is needed to seal off clay pits to restore the hydrology, but, to over simplify, merely blocking various drainage ditches. The likely rewards would be far greater. The big question that needs answering is what the impact on local employment rates would be since this continues to be a major problem in nearby Benalup and elsewhere (see - www.theguardian.com/world/2011/nov/20/spain-benalup-unemployment-euro-crisis). I don't know the answer myself, but if you visit the area it's not unusual to see large gangs of people working in the low lying fields. Yet if this is seasonal work done by migrant labour then local communities might benefit from the more steady employment that the restoration could bring.
An historic photo of La Janda before it was drained - from the excellent website of the Asociación Amigos de la Laguna de la Janda Much of the old lake bed is given over to rice cultivation and when the paddies are flooded, as they are in late May, you can get a tantalising idea of what we are missing. It also serves to remind us just how easy it would be to restore large areas to its former glory. The view (below) shows just a fraction of the site and gives some sort of idea what could be achieved relatively easily. Even if, at the present time, it seems a no more than an unrealistic dream to restore even a small part of this wonderful area, dreams do sometimes turn into reality so I'm sticking with hopeless optimism!
Looking towards the site of the former Laguna El Terero from near Vejer showing flooded rice paddies in May 2013
(Despite being a pale shadow of its former self La Janda remains a tremendous draw for birdwatchers across Europe - apart from 'local' Spaniards I've met birders from Austria, Belgium, Denmark, England, Finland, France, Germany, Holland, Scotland and Wales at this site. At the moment most visit as an adjunct to a holiday to see raptors crossing the Straits were it developed to its full potential then the possibilities are both enormous and likely to extend throughout the year. Eco-tourism might just be the answer for some of the area's long term unemployment problems.
I've been revising my notes on this area recently and decided to redraft the coverage of La Janda so that they assume arrival along the N 340/E 5 from Tarifa (or Vejer de la Frontera). I had originally written them as if arriving off the CA 212 near Benalup which, coming from Alcala, is my usual route, but the truth is most visitors tend to enter the area from the N 340 particularly, as noted above, in the autumn when many birders tend to stay near Tarifa. The comments that follow are an amended version of those notes.
I've been revising my notes on this area recently and decided to redraft the coverage of La Janda so that they assume arrival along the N 340/E 5 from Tarifa (or Vejer de la Frontera). I had originally written them as if arriving off the CA 212 near Benalup which, coming from Alcala, is my usual route, but the truth is most visitors tend to enter the area from the N 340 particularly, as noted above, in the autumn when many birders tend to stay near Tarifa. The comments that follow are an amended version of those notes.
Visiting La Janda
La Janda map
Facinas from (a) The most popular entry point if you arrive, as many do, from Tarifa, is opposite the turning for Zahara (d - see map). From here you quickly drop down to the track along main channel from which many of the most sought after can be seen. However, for those who are interested in less well trodden paths there are several interesting diversions before you get that far. You may not see anything you won't find elsewhere, but you're more likely to have the place to yourself. (That said a Pallid Harrier was recently seen in this area!) The old royal caňada (a) that links Facinas and Benalup) branches off the CA 7200 a little less than 100 m from the junction with the N340/E 5. The fist 3 km or so (i.e. to the river) is usually in reasonable condition. The first couple of km runs through open grassy fields between a couple of large wind farms, may have Tawny Pipit, but often the more interesting area is where the track dips down to a small river (Arroyo de Cerona). The scrub (b) here can hold a variety of birds (esp. during migration periods) such as Hoopoe, warblers and flycatchers and in autumn/winter has a good roost of Corn Buntings (200+). The next 1-2 km from here is the most likely to be very badly rutted and impassable. Back on the N 340 it's always worth stopping at Bar Restaurante Apolo XI which is one of the best ventas in the area with an excellent reputation for its food (and is somewhere you may often bump into other birders in the autumn). At the southern edge of the village of Tahivilla (opposite the venta) there's a second diversion. This is a 3 km track (Camino de la Dehesilla sometimes referred to as the 'cemetery road') that runs into the rolling fields (c) and affords splendid views across agricultural land. This has had Little Bustard in the past and may still do so, but it remains good for Montagu's Harrier, Stone-curlew and larks.
Hoopoe - the plumage is surprisingly cryptic when they feed amongst dry grass & thistles Most visitors' first decent view of La Janda comes when they turn onto a dirt track (d) opposite the road (CA 2221) to Zahara de los Atunes (take care here and signal well in advance as the turning onto the track isn't signposted). It's tempting to drive straight down to the old lake floor below, but it's often worth pausing at the top of the slope to scan across the whole area – in winter (late Oct-March) this can be a good way to locate flocks of Crane (wintering numbers generally vary between 700 and 1,500 birds). As you drive the c1 km down to the central track across the marsh, depending on the season, look out for migrants (Hoopoes, Woodchat, etc), raptors and, for the last c400 m or so, herons or Green Sandpipers feeding in the track-side ditches. The corner at the bottom of the slope (e) is a popular place to stop for another scan across the area. Check the fields not neglecting the irrigation machines that often hold resting raptors (esp. Black-winged Kite) and regularly scan the skies.
