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Birding Cadiz Blog - a chronological overview of topics

14/10/2024

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PictureBirding the Palomas Estuary
My gift to insomniacs everywhere .... a chronological list of the topics (with links)  covered in my blogs since 2011. (I originally intended to list them by topic but sorting them out and rearranging the information proved to be very tedious task). They mostly deal with birding sites in the province but some deal with ID, history, culture, travel tips and the odd item about myself. These blog entries include many photos of the sites described in my guide to birding in Cadiz Province. They should give readers a good 'feel' for the habitats, scenery, etc. of the area. However, some older blogs should be used with suitable caution as they may not reflect the current situation.  

Topics covered -  
2011    
February - February Birding Blues   
March - Terrace Temptations, Black-winged Kite, Thekla vs Crested Lark ID I, Llanos de Libar, Unknown Unknowns - Finding your own Hotspots, Bolonia & Sierra de la Plata, Laguna de Medina & Laguna de Cigarrera (Lagunas de Lebrija) 
April - Little Bustards in Cadiz Province 
May - Bald Ibis Reintroduction, & Laguna de Tollos 
June - Finding Olivaceous Warbler,  & Little Bustards: an update 
July - Salinas de Santa Maria, Bloomin’ Spring 
September - 2.5 Cheers for Foundation Migres, Seeing Great Bustards in Andalucia (Osuna) Great Bustards in Andalucia 
October - Vulture Restaurants, Lagunas de Lantejuela 
December - Mesas de Asta Marsh 
2012    
January - In memoriam Susan Cantelo 
February - Molinos Valley (Alcala de los Gazules)  Cabo de Trafalgar 
June - Along the Guadalquivir (Laguna de Venta La Senuela)  
July - Marismas de Barbate (inner marshes) 
December - Honey Buzzards over Alcala 
2013   
March - Lagunas de Puerto de Santa Maria, Laguna de Paja, Lantejuela revisited, & Bustards & Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Osuna) 
May - Laguna de Paja Revisited  & Missing Lynx No Longer (Andujar)  
June - Birds from the Coast of Trafalgar (Tourist booklet), Birding Tarifa & Lagunas de Puerto de Santa Maria - update 
2014   
February - Lesser Kestrels, Adventus Marshes & Finding Marbled Teal 
March - Review: Helm Guide to Bird Identification, Birding (Rubbish) Tips & Butcher Birds – shrikes 
April - Review: Field Guide to the Birds of the Straits of Gibraltar 
May - Osuna & Lantejuela Revisited  
June - Art of Serendipity – Llanos de Libar, Paja, Bonanza pools, etc. & New Migres Centre at Punta Camorro    
July - Borderlands (History), Jimena de la Frontera (Lomas de Camara), Barbate update & Laguna de los Tollos 
August - Surf & Turf – Conil area (NB – in recent years track ‘d’ on the map has degraded badly & may be impassable) 
September - Tracks & potholes 
October - Updates & Discoveries - Pena Arpade (Alcala de Los Gazules),  Jimena de la Frontera, Sierra Utrerera (Manilva), Punta Roche & Punta Camorro (Tarifa) 
2015    
March - Andalusian Half-foot (A History of Andalucian Hemipode in Spain), Slender-billed Gull: A Rosy Gull by any other name, Review: Birds of the Iberian Peninsula & Crested vs Crested Lark Revisited 
April - Almost Widdrington’s Magpie (The discovery of Azure-winged Magpie) 
May - Bald Ibis in Spain – Historical Context, Birding Cadiz – update to my guide & Looking for Little Bustards  
July - Laja de la Zarga (Bolonia) 
September - Montenmedio  
October - Cazalla - Access Improved (Tarifa) & Birding Senderos             November - La Janda - Past, present & Possible Future & Review – Birding Calais 
2016    
November - La Janda - Past, present & Possible Future & Review – Birding Calais 
2016    
February - ID Pallid vs Common Swift, Review: Flight Identification of European Raptors (1st edition) & Updates  Cazalla (Tarifa), Tarifa & Laguna de la Tollos 
March - Spain’s Newest Psittacines (Introduced parrots) 
April - Cazalla – new access road, ID Crested vs Thekla’s Lark revisited (again), Ojen Valley (closure to vehicles) & Aliens Amongst Us (Introduced Exotics)  
May - Review: Aves de Espana  - (Note: now available in an English language version) & Reptiles & Amphibians   
August - ID: Are we missing Lesser Kestrels?, Canada de Marchantes (History), Lagunas de Lantejuela & Review: Britain’s Birds – the best photo guide yet  
September - Salarte Project (Bahai de Cadiz) 
October - Recommended Guides 
November - Getting there – air, rail, road & sea 
December - E-bird version of my guide  
2017  
January - Mysterious Mosquitero - Iberian Chiffchaff 
February - Crossbill Guide to Western Andalucía 
March - Marismas de Cetina (pre-opening), Birding Cadiz update & Review: Birds of Europe, North Africa & Middle East – Jiguet et al  
