Little Bustard at Valcargado in spring several years ago It's something of a shock to realise that I first drove along the Cañada de Valcargado well over a decade ago. On that occasion, I was looking for Little Bustards having already seen them elsewhere in the valley formed by the Arroyo del Yeso (a tributary of the Rio del Alamo). Happily, I was successful, and I obtained good views of a calling male not far from the start of the track. As my focus was on finding steppe habitats that might hold bustards, I was a little disappointed to find that the rest of the track climbed up through unsuitable habitats for bustards. Hence, I was less interested in what else the area might offer than I should have been. So, despite returning many times since, I generally only drove one or two kilometres along this nine-kilometre track (a) to look for Little Bustards, Stone Curlew, Montagu's Harrier and Black-winged Kite. Unfortunately, recent searches for Little Bustard here haven't been successful, perhaps indicative of their sharp decline in Spain despite their continuing presence elsewhere in the Campo de Medina. This short-sighted approach made me under-appreciate the fact that the track pierced a wild hilly area with plenty of old olive groves, scrub and rough grazing. I should have realised that the panoramic views particularly at the end of the route (as far as a non-4x4 vehicle's concerned) made this an ideal place to scan for passing raptors.
So, when my friends Richard & Michelle Page-Jones told me that they were going to take me to a favourite site of theirs, Valcargado, this autumn I initially failed to recognise the name. Fortunately, new signs on the A 2225 now make the track hard to miss. As we drove further along the track than I was used to doing, it dawned on me just how mistaken I'd been to overlook this excellent area for so long. We had Bee-eaters, numerous hirundines, many small migrants and finches and larks galore but what struck me most of all was the opportunity that the wide vistas gave for scanning for raptors. A network of rough undrivable (unless in a 4x4) tracks radiating from the far end of this route (b) link up with routes back to Benalup or across to Alcala de los Gazules (just visible beyond the windfarms).
Ordóñezqui & Hemmingway In the 1950s the Valcargado estate was owned by a famous bullfighter, Antonio Ordóñezqui, who was good friends with both Ernest Hemmingway (whom he called Father Ernesto) and Orson Welles (whose ashes were buried on Ordóñez's estate near Ronda). The presence of his grander-than-average finca and similar properties along the cañada doubtless explains why it's kept in such good repair for most of its length. Apparently, the estate is still owned by his family so perhaps it's not a surprise that blood sports such as hunting continue to be an important activity on the estate.
The BoPs, especially the Honey Buzzards, were passing over very high so Chris did well to get identifiable photos
Accordingly, it's no surprise to see so many Red-legged Partridge (Sp: perdiz roja) along the track and in the fields. For Brits, it is perhaps surprising to find what the Spanish call Aguila perdicera (Partridge Eagle), better known to Anglophones as Bonelli's Eagle, is a frequent visitor here too. Surprisingly, although not entirely blameless, Spanish hunters seem to be far more tolerant of birds of prey than many of their British equivalents. On half a dozen visits here this autumn I saw Bonelli's Eagle every time which is a better 'hit rate' than any other site for this species I know. Not only that, but on most visits, I saw multiple birds here culminating in a group of four birds (3 juveniles and a 2nd year) and a fifth juvenile on the way out. It is interesting that all were sub-adult birds suggesting that this is an important area for birds dispersing from more mountainous breeding sites. The juvenile plumage of Bonelli's Eagle is superficially similar to that of dark morph adult Booted Eagles. Although Bonelli's are larger than Booted (L -55-65cm vs 45-51cm; W/s 143-165 cm vs 110-135 cm; Wt 1600-2500g vs 840-1250g) juveniles can be confused with the rufous form of the smaller species although, with experience, the Bonelli's different wing shape (pinched base broader middle & tapering tip) and a proportionately longer tail should distinguish them. To my eye the Booted is buzzard-like whilst the Bonelli's has a whiff of an Aquila eagle about it.
