

Other raptors included the inevitable Griffon Vultures, one or two Egyptian Vultures, Booted & Short-toed Eagles, Osprey, Common & Honey Buzzards, Marsh Harrier, Common & Lesser Kestrels, Sparrowhawk and a single Goshawk. It was also pleasing to confirm that at least some of the larks along the track are Thekla's although, since I've also seen Crested Lark here, every bird needs to be carefully checked. As with almost anywhere in this part of Spain on a decent day during late August and September, the scrub contains more Redstarts, Pied & Spotted Flycatchers than you could hope to see for a whole autumn in my home county of Kent.

I'd particularly recommend trying a menu del dia (which provide three courses & a drink for as little as €8.50 although €12+ increasingly seems to be the norm).at roadside ventas (look for ones off the tourist routes with crowded car parks! Even if you go to a more upmarket restaurant like Cortijo los Monteros (convenient for Valcargado as it's near Benalup) eating out at lunchtime is surprisingly good value for money.