May - Ojen Valley - Permit details & Cadiz Wetlands 
September - Two site solution – Tarifa is not the only option  
2018  
June - Brief Updates - Cañada de Marchantes - Lagunas de Chiclana, La Janda, Trebujena , St Maria de Bartivas Saltpans, Barbate, Conil & Cazalla,  E-bird version of my guide & Birding Bahai de Cadiz 
July - Three Days in Andalucia – guest blog by Julian Thomas  
August - Paradise Regained? A New Future for La Janda & Cañadas in Andalucia – cultural, social & history of Andalucian droveways 
September - Wildlife Guides – video  & La Janda Revisited 
November - La Janda – a new chapter?  
December - In memoriam – Liz Cantelo 
2019  
January - Gemma’s Tribute  
March - Larking About in Morocco  
May - Barbate Marshes – Esteros de la Isleta de San Frisco   
June - Marismas de Cetina & Dehesa de las Yeguas (pre-opening of reserve), Mallorcan Interlude, Laguna Tercios (Lagunas de Puerto de Santa Maria) & Marisma Aletus (Bahai de Cadiz) 
July - Salinas de Tapa – guest blog by Nick Brown, Bits ‘n’ Bobs - Updates - La Janda, El Celemin – area recreativa, Punta Comorro (Tarifa), Laguna de Jeli & Laguna de Tollos & Further Updates - Molinos valley [Alcala de los Gazules], Along the Guadalquivir & Three cheers for Trebujena 
August - Pioneering British Ornithologists in Andalucia, Why don’t you come up and see me sometime? An invitation to birders & Barbate - Proposed new wetland  (NB - this proposal not been implemented)  
October - Blistering Bushchats!, Good news for magical marismas – Guadalquivir, The Other Pinar Algaida (Puerto Real) & Cadiz Birding (September) – guest blog Hilary McBean 
2020  
March - Thank You – fund raising for Alzheimer’s Society  
June - Review: Britain’s Birds 2nd Edition 
July - ID: Short-toed Larks 
November - Review: Swarovski 10x42 NL binoculars & Forthcoming - Europe's Birds  
2021   
April - Review: Birding & Nature Trails in the Sierra Morena (4 volumes)   
May - Wildlife Aware Vineyards (Conil) & Biggest Squatters in Spain (La Janda)  
June - Flyway Birding Association & Trebujena booklet & video link 
October - Review: Europe’s Birds – photo-guide 
2022  
February - E-birding, Pinar del Rey & Junta de Dos Rios  
March - Parque Oromana (Seville) – A Convenient Site for Azure-winged Magpie, Updates (Laguna de Medina & Marisma de Cetina), La Janda Update, Humedal El Patano (Los Palacios), Punta Camorro & the Straits, Bonanza Area, Costa Ballena & Tajo de los Figueras (History) 
May - Egrets I’ve had a few .. (Laguna de Camino Colorado), Walking Routes - Valdienfierno, Picacho, Montera de Torero & Molinos Valley (Alcala), Sojourn in Seville -  Humedal El Patano (Los Palacios), Laguna Mejorada (Los Palacios) & Parque Oromana (Alcala de Guadaira, Seville), Tale of three lagunas -  Lagunas de Medina, Taraje & de Jeli (info on the new hide & boardwalks), Marismas de Cetina - details of the new reserve & Trebujena - Going ga-gaa (Pin-tailed Sandgrouse & other birds of the marismas) 
June - Humedal Cerro de Ciguenos (Los Palacios) & Bustards and Breakfasts – (Los Badalejos, Benalup) 
August – Review: Birdwatching Calendar for Cadiz – a useful booklet & El Aguila project – La Janda (partial) restoration 
September - Laguna de Torrox (Jerez) 
October - Guest blog – October Birding in Cadiz - David Tomlinson, Monte Propios - walking routes near Algar, El Berrueco (Medina Sidonia), Desembocadura de Rio San Pedro (Puerto Real), Birding Atlantis (Mesas de Asta & Trebujena), All at Sea – a pelagic trip from Cadiz & Cañada de Valcargado  
November - The Magic of Birding the Strait – link to video by Inglorious Bustards & Guest blog: Birding Bonanza & nearby – cruise ship birding - Mike Pennington  
2023 
February - Birding the Guadalquivir, Brief Updates - Osuna, Ballena, La Janda,Lagunas de Lebrija, Humedal el Patano, Marismas de Casablanca, Los Badalejos, Portal - White Stork Colony (Jerez), Puntas Secreta & Carnero (Algeciras) & Palmones & Tour of Lagunas - Lagunas de Lantejuela [Seville], Lagunas de Puerto de Santa Maria,Lagunas de Espera, Lagunas de Lebrija, Laguna de Tollos & Laguna de Medina 
May -  Finding Iberian Chiffchaff – two quick stops off the A381, Area Recreativa Los Tornos – birds & history (Fascinas) & Finding Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Trebujena) 
2024 
March - Restoration of the Marismas de Trebujena, Marismas de Trebujena, Marismas de Henares & Pinar de Algaida & Diversion into Aragon: Finding Dupont’s Lark  
May - Refugio de Libar (Montejaque) & Return of the Rufous Bushchat 
June - Ospreys in Cadiz Province 
October - A Walk around the new Trebujena Reserve,  El Cabrito to El Cuarton, One Good Tern ... tips to find Lesser Crested Tern & Chipiona Pelagic 
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Autumn Update 4 (2024) - Chipiona pelagic