Other raptors included the inevitable Griffon Vultures, one or two Egyptian Vultures, Booted & Short-toed Eagles, Osprey, Common & Honey Buzzards, Marsh Harrier, Common & Lesser Kestrels, Sparrowhawk and a single Goshawk. It was also pleasing to confirm that at least some of the larks along the track are Thekla's although, since I've also seen Crested Lark here, every bird needs to be carefully checked. As with almost anywhere in this part of Spain on a decent day during late August and September, the scrub contains more Redstarts, Pied & Spotted Flycatchers than you could hope to see for a whole autumn in my home county of Kent.
Other raptors included the inevitable Griffon Vultures, one or two Egyptian Vultures, Booted & Short-toed Eagles, Osprey, Common & Honey Buzzards, Marsh Harrier, Common & Lesser Kestrels, Sparrowhawk and a single Goshawk. It was also pleasing to confirm that at least some of the larks along the track are Thekla's although, since I've also seen Crested Lark here, every bird needs to be carefully checked. As with almost anywhere in this part of Spain on a decent day during late August and September, the scrub contains more Redstarts, Pied & Spotted Flycatchers than you could hope to see for a whole autumn in my home county of Kent.
Along with Red-legged Partridge, Rabbits are also common here so it's equally unsurprising that I had Spanish Imperial Eagles here three times - two different adults and a juvenile. The species is doing well locally as I again had one over my terrace in Alcala (as I did Bonelli's Eagle) but one of the highlights of my entire sojourn here this autumn was seeing four SIEs (an adult and three juveniles) soaring together near Castillo de Torrestrella (d). (Note that this small group was also reported near the Embalse de Barbate). Access along this road once stretched for another kilometre to a quarry just beyond the castle (and is still shown as doing so on Google Streetview) but further progress is now blocked by a gate (possibly due to the Ecologistas en Acción de Jerez denouncing the illegal rubbish tip here). This is a pity as the views further along the track were still better. It's a good track for Calandra Lark in spring (although none were present in September) and passing raptors are always a possibility. Many people staying in Tarifa visit La Janda to find both "wintering" Bonelli's Eagle and SIEs but they probably have a better chance of both exploring this fabulous area.
Access to the area from Ermita-Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Santos (c) is problematical as the track here has signs stating it's a 'camino particular' and that it's 'prohibido el paso'. These signs have always put me off exploring this track, particularly as there are other viewpoints in the area that are accessible but my friend LuisMi, who used to work in this area, had no such inhibitions when he took me birding here insisting that, signs or no signs, it was a cañada and therefore a public right of way. Certainly, none of the farm workers or hunters we saw here batted an eyelid at a couple of birders scanning the skies but visitors using this track do so at their own peril. That said, I suspect walking or cycling this route is unlikely to cause much trouble and you only have to walk a few hundred metres beyond the sign to reach a point with a good vista from which to look for raptors. Exploring some of these tracks when I finally get around to buying a bicycle in Spain will be a priority!
Chris Holt and I at Cortijo los Monteros (Benalup) It may be heretical to some but in my view travelling around Andalucia shouldn't be just about birding or even wildlife. Pit stops at ventas and wayside restaurants need not be made every day, but they make a pleasant diversion when the sun is high in the sky and the temperatures soar.
I'd particularly recommend trying a menu del dia (which provide three courses & a drink for as little as €8.50 although €12+ increasingly seems to be the norm).at roadside ventas (look for ones off the tourist routes with crowded car parks! Even if you go to a more upmarket restaurant like Cortijo los Monteros (convenient for Valcargado as it's near Benalup) eating out at lunchtime is surprisingly good value for money.
I'd particularly recommend trying a menu del dia (which provide three courses & a drink for as little as €8.50 although €12+ increasingly seems to be the norm).at roadside ventas (look for ones off the tourist routes with crowded car parks! Even if you go to a more upmarket restaurant like Cortijo los Monteros (convenient for Valcargado as it's near Benalup) eating out at lunchtime is surprisingly good value for money.
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