Short-toed Eagle - if you drive the main track in autumn you'll inevitably see the species perched up on pylons It's just under 6km between (e) and where the track turns towards Benalup (f). Birders will struggle to drive the whole length without several stops. To one side are attractive rice paddies whilst to the other there's a wide reed fringed channel. The paddies attract hundreds of White Storks and Glossy Ibis plus many waders (esp when the rice has been harvested) whilst harriers (Marsh all year, Montagu's in the summer and Hen in winter) hunt the fields and aerial feeders (Pratincoles, Bee-eaters, swifts, and hirundines hawk overhead). To the other side, the reeds along the channel are worth checking for Great Reed Warbler, small herons and the channel itself for Otter (but be aware that Mongoose which also occurs in the area). Beyond the open fields have many of the same species found on the rice paddies plus Calandra Lark. Check flocks of small passerines for Spanish Sparrow. Short-toed Eagles often perch on the pylons along the route and the whole area is a mecca for migrating birds of prey (now annual reports of Pallid Harrier in late autumn/winter, regular sightings of Lanner and in recent years several reports of Lesser Spotted Eagle).
Glossy Ibis over La Janda
After 6 km you reach a turning to the right which crosses the main drainage channel (f) whilst to the left it continues back towards the main road (N 340). The rice field hereabouts tend to be one of the better areas when flooded. Turning right is usually the more productive option, but don't omit checking the channel and reeds by the bridge as you do so. (It's also worth checking throughout the spring, summer and into October here, and elsewhere along the route, for Zeller's Skipper a rare, but increasing, butterfly largely restricted in Europe to the Campo de Gibraltar). Shortly after turning right there's a 1.5 km straight stretch (g) that runs alongside an active egret colony (mainly Cattle Egret, but with a few Little and usually some Glossy Ibis). By using your car as a hide you can obtain some super views (and should get far better photos of these species than me! Note - be careful not to disturb the nesting birds. At the end of this straight stretch pull over by a large weir. This is often one of the most productive places to scan for birds – particularly raptors such as Black-winged Kite (esp evenings on pylons/irrigation machines), Bonelli's Eagle (autumn/winter) and increasingly Spanish Imperial Eagle (an reintroduction programme has increased numbers in Cadiz province). Check the reedy stream here for Bluethroat and Penduline Tit in late autumn/winter.
Little Owl are often seen in the farm yard From the weir cross the bridge and continue towards Benalup (the track is sometimes flooded just after the bridge, but is negotiable with care). Continue for c2 km and pull off just below the small hill top finca and by a small (private) track to obtain an excellent view across the old lake bed; another location to spend time scanning for Spanish Imperial Eagle and other raptors. Pass through the farmyard (often good for Little Owl) and continue along the track (now metalled) which follows the ridge (i) for c2km. As with elsewhere, raptors often drift over here whilst the scrub can hold Woodchat etc. The track then drops down (c1 km) to a T-junction where there are some reedy pools and, nearby a bridge (j). Red-rumped Swallow often nest under the bridge and the channel (or the rice fields) may have Purple Gallinule. The road from the bridge along the ditch up to Presa del Celemin (m) can be worth checking as the wires here often hold migrating Bee-eaters and the ditch other species (e.g. Green Sandpiper). The gravel track to the right (k) was repaired in 2011 and takes you, in theory, all the way to Facinas (c19km), but is subject to heavy degradation in wet winters. The first stretch heads gently up hill (woods here have Red-necked Nightjar) and the higher dry ground, as elsewhere, frequently attracts hundreds roosting Black Kites in August. After c6 km the area opens out around a small stream and increasingly have good panoramic views over the area – another good area for Black-winged Kite and all other raptors many of which drift along the nearby ridge. As with anywhere in the Campo de Gibraltar check all buzzards carefully, some may show features of cirtensis Long-legged Buzzard ('Gibraltar Buzzard'), but seeing the 'real thing' isn't impossible. These drier fields may also have Little Bustard (note that Great Bustard is now extinct in the area). According to the booklet “Birds from the Coast of Trafalgar” (see http://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/cadiz-birding-blog-page/birds-from-the-coast-of-trafalgar) you can rejoin the N 340 just south-east of Tahivilla by taking the track c14.5 km from (l) although exercise caution as the text doesn't make it entirely clear whether this is on foot, by cycle or in a car. The stretch from here to (b) is in a very poor state and difficult even in a 4x4 so be prepared to retrace your steps back to (l). (NOTE - a recent post on the 'Bird cadiz' website (http://birdcadiz.com/especie/laguna-de-la-janda-recorrido-largo) suggests that this route is drivable).
