It may be only a slight exaggeration to say that the average UK bird reserve has more hides/screens/viewing platforms than there are in the whole of Cadiz Province. Despite a fantastic avian heritage and a slowly growing ornithological tourist industry such facilities are few and far between. At the Lagunas de Puerto de Santa Maria, for example, it’s impossible to obtain a good view across the principal laguna from publicly accessible areas. There is a path that leads to a beaten area of earth at the edge of the reeds overlooking the water which calls out for a simple screen but for whatever reason (fear of vandalism, inertia or lack of interest or finance perhaps) one has not been provided. At Lagunas de Espera there is a hide but its poorly placed and the view largely obscured by trees (a little judicious ‘gardening’ here does not seem to have occurred to anyone in my ten years of visiting the site). Even where new facilities have appeared (e.g. Marismas de Cetina) little effort seems to have been made to reach out to birding tourists without Spanish. The above complaints are, of course, probably somewhat unreasonable and unfair since being a non-Spanish speaker myself I am blissfully unaware of the political and financial regime under which the relevant authorities are obliged to operate.
View across vineyards from Trebujena towards Sanlucar, the Guadalquivir and the Coto Donana beyond
Yet it’s equally true that some authorities seem more open to actively addressing the issues than others. At El Cuervo the work at Laguna de los Tollos, largely by enthusiastic volunteers, is an example of what can be done (even if the site was very dry this year). Another stand-out local authority in this matter is Trebujena where work is at hand to restore a section of marismas and, significantly, provide an infrastructure for visitors (see photos). The signs on site suggest that the authorities here have been very good at obtaining grants and sponsorship to carry out the work. A quick search on the internet revealed photos of local children being involved in rasing environmental awareness which can only bode well for the future. On my visit in April only a viewing platform had been completed but noticeboards indicated that plans were afoot to provide hides and a shallow laguna. It’s not (yet) perfect as the path to the platform (and subsequently the hides) is across a claggy clay substrata which, when wet, makes progress across the site difficult and access up the ramp to the platform almost impossible. This shouldn’t distract from the importance of this project. The platform allows a good view across the marismas (look for Spectacled Warbler & Lesser Short-toed Lark in the low scrub, Pratincoles, raptors and, if you’re very lucky, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse in the sky). It’ll be a great spot to sit whilst watching for such birds in the shade provided by its roof. When the pools shown on the hoardings are excavated then waders, ducks & herons may well be attracted to them. There's even a pleasant venta nearby, Taberna Manegodor, which also has a view over pools that often attract herons, ducks and waders.
The new facilities alone should alone be sufficient recommendation to visit Trebujena but the area has another, perhaps even greater lure for the visiting birder and one which, once again, the local authorities seem to take great pride – Rufous Bushchat (or Rufous Bush Robin) Although I’ve long been aware that the species is found in the area (although I’ve yet to see one there) it wasn’t until recently that I became aware that it may well be the most significant stronghold for the species in Andalucia (and perhaps the whole of Iberia). I’m in good company though as I don’t think many other birders realised it either! On my return from Spain in May I read online that it has the highest density of breeding Rufous Bushchat in Andalucia apparently substantiated by a recent count of 130 breeding males in 300 hectares of vineyards (irritatingly I forgot to make a note of the web address for the source of these details). Although the official Spanish name for this species is Alzacola rojizo it is so well known locally that farmers of Trebujena use a traditional alternative name for the species, Caberrubia. So proud are they in their pueblo’s role in preserving this iconic species that a local organisation, the Collectivo Alzacola de Trebujena, has been set up to census the species, organise awareness campaigns and generally protect the bird and its environment by engaging with the local population (see the poster below). To this end they a plan to help preserve the traditional cultivation of vines, almonds, olive trees and small orchards which provide a home for this emblematic and remarkable species (see https://www.lavozdelsur.es/el-alzacola-un-ave-bioindicador-de-nuestras-vinas/ and https://www.facebook.com/colectivoalzacola/).
Hopefully, visiting birders will not only use and appreciate the new facilities provided (as noted in my second paragraph) but will also be tempted to stop off in Trebujena for a coffee or lunch break. I don’t know the place as well as I should but it’s a pleasant, friendly and typically Spanish pueblo blanco which, if you’re so inclined would make a good base for exploring the areas along the Guadalquivir. It's not co-incidental that birding expert Juan Martín Bermúdez runs a birders' guest house - El Martinete Guest House (see http://www.martinete.eu) - nearby as his expertise, drive and enthusiasm has helped to direct & galvanise these local initiatives.
If stopping for a snack, instead of leaving your binoculars in the car have them with you so the locals are aware of why you’re there so that they realise that their community’s efforts are appreciated. But if you do search for this superb bird please treat it and its environment with respect. A single thoughtless act could undermine the conservation efforts of many. Park sensibly, don’t use playback and keep to public paths and tracks. If your Spanish is up to it tell any locals why you’re there. They may be proud enough of their special bird to tip you off as to the best place to look. And if you happen to be there when the next Alzacola rojizo walk is organised then why not join in, I’m sure you’d be very welcome.
If stopping for a snack, instead of leaving your binoculars in the car have them with you so the locals are aware of why you’re there so that they realise that their community’s efforts are appreciated. But if you do search for this superb bird please treat it and its environment with respect. A single thoughtless act could undermine the conservation efforts of many. Park sensibly, don’t use playback and keep to public paths and tracks. If your Spanish is up to it tell any locals why you’re there. They may be proud enough of their special bird to tip you off as to the best place to look. And if you happen to be there when the next Alzacola rojizo walk is organised then why not join in, I’m sure you’d be very welcome.
Trebujena may be a small town but it's one that is clearly leading the way in raising awareness in its local population as well as providing facilities for birdwatching (local & visitor alike). It deserves all the plaudits that may come its way for such forward looking initiatives. I earnestly hope that larger administrations like Jerez de la Frontera will take note and develop the Mesas de Asta marshes (which has huge potential) or Puerto de la Santa Maria will do more to make their natural heritage accessible. It's certainly encouraging that nearby Puerto Real now regards birding tourism sufficiently importat to feature it (with suggestions of where to visit) on their tourism site (see http://turismo.puertoreal.es/). Things may not be moving as rapidly as I'd like but there seem to be an increasing number of promising straws in the wind ...
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