14/10/2024

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Leaving Chipiona at dawn ...
'Pelagic' birding jaunts have been popular amongst UK birders for decades but they're a rather more recent phenomenon in south-west Spain, perhaps surprisingly so.  However, they're now a regular feature of autumn birding there thanks to a handful of tour companies. In fact, they're so popular with birders and "toggers" that it's sometimes difficult to book a berth on one. I finally managed to book on a trip out of Cadiz with Manuel Morales (https://www.birdingtarifa.es/) in autumn 2022 which didn't disappoint (see here). In 2023, I joined Javi Elorriaga  (Birding the Strait - Birding the Strait) for a trip out of Chipiona (see here) which, as is the nature of these trips, was less successful than I'd hoped seeing a disappointing range of species. However, I was keen to repeat the experience this autumn. 
​Unfortunately, despite inquiring in good time, all the trips during my stay by the two companies above and a third company (https://ingloriousbustards.com) were either already fully booked or took place a few days too early or too late. Fortunately, however, Manuel Barcena (https://oxyura.es) decided to run an additional trip out from Chipiona on Saturday, September 21st. 
Since Chipiona is an hour's drive from Alcala de los Gazules and it was an early start, I opted to book an overnight stay (https://hostal-andalucia.com) in the town.  This also meant I had a whole day to explore various sites along the Gudalaquivir (see my earlier posts here and here). That evening I ate at Bar La Casa Vieja, an attractive little bar I'd seen last year (but only after I'd had a mediocre meal elsewhere). My foodie instincts proved to be spot on as the tapas were top-notch - amongst the best I've had in Spain - highly recommended. 
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Bar La Casa Vieja
And so to the pelagic ... 
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On my two previous jaunts, my companions came from a variety of countries and, as is so often the case in birding, the lingua franca was English.  So, although I knew Manuel Barcena's  command of English wasn't as good as the other two guides, I idly neglected to brush up on the Spanish seabird names. A big mistake!  This time around everyone on the boat was Spanish so all the birds were (understandably) called in that language.  My recollection that Alcatraz meant Gannet didn't get me very far!  As a result, when a shout went up for something good I had no 'search image' to help me scan for whatever was causing the fuss.  It didn't help either that some birds causing excitement (e.g. Great Skua & Great Black-backed Gull) were of relatively little interest to me.
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Fortunately, it didn't take much nous to work out that Paíño de Wilson meant Wilson's Petrel!  None of the petrels came particularly close and they failed to linger around the 'chum' that was decanted into the boat's wake but I was pleased to be able to discern, without resorting to photographic evidence, that the feet of the first paíño extended beyond the tail so confirming its identity. Unfortunately, none of the petrels opted to patter around the chum at close range like they're supposed to do. In all, I think I had nine petrels of which I thought 2, possibly three, were Wilson's and the rest Storm Petrels (Paíño Europeo) but most went by fairly quickly and distantly rendering certain ID difficult given my relative inexperience with the family.  ​
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Part of a larger raft of "Cory's" Shearwaters
My next learning curve was grasping that cries of "Pardela!" meant a shearwater was cruising past. Both Scopoli's and Cory's are loosely called Pardela Cencienta in Spanish.  It is the addition of a third word that distinguishes the two species -  Mediterránea for Scopoli's and Canaria for Cory's.     For much of the trip we were surrounded by Cory's Shearwaters (in senso lato) either flying past, circling the boat or sitting on the sea. Distinguishing between 'proper' Cory's and Scopoli's whilst bouncing around at sea is tricky even in the relatively good conditions we enjoyed. Judging the precise pattern of the underwing - the only certain way to clinch ID - isn't easy to do on a fast moving bird.  That said some birds appeared to show the white "tongues" on the primaries typical of Scopoli's and others the darker wingtips of Cory's.  I even managed to get a couple of photos with my bridge camera that appear to confirm that both species were present (see photos).  I also tried hard to convince myself that some of the birds resting on the sea had the marginally heavier bills of Cory's ... 