Red-necked Nightjar - La Janda is a good place to see this species
Bluethroat often conceal themselves in reedbeds From (l) head back towards the Benalup stopping after c500m to view an old ox-bow (n). Before the rice has been harvested this is often the best spot for finding waders – Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover, Black-winged Stilt, etc. (Note – be patient and keep on the main track here as if you drive round the ox-bow on the rough track, as some do, it disturbs the birds). Another 2 km further on the track crosses another bridge which crosses the Rio Barbate. You can pull off onto a track on the left here (o) to check the fields (Montagu's Harrier, etc) and scrub (good for Cetti's Warbler and passing migrants). Another c1 km on and a track runs up to the left towards Benalup (linking to a minor road the CA 2111 back to Vejer) and a further c500m on a track goes off to the left to reach the Rio Barbate (this is a reedy spot worth checking for Bluethroat). The fields in this area have had Little Bustard in the past, but may now be too disturbed. You finally reach the CA 2112 in another 700 m (p) – note that until recently this whole section (l to p) was a very badly potholed but in 2015 most - but not quite all - of the potholes in the concrete were filled and the road is now easier to drive.
Common Sandpiper - a bird of subtle charms Here (p) you can either go left for Benalup (from which you can head for Vejer, Medina or Alcala) or right towards Algeciras and the A 381. Turning right, after 4.2 km to a road to your left takes you to Presa del Barbate - a detour that can be worth it as Osprey now nest there. However, by continuing straight on for another c2 km you reach the Embalse el Celemin (q). Not worthy of a special diversion perhaps, but if passing it may warrant checking as, like all reservoirs in the area, it can attract large numbers of swifts and hirundines and its gentle banks often have Little Ringed Plover, Common Sandpipers, etc. Above the embalse is the Cueva del Tajo de las Figuras (http://www.andalucia.org/es/turismo-cultural/visitas/cadiz/otras-visitas/cueva-del-tajo-de-las-figuras/) which has some of Europe's earliest bird paintings (currently closed to the public, but it may yet re-open).
Juvenile Bee-eaters are duller than adults - hence are far less often seen in photos! Returning to point (f) on La Janda you head left if you wish to return to the N 340 (4 km). Returning this way is a good option if you've not enough time to explore the whole area or are heading back towards Vejer. Although all of the waders, raptors etc mentioned so far can be seen along this stretch, as a general rule it tends to be less productive that other areas. However, I've seen wintering Black Stork and Roller along this track so keep looking! The point where the track meets the road (r) is often particularly good for Bee-eaters whilst Eagle Owl has been seen on the pylons here in the evening. About 250 m towards Vejer on the N 340 there's a large picnic site (s) where you can pull off; it's not a high profile site, but you can get views across parts of the old lake that are otherwise out of sight so worth checking for wintering Cranes as well as a pleasant place to stop for a snack.
The information here, and in my notes, should help you enjoy a profitable visit to the area, but if you'd prefer to have an expert on hand then check out these recommended tour guides:- - Javi Elorriaga & Yeray Seminario http://birdingthestrait.com/ based in Tarifa
- LuisMi Garrido Padillo, a good personal friend who runs Andalusian Birding
Holidays (http://andalusianbirdingholidays.com) from Jerez
- Luis Alberto Rodriguiez (Birdaytrip) - (http://www.birdaytrip.es/) - who specialises in the Malaga area.
- Peter Jones, one half of Spanish Nature (http://spanishnature.com) based near Ronda,
- Andrew Fortuna runs Aviantours (www.aviantours.net/home.html) out of Gibraltar
- each guide/company has different priorities and areas of expertise so contact them to find who best suits your needs.
The information here, and in my notes, should help you enjoy a profitable visit to the area, but if you'd prefer to have an expert on hand then check out these recommended tour guides:- - Javi Elorriaga & Yeray Seminario http://birdingthestrait.com/ based in Tarifa
- LuisMi Garrido Padillo, a good personal friend who runs Andalusian Birding
Holidays (http://andalusianbirdingholidays.com) from Jerez
- Luis Alberto Rodriguiez (Birdaytrip) - (http://www.birdaytrip.es/) - who specialises in the Malaga area.
- Peter Jones, one half of Spanish Nature (http://spanishnature.com) based near Ronda,
- Andrew Fortuna runs Aviantours (www.aviantours.net/home.html) out of Gibraltar
- each guide/company has different priorities and areas of expertise so contact them to find who best suits your needs.
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