Cary Grant and Mae West in "She Done him Wrong" (1933) I realise I lack the obvious charms of Mae West (or Cary Grant come to that) but I'm happy to repeat her (in)famous line (see above) from "She Done Him Wrong" and invite readers of this blog to visit me if I'm in Alcala. I promise you that the Lesser Kestrels are far better than any of my etchings (if I had any).
One of the many delights of writing this blog and my site guide has been meeting fellow birders who've used them. Sometimes I do so by prior arrangement, sometimes we happen across one another by chance in the field (or elsewhere) and less often birders, usually in search of a good photo of Lesser Kestrel, just appear outside my house in Alcala de los Gazules. The attraction, of course, isn't anything to do with me but the fact that massive old tower (part of the town wall) is regularly home to 4 or 5 pairs of Lesser Kestrels (see right). Few houses can boast such a large, impressive and solid 'nest box' attached to the side of their house (although, in truth, it's more the other way round). On spring evenings I regularly enjoy the spectacle of 30-40 (and sometimes 80-100) of these falcons cheerfully chattering away above the terrace and we often watch one another at eye level as they perch on the trees opposite.
One spring I bumped into a birder (suitably equiped with binoculars) and his girlfriend in a local supermarket. Although staying in the village, he hadn't yet had good views of Lesser Kestrel. Naturally, he was promptly invited to join me on the terrace as, fortunately, it wasn't too far from where he was staying. As he thrilled to the views of the birds, I noticed a car pulling up outside the house from which a group of Spaniards, all decorated with high-end optics and cameras, burst forth. Fortunately, they spoke some English and I was amused to hear that they'd driven to Alcala from Madrid and had arranged to meet a second car load of birders with the specific aim of watching Lesser Kestrels outside my house. The street was, they told me, 'the best place in Spain for watching Lesser Kestrels'. Naturally, I corrected them, pointed at the terrace and invited them up to the actual premier spot for this superb colonial falcon. A few minutes later they were joined by their fellow Madrileños whose arrival meant there were now a dozen birders on the terrace watching them, still a record.
This spring was no different. About to make my breakfast one morning, I looked out of the kitchen window and spotted a birder trying to get photos of the kestrels. It turned out he was French birder and expert photographer, Rodolphe Cirouw. A few minutes later he was esconced comfortably on the terrace getting much better views of the target species. A tostada and coffee quickly followed, well I could hardly gobble my desayuno in front of him could I? Happily, he has kindly allowed me to post some of his shots (see above). I have to admit, though, that my favourite shot is not one taken from the terrace but of a bird emerging from it's nest site in the Iglesia de San Jorge at the top of the village some 200m further up the hill.
A few days later I'd arranged to meet a British birder (whose name, to my embarrassment, currently escapes me) late one morning. He'd asked me about seeing and photographing Lesser Kestrel when in the area and I had suggested a visit to Alcala. As I often do, since the route up to the house is tricky if you don't know it, I arranged to meet him at the bottom of the village to navigate him up to the house. This also suited me as I had some heavy shopping which I would have otherwise had to carry up the steep hill back home. My visitor followed me into the house with my shopping but when I suggested going to see the kestrels he turned to the door whilst I turned to the stairs. He was gobsmacked when he realised that the terrace was the site I'd promised to show him. I left him to it but later popped up with with a light tapas lunch. In all honesty, I can't promise everyone a breakfast or lunch (or supper come to that) but few go away without a coffee, beer or snack or some sort.
Although it's better to let me know in advance, I like spontineity so whether arranged or not by all means knock on my door if you're visiting Alcala de los Gazules. Just follow the road signs through the village towards the ruins of "Castillo de Alcala de los Gazules" at the top of the village and where a fabuolus view opens out on your left (and more prosaically where there are some large rubbish bins) just look for the house with a sticker of Andalucian Hemipode in the window. Unless encumbered with heavy gear it's better to walk up than drive as the route out by car is obscure, serpentine and narrow but if I'm at home I'll happily navigate you out again. If you drive up and find nobody at home then to exit the town take the road past the house and, as it swings to the right, take the turning that plunges down to your left towards the cemetery. This narrow (thankfully one-way) road, takes you below the ruined castle and, after an acute lefthand turn, to a T-junction where you go left for Paterna/Ubrique or right to rejoin the route by which you entered the old town. I may well not be at home (or even in Spain!) but you'll still get great views of Lesser Kestrels from the road. If photographing Lesser Kestrels is your aim then anywhen from late February to the second week of April is best as any later in spring birds perched conveniently on the trees opposite may be obscured leaves. You can still get excellent views of the birds in flight or on buildings on into the summer months but things are just a little harder. By late summer/early autumn there are far fewer Lesser Kestrels (sometimes only a handful) and even then they often only appear as they leave, or return to, their favoured roost in old buildings. Although this time can bring a steady flow of migrant raptors, the photographic opportunites are rarely as rewarding as they tend to be in spring when even an indifferent photographer like me can get decent shots (see below). If you're visiting in the winter months then you still have a chance of seeing Lesser Kestrel as a handful winter in Alcala (again most easily found as they leave or return to their roosts).
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