Happily, the Spanish name for Balearic Shearwater, Padela Balear, scarcely needed translation.  Less happily, none of Balearic Shearwaters were as co-operative as their relatives but preferred to shoot off if disturbed and kept going at a great rate of knots! 
​I had little time to consider what the words "Pardela Sombria" meant before a Sooty Shearwater appeared at very close range.  However, I panicked a little when the call went up "Pardela Capirotada!" but happily the Great Shearwater (for such it was) was also too close to miss. The Sooty Shearwater was far closer than any I'd seen before and the Great Shearwater was my first for over 50 years when I saw them from the Scillonian back in 1972!  
I always struggle to estimate the number of birds seen on pelagic jaunts. I remember that in 2023 a strangely marked partially leucistic gull appeared and disappeared at random intervals, which had it been a distinct species, could have been counted 4-5 times! Accordingly, I generally tend to err on the side of caution when estimating numbers.     

The 'official' eBird tally was as follows:
 
      10 Ruddy Turnstone  
        2 Arctic Skua 
        6 Great Skua 
        2 Audouin's Gull  
        2 Mediterranean Gull  
       X Yellow-legged Gull  
      18 Lesser Black-backed Gull  
        9 Black Tern  
        2 Common Tern  
        7 Sandwich Tern  
        2 Wilson's Storm-Petrel  
        5 European Storm-Petrel 
      87 Cory's/Scopoli's Shearwater 
        3 Great Shearwater  
       2 Sooty Shearwater  
     26 Balearic Shearwater  
     46 Northern Gannet  
       3 Little Egret  
       1 Osprey 

Although the totals for Balearic and Cory's/Scopoli's Shearwaters seem broadly correct to me, I feel that the Great and Sooty Shearwater sightings may have referred to single birds (although given the linguistic confusion I may have missed some sightings).  Similarly, I'm inclined to think the Arctic Skua may have involved only one bird  and that there may have been only 3 Great Skuas hanging around looking for an easy lunch. Conversely, the combined total of 7 petrel sp. seems on the low side and I think that I had at least 9 birds. 

