Before the advent of motor vehicles and good roads, trade was carried out in mountainous areas of Andalucia via narrow paths with goods carried on the backs of horses and mules. Distances now covered by car in hours then took a whole day or more to negotiate. This was fine if the weather was good and the distances between villages were not too great but in more remote areas simple refugios provided basic overnight accommodation or shelter during storms. A taste of what these places must have been like can be gained by reading Peneleope Chetworth's book "Two Middle-Aged Ladies in Andalusia" (1963) which recounts her travels on horseback in the high sierras north of Grenada in 1961. Astonishingly, as late as the 1960s tabernas in remote areas operated much as they had done for centuries by catering for travellers on horseback.
I've been able to find out little about the simple but handsome Refugio de Libar but I'm told that it was constructed in the late 1700s and facilitated trade between Montejaque, Cortes de la Frontera and other villages in the area. It is under the care of Montejaque council and still open for overnight stays by arrangement with them (although I've been unable to discover further details). There's a basic communal kitchen, dormitories and, presumably, bathroom/toilets of some sort. It would certainly be a magical experience to stay here overnight and awake to that gorgeous view. Without exception, every visitor I've taken there has agreed that it was one of, if not THE, highlight of their stay and one even called it a "spiritual experience" rating it amongst the top 3 sites he'd ever visited.
The route up from Montejaque provides some excellent birding with Blue Rockthrush, Rock Sparrow, Woodlarks and Black & Black-eared Wheatears (although the latter two have, I think, declined in recent years). As with anywhere in the Parque Natural de la Sierra de Grazalema, the skies should be scanned for vultures (Griffon & Egyptian are regular and both Ruppell's and Black have been reported), eagles (Golden, Bonelli's, Booted and Short-toed) and other raptors. The open woodland below the rocky scarp face a few hundred metres beyond the Refugio is the best place I know for Orphean Warbler which are most easily located when in song. Apps and websites make it easy to familiarise yourself with their song but I still find mnemonics helpful and to me the closing phrase always sounds like "hurdy-gurdy-gurdy". In winter Alpine Accentors inhabit the meadow by the Refugio.
This is a wonderful place and well-worth the tortuous 1 hour 45 minute drive from Alcala de los Gazules and even the 2 hour 10 minute drive from Tarifa. One day I'll be more organised and stay in Montejaque for a couple of nights (if not the Refugio itself) to enjoy the place at dawn and without the prospect of a long drive home.
I've been able to find out little about the simple but handsome Refugio de Libar but I'm told that it was constructed in the late 1700s and facilitated trade between Montejaque, Cortes de la Frontera and other villages in the area. It is under the care of Montejaque council and still open for overnight stays by arrangement with them (although I've been unable to discover further details). There's a basic communal kitchen, dormitories and, presumably, bathroom/toilets of some sort. It would certainly be a magical experience to stay here overnight and awake to that gorgeous view. Without exception, every visitor I've taken there has agreed that it was one of, if not THE, highlight of their stay and one even called it a "spiritual experience" rating it amongst the top 3 sites he'd ever visited.
The route up from Montejaque provides some excellent birding with Blue Rockthrush, Rock Sparrow, Woodlarks and Black & Black-eared Wheatears (although the latter two have, I think, declined in recent years). As with anywhere in the Parque Natural de la Sierra de Grazalema, the skies should be scanned for vultures (Griffon & Egyptian are regular and both Ruppell's and Black have been reported), eagles (Golden, Bonelli's, Booted and Short-toed) and other raptors. The open woodland below the rocky scarp face a few hundred metres beyond the Refugio is the best place I know for Orphean Warbler which are most easily located when in song. Apps and websites make it easy to familiarise yourself with their song but I still find mnemonics helpful and to me the closing phrase always sounds like "hurdy-gurdy-gurdy". In winter Alpine Accentors inhabit the meadow by the Refugio.
This is a wonderful place and well-worth the tortuous 1 hour 45 minute drive from Alcala de los Gazules and even the 2 hour 10 minute drive from Tarifa. One day I'll be more organised and stay in Montejaque for a couple of nights (if not the Refugio itself) to enjoy the place at dawn and without the prospect of a long drive home.
RSS Feed
