Before the onset BSE (Bovine spongiform encephalopathy) many Spanish villages used traditional “muladares” to dump dead animals. This, along with wide spread hunting, helped to sustain Spain’s large vulture population. The arrival of BSE saw the introduction of new rules banning this practice and obliging farmers (and hunters) to clear up any dead animals as quickly as possible. Inevitably, this meant a sharp reduction in the availability of carrion and a threat to the continued existence of vultures. Accordingly, "vulture restaurants" - fenced areas where carefully monitored carcasses (often horses or mules which are not vulnerable to BSE) - were created to provide these magnificent scavengers with a regular food supply. These feeding stations have since become the main food source for all avian scavengers. This has doubtless helped them to maintain, even increase, their numbers. It’s not all good news though. Evidently, their use has meant an increase in competition in the more solitary Lammergeier and a consequent decline in breeding success. Similarly, the increase in crows opportunistically using the ‘restaurants’ has cause a sharp decrease in the breeding success of passerines near these sites. Furthermore, it’s altered the habits of vultures who, rather than cruise the skies in search of food, are now more likely to loaf around near the more certain sources of food. There’s also been a worryingly large increase in the levels of veterinary drugs in Spain’s vultures. Presumably, this reflects the change in the origins of available carcasses and it’s not yet clear what the long term impact of this might be (although, fortunately, the banned drug, diclofenac, which has decimated Asia’s vulture population, is not amongst the drugs found). The days of these ‘restaurants’ may yet be numbered since a recent report suggests that the current tight regulations regarding the disposal of carcasses should be relaxed or even abandoned.
Vulture "restaurants" in the Alcornocales
Whatever the pros and cons, these “restaurants” have provided easier and more predictable places to see vultures on the ground. Unfortunately, with few exceptions, the existence and exact location of these sites has not been widely publicised. There may be valid reasons for this coyness, but I can’t help feeling a golden opportunity for both education and eco-tourism has gone begging. The excellent “Birding map of the Alcornocales” – freely available at Natural Park Information offices – does shows two feeding stations; one at Montera del Torero (just south of exit 73 on the A 381) and another below El Picacho on the A 2304 (NW of Alcala de los Gazules). Although I’ve looked in the area I’ve never been able to find the first, but have visited the site near El Picacho. This lies about 700m north-west of the A 2304 road near the “Aula de la Natrualeza El Picacho” study centre. However, not only is it completely hidden from view but also not open to the public. However, the staff at the study centre (where you can also stay) may be able to organise a visit (contact: auladelanaturaleza@elpicacho.es – see also www.elpicacho.es). Given that birds often hang around here, it may be worth finding a convenient watchpoint here from which to scan for birds (try the sendero up to El Picacho a few kilometres further into the mountains).
Signposts showing route to site
So is that it? Not quite. A new feeding station has been set up in the Alcornocales – this time signposted and open to the public. It was set up in February 2011 and good photos and text (in Spanish) describing this site can be found at http://redvoluntariosserraniaderonda...arroneras.html. It’s well signposted (look for the “Observatorio de Aves” sign) off the A373 between Ubrique and Cortes de la Frontera on the road down to Estacion del Colemenar (i.e. c4.5 km west of Cortes or 11.5km east of the turn off for Ubrique at the Mirador Mojon de Vibora).
Lotion of the "restaurant" (feeding station)
I managed to visit this site in August 2011 and, although I saw no vultures, it was interesting to see the place for myself. En route there is usually plenty to see with the Mirador Mojon de Vibora offering stunning views across to Ubrique and the limestone bulk of Grazalema Natural Park beyond. This is also often a good site for Thekla Lark. Another good stop further along the A373 towards Cortes de la Frontera is where the GR7 sendero (here a drivable track) heads into the woods. Crested Tit, Nuthatch, Short-toed Treecreeper, Great-spotted and Iberian Green Woodpecker, Woodlark, etc can all be found here. I’ve also had Large Tortoiseshell butterfly in these woodlands. The large limestone crag here is often home to a small group of for Spanish Ibex.
Continue along the A373 towards Cortes de la Frontera until you reach a turning on the left down to the Estacion del Colmenar (about 11 km). Although only a ‘pista forestal’, this small tarmac’d road is in generally good condition albeit quite narrow. This road twists and turns its serpentine way down into the valley and through attractive open woodland until it reaches El Colmenar. Indeed, it’s one of my favourite drives in the Alcornocales. All of the birds mentioned earlier occur, but in autumn the valley can also funnel good numbers of migrant raptors – in August 2010 I had 700 Honey Buzzards in little more than 40 minutes here.
Continue along the A373 towards Cortes de la Frontera until you reach a turning on the left down to the Estacion del Colmenar (about 11 km). Although only a ‘pista forestal’, this small tarmac’d road is in generally good condition albeit quite narrow. This road twists and turns its serpentine way down into the valley and through attractive open woodland until it reaches El Colmenar. Indeed, it’s one of my favourite drives in the Alcornocales. All of the birds mentioned earlier occur, but in autumn the valley can also funnel good numbers of migrant raptors – in August 2010 I had 700 Honey Buzzards in little more than 40 minutes here.
Path to observatorio
The “restaurant” itself is about 3 km from the A 373 and is signalled by a chained track with a small ‘No Entry Sign’ on your right. (This track is used to take in the carcasses down to the “restaurant”). A few tens of metres beyond this track, the road turns sharp right and you can pull over onto a wide sandy area to the left. (If arriving from the direction of El Colmenar it’s abut 14 km - look for the parking place about a kilometre after an even tighter bend where the road crosses the [often dry] river). An obvious footpath (with hand rails) here leads up the slope to an observation area. Surprisingly, the feeding area is squeezed between a long bend in the road, but, despite this, it is well screened from passing traffic.
The watch point here is complete with signs and information (in English and Spanish) and looks across to the fenced area (to keep out Foxes, etc) where the carrion is left. You have a clear view, but it is distant (c100m) so a scope will be handy. Even if feeding birds are more distant than ideal (for you if not the vultures!) then you should get good views of low flying birds. When in use expect to see Griffon Vultures and, although in serious decline, look out too for Egyptian Vultures (esp. during migration periods). A handful of Black Vultures have recently taken to summering in this area and in August-October in particular check for Rűppell’s Vulture which has also been recorded in this area in the past.
Unfortunately, the notice boards give no indication of when or how often food is distributed (although there is a email address – fauna.ronda@telefonica.net – but this is for reporting any tagged or ringed birds). Accordingly, whether you get to see vultures feeding is somewhat hit and miss. However, full marks for the authorities for setting up this resource. I gather that there’s another “restaurant” not too far from the ruins of Acinipo (NW of Ronda), but I have no details. There must surely be more vulture “restaurants” in the south-west. It’s hard to imagine, for example, that Grazalema hasn’t got one (or more) sites. So if you know of any, particularly ones which can safely be viewed by the birding public, I’d love to hear from you!
Unfortunately, the notice boards give no indication of when or how often food is distributed (although there is a email address – fauna.ronda@telefonica.net – but this is for reporting any tagged or ringed birds). Accordingly, whether you get to see vultures feeding is somewhat hit and miss. However, full marks for the authorities for setting up this resource. I gather that there’s another “restaurant” not too far from the ruins of Acinipo (NW of Ronda), but I have no details. There must surely be more vulture “restaurants” in the south-west. It’s hard to imagine, for example, that Grazalema hasn’t got one (or more) sites. So if you know of any, particularly ones which can safely be viewed by the birding public, I’d love to hear from you!
Vulture "restaurant" - Cortes de la Frontera
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