The Osprey was resting on a structure well out to sea was a great addition to the day's tally and for once I knew the Spanish name - Aguila pescadora. English is almost alone in having an 'official' name for this species that doesn't refer to its piscatorial diet. This solecism is thanks to 16th century naturalist, William Turner, who, instead of using the sensible names Fish or Mullet Hawk, gave the bird its English monicker, Osprey (via an uncertain translation of Pliny's name, Ossifrage, for Bearded Vulture
).

I also had 6 Little Swifts chasing one another as we left the harbour which didn't feature on the list.  
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Despite the excellent views of shearwaters and fleeting views of passing petrels neither were the highlight of the day.  That came when we were surrounded for several minutes by a pod of c100 Common Dolphins. I was too awe struck as they raced beside and under the boat to think of taking any photos until most of them had disappeared! Fortunately, Alfonso Roldán Losada had a much more professional approach (see photo)!  A magical experience.
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October 14th, 2024

14/10/2024

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Review:Birds of Spain (2nd edition)                        - Eduardo de Juana & Juan M Varela (Lynx 2025)

14/10/2024

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I've been a big fan of this guide ever since I saw the original Spanish version over 20 years ago and was delighted when an English version appeared in 2016, so it's gratifying to see that the latest revision is now also available in English. Whilst not challenging the Collins Bird Guide's position as the premier ID guide to the region's birds, this book functions perfectly well as a useful field guide. However, where it really shines is as an indispensable guide to the status and distribution of Spanish birds. Second editions of any book immediately provoke two questions; what's changed and is it worth getting if you already have the original version?
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At first glance the most obvious change is the attractive new cover and that it's now a paperback, not hardback, book.  It's only when you compare them directly that you appreciate that the new book is a little thicker and has marginally larger pages (roughly 12mm taller and 12 mm wider).  This marginal increase does not hamper portability but has given more room for the artwork and text. The sample pages below taken from the Lynx site illustrate some of the changes made. 
As can be seen, the illustrations are largely unchanged from the original but have been rearranged so that, with the exception of the divers, sorry loons, they now all face right.  (Surprisingly, given most of the Anglophone market will be British they've used 'loons' and 'jaegers' instead of divers and skuas).  I found the new layout of illustrations surprisingly helpful when comparing species. It also helps that some of the illustrations where birds were  'hiding' behind other images have been replaced.  A number of recently 'split', rare or exotic species are now illustrated and described in the main body of the book (e.g. Moltoni's Warbler, Ring-necked Duck and Black-rumped Waxbill) rather than somewhat briefly in an appendix. More female/immature plumages are also illustrated.  This is particularly useful for Black-headed and Yellow-crowned (Bishop) Weavers (Bishop) as the Collins Bird Guide only has a thumbnail sketch of males in breeding plumage. However, it's disappointing that some birds remain "under-illustrated" (e.g. only breeding plumage adult male Common Rosefinch and Trumpeter Finch are shown). Unfortunately, the colonisation by House Bunting of Algeciras came too late for inclusion so this species still lingers in the appendix. With a few exceptions, the original artwork has been used to illustrate 'core' species although there have been some welcome new illustrations (e.g. Tawny Owl and juvenile Roller).  Many illustrations are a tad larger than previously which is generally very welcome.  However, I would have liked to have seen more varied depictions of some species even at a smaller scale particularly passerines. The illustrations of Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin and Rock Sparrow (a new one) are excellent, but there's only one for each of them. It would also have been good to have a comparison of Bald vs Glossy Ibis in flight to depict the difference in the projection of feet beyond the tail, a very useful feature at long distance.  There is a slight tendency for the illustrations to be oversaturated but not to the point where it compromises usefulness. Despite most changes being somewhat minor and limited, the artwork always attractive, now does a better job of illustrating Spain's varied birdlife.  ​
Like the illustrations, the text largely remains the same as in the original but, critically, information on population and status has been usefully updated. For example, the text now puts a figure (70%) and a timeframe (1998-2018) on the Little Bustard's "rapid and worrying decline".  There are many other subtle but useful updates like this which are supported by the excellent revised maps. Better still, each species account now has a QR codes linking the text to the SEO/BirdLife's excellent online Guia de Aves de Espana via which you can access larger versions of the maps,  photographs, videos and sound recordings.  This is a critical and useful addition which alone makes the new edition worth getting. The introduction notes that this resource is in Spanish but any smart phone will usefully (although not entirely accurately) render the text into English. I also found the text easier to read perhaps because it seems to be subtly more widely spaced.  
Along with the addition of QR codes, I found the most useful change was the abandonment of strict taxonomic order.  This meant that in the older version, for example, the coverage of swallows and martins split the account of warblers in two and, similarly, coverage of larger birds of prey was six pages adrift from the text on falcons. This is dysfunctional in a guide of this sort. This problem was compounded by an index that listed species alphabetically by their descriptive adjective rather than family name. This meant you needed to recall, for example, that what we all know as Bittern  was proceeded by "Eurasian" and not, as per the Collins Bird Guide, "Great" to find it in the index. This calamitous index remains. I'd have redrafted it by family for free! However, the birds now arranged by four broad categories; seabirds, freshwater birds, a ragbag of species embracing gamebirds, birds of prey, swifts, cuckoos, woodpeckers, etc and finally passerines (all denoted by a shaded coloured tab at the edge of the page);  a far more intuitive and functional arrangement. I found that this worked very well and made the guide much more user-friendly (although I'd have preferred a few more categories including one which didn't leave swifts over 20 pages apart from swifts/swallows & martins).  
In this review I hope I've addressed the "What's changed?" question sufficiently to give readers a good idea of how this new edition differs from the original. So is it worth replacing your old copy? For me the answer is an emphatic "Yes!".  Whilst taken individually many changes may seem relatively minor, the overall impact has been to make a good book even better; it's significantly easier to use and an even better companion volume for a narrow ID based guide. The changed and improved layout of text and plates, the more useful species order and the use of QR codes all contribute to the books greater functionality. You'd be foolish not to have a copy to hand as you explore Spain's wonderful birdlife  Highly recommended. 

