One of my main objectives when I visited Cadiz province this spring, my first extended birding trip there for over five years, was to visit several sites to which I felt I hadn't done justice or which I knew badly needed updating. One of these was the Barbate estuary as I'd never really felt happy about my coverage of the site in my notes. In large measure, this dissatisfaction was due to the disconnect between what I'd found 'on the ground' and what a couple of leaflets on the area told me. According to a leaflet - ‘Mapa Guia Ornotologico’ - I picked up some years back several footpaths ('senderos') allowed exploration of the area but on my previous visits I had found embankments that should have carried paths breached or prohibitive notices denying access. As a result, I found the site not as accessible as hoped and seeing a fraction of the birds present problematical. (Note that in the account that follows I refer to locations marked on the above map as Sites a to j. I have also used a satellite image to give the locations of the photos in the 'slideshow' towards the end of this account (referred to as Photos a to k - I hope this isn't too confusing!)
My exploration did not start well as I found that the Sendero Marisma Alta (just over 2 km along the A 314 Vejer-Barbate road – Site a on the inset map) was now closed. Having limited time I didn't explore further but viewing from elsewhere it looked as if the pools here are now smaller that they have been in the past. This is, perhaps, because the nearby sewage farm (a leak from which according to some fed the wetlands here) had been repaired. Further exploration will have to wait until a subsequent visit. Time constraints and a desire to check more productive areas prevented me from exploring Sites (b) & (c) which will have to wait for a future visit.
In the past, I've found that the bridge carrying the A 2231 across the main channel was a good location for finding gulls and terns (inc. Caspian Tern). However, the combination of a busy road and a narrow pavement (albeit protected by a good crash barrier) made for unpleasant viewing. I was also unaware of a very convenient place to park nearby. Happily, my search for a better place to park and an alternative location to scan this area proved successful. On the Barbate side of the bridge there's now a pleasant wooden 'boardwalk' (Site d) skirting the river and plenty of rough ground nearby on which to park. It also gives you access to a small area upstream where you can also scan for birds and, for those who insist on doing so, easier access to the bridge.
I've never found the old salinas that line the road beyond the bridge (Site e) very productive for birds beyond the odd Redshank and Black-winged Stilt. As a result I've only infrequently checked them particularly since it's easier to view the bridge by parking at (Site d) and other areas off more of interest. It may, however, be useful to know that you can pull off the road (with care) onto a track leading to some workshops/industrial buildings.
Now that the footpath near the venta has been restored and is now well signposted, it may be worth stopping at (f) - particularly if you need refreshment before exploring the eastern edge of the estuary.
Now that the footpath near the venta has been restored and is now well signposted, it may be worth stopping at (f) - particularly if you need refreshment before exploring the eastern edge of the estuary.
If you start here walk along the track and then turn right just before the working salinas/fish farm takes you onto the sendero (see Photo b). This whole area is called the Esteros de la Isleta de San Fransico but the section here is called the Esteros de Miguel Caseta, the walk along the sendero from the venta offers excellent views across the old salinas (see Photo c). Although the birdlife here tends to be less exciting than the more open and muddy expanse further to the east, it can still hold Flamingos, Black-winged Stilts and various other waders. It is also often a good area for Spanish Yellow Wagtail (summer).
Curlew Sandpiper
Alternatively, drive directly to the track near a large noticeboard (Site g/Photo d) where you can pull of the A 2231 and join the sendero mentioned above on the far side of Esteros de Miguel Caseta. Although it's possible to follow the track which loops round behind the farm buildings to the start of the sendero, I prefer to park near the road (Site g/Photo d). Parking further along the track is usually safe but makes you more vulnerable to theft. However, wherever you park be aware that in recent months there have been a spate of thefts in the area including once incident where thieves, apparently deliberately targetting birders, grabbed optical gear and cameras from the rear seat of a car just after it had been parked driving off before the driver had time to react. Accordingly, keep your doors locked even when parking and be aware of who's about. That said, although it pays to be cautious, most birders have not experienced any problems. In the past, despite the promise made in leaflets, those wishing to watch birds here were limited to the track as embankments had been breached rendering the paths inaccessible. Happily, the footpath has been repaired and is now well signposted.
A noticeboard showing the route of the sendero but note the absence of a 'compass rose' North is not at the top but to your right! Photo f shows the point where the two branches of the sendero join. In my experience it's better to take the path roughly northwards as the muddy area to your right holds more birds and of a greater variety the Esteros de Miguel Caseta to your left. All of the expected waders (depending on the season) can be seen here (e.g.Redshank, Grey, Ringed & Kentish Plovers, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, Sanderling, etc.). Amongst the familiar Yellow-legged and Black-headed Gulls you've a good chance of finding Audouin's and Slender-billed Gulls. For those who only know the species in the UK, it's refreshing to see Little Tern is present in good numbers. Flocks of terns and gulls should be carefully checked as Caspian Tern is regular here and Lesser Crested Tern has occurred. By the time the path turns sharp right (Photo g) you should have seen most of the wader species present. Your best views are to your right but keep checking to your left where the banks allows. Frustratingly, large numbers of gulls often roost just beyond easy 'scoping range or partially hidden. Although you may have seen them already the stretch between Photo h & Photo i (Site i), tends to be best for Short-toed Lark (but don't forget to check for Lesser Short-toed which has been reported in the general area). Unfortunately, the Marisma El Botellero to your left doesn't live up to the promise of its name having been covered a layer of detritus (earth, plastic bottles, wrappers, etc) but keep looking for larks (Thekla's has been reported in the area) and, in damper patches, Kentish and Ringed Plovers. After about 350m along this stretch the official path as shown on signs gives way to a track which takes you back to the start making this a pleasant circular walk. (Bizarrely, at this point, although there's no sign forbidding you from continuing, there is a Prohibido El Passeo sign - see Photo i - telling people on the track not to go any further i.e. join the footpath!). As you follow the track keep checking the islands to your right (Photo j)- they often harbour Stone Curlews. Both here and further along the track there are stands of small trees (see Photo k) to your right. During passage these should not be ignored as they can attract a range of migrants - a quick search in April 2019 turned up both Pied & Spotted Flycatchers, Iberian Chiffchaff, several Subalpine Warblers, Bonelli's and Melodious Warblers.
The route of the sendero with locations of the photos (see below) marked. The circular walk and better access to the habitat has made Barbate a much more rewarding site to visit than previously. So much better that I've re-written my account plus enlarged and redrawn my map of the site. As usual I found a spot of cartography oddly relaxing but as it also meant splitting my original map in two (as it also covered the La Brena - Trafalgar area). As a result I then had the tedious & tiresome task of re-numberng 39 subsequent maps after Map 33. That's how much I like the site but don't take my word for it but go and see for yourself!
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