​NB - I still wish they'd used the opportunity to make it a 'Birds of Iberia' by including information on Portugal!  
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Autumn Update 3 (2024) - One Good Tern ....

4/10/2024

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A selection of terns and a Slender-billed Gull at Mojiyto/La Reyerta Sept 2024
Although Lesser Crested Terns regularly occur elsewhere in Spain and, to a more limited extent, elsewhere in Europe, there's no denying the fact that they are found in Cadiz Province with greater regularity and predictability than anywhere else on the continent.  Over time they have morphed from an occasional rarity into a species that can be found in any month and, given a little effort, may be seen reliably during autumn. This almost certainly reflects increased observer awareness as much as any real change in status or distribution.  The species was first recorded in the area in the 19th century and as recently as a couple of decades ago it was considered an accidental.  Garcia & de Juana (Birds of the Iberian Peninsula 2015) observe that between 2006-2010 there were only 23 accepted records but that, given the thousands of breeding birds in Libya, it's surprising more hadn't been recorded.  There are now probably as many reports (but not necessarily as many individual birds) per annum.  ​
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Lesser Crested Tern (Photo credit - Ricky Owen)
PictureDifferences in bill shape/colour are obvious in photos but not always so easy to judge in the field!
Ricky Owen's superb photo of Lesser Crested Tern (reproduced above with his kind permission) shows the difference between this and Elegant Tern in bill shape and structure (note that to aid comparison I've reversed his original image). Other distinctions  include a a more uniformly orange bill, grey (not white) rump and darker grey upperparts (not always obvious without direct comparison) in Lesser Crested.  There should be no confusion with the larger Caspian Tern but potential vagrants like Royal Tern and West African Crested Tern (a clumsy name for what was once considered a race of Royal) could turn up and cause confusion.  

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eBird generated Bar Graph of Lesser Crested Tern frequency in Cadiz Province 2014-24
Picture10 years of Lesser Crested Tern sightings from eBird
The map above - representing ten years of observations on e-Bird - shows that whilst Lesser Crested Tern can be seen almost anywhere along the coast of Cadiz Province several 'hotspots stand out as the places to look for this species (see below).  

PictureRoseate Tern Mojito/Reyerta Sept. 2024
The regularity with which Lesser Crested Tern appears in the province has undoubtedly encouraged birders to take a closer look at flocks of roosting terns here.
I've listed the main sites where this species can often found below but I think Playa de Mojito/La Reyerta has a good claim to be the best of them all (see below).   

Consequently, it's not surprising that other scarcities and rarities have been discovered in recent years.  Amongst the former is Roseate Tern which I photographed at  La Reyerta (near Chipiona) this September. Fortunately, birders were already on site so I didn't have to search for the bird which can easily get lost amongst the hundreds of terns of six or more species regularly present in the autumn. I never think of checking for Arctic Terns here.  They're rare birds in the Mediterranean but turn up on the Atlantic coast of Andalucia in very small numbers. E-bird has no records form La Reyerta/Motijo despite the concentration of terns but there are a handful of records from Chipiona and pelagics out from there. 

Also present, but somewhat more obvious, was my target bird, Elegant Tern. I saw this species at Desembocadura del Río San Pedro in 2022 but never got the extended close views that I wanted.  Happily the bird this year was far more co-operative. The long tapering orange-based bill shading into a yellowish tip made it relatively easy to pick out although it could still get 'lost' amongst the tightly packed of Sandwich Terns. Also present on that day were Caspian, Little, Black and Common Terns but some lucky birders a few days earlier had a Lesser Crested conveniently next to the Elegant Tern. Despite it's normal range being restricted to the Pacific coast of the Americas and being a rarity on the Atlantic seaboard, Elegant Tern has been turning up regularly in Spain since the early 2000s. Remarkably, from 2009 onwards a small number have even bred at l'Albufera de Valencia (sometimes pairing with Sandwich Terns). This was so unexpected that it wasn't until genetic sampling was carried out that their status was confirmed. It is thought that this extraordinary development is linked to overfishing, El Niño events and warming seas. However, the numbers are currently small so, unlike Lesser Crested Tern, Elegant Tern is likely to remain a rare bird in Cadiz Province with records largely restricted to August and September  (see below)
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Elegant Tern at Mojito/Reyerta September 2024
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eBird generated Bar Graph of Elegant Tern frequency in Cadiz Province 2014-24
Top Sites for seeing Lesser Crested Tern:
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​1 - Mojito/Reyerta (Chipiona) - the c1km stretch of coast between La Reyerta and Punta de Motijo attracts large numbers of terns who use the area to rest at low tide.  Lesser Crested Tern is a regular visitor (esp. mid-August-September) here amongst the many Sandwich Terns.  Other terns include Caspian, Common, Black, Little and, occasionally,  Roseate Tern. A good variety of waders (Kentish Plover, etc) are present and it's also good site to catch up with Slender-billed Gull.  Avoid high tide and sunny weekends when the beach can be busy.  When the tide is out large numbers of terns and gulls rest along the shoreline and can be approached without disturbing them if you use sensible caution (easier when using a 'scope). As a result, in my experience, this is by far the best site for obtaining good views (and photos) of the target species. Visiting on a low, but rising tide (1-2 hours before high tide), has the advantage that the birds are gently pushed towards an observer rather than away from them.  As the low tide mark can be a a couple of hundred metres beyond the beach bring flip-flops or crocs to paddle across the mudflats and a small towel to dry your feet afterwards. There are  excellent 'chiringuitos' on the beach at La Reyerta and Motijo. Note the fascinating ancient corrales de pesca (fish traps) at Motijo. 
Nearby: -  a visit here can be combined with an early morning search for Rufous Bushchat and/or Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, White-headed & Marbled Ducks to the east or Little Swift in nearby Chipiona. Coastal scrub near Chipiona can be excellent for migrants

Access:  La Reyerta is signposted off the first roundabout on the A 480 (i.e. where it ceases to be an 'Autovia').  Punta de Mojito is most easily reached by following prominent signs along the Camino de la Reyerta to Venta Aurelio from which it is 450m along a narrow lane to the point and the sea. 
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Birders watching terns at Mojito/Reyerta - remember your flip-flops!
2 - Desembocadura del Río San Pedro - this site is best checked an hour or two before high tide as large numbers of terns and gulls are displaced from the extensive sandbanks to the west gradually move east with the tide to finally rest on the narrow beach at the tip of the Los Toruños peninsular (Punta de los Saboneses)  Although you may be lucky and find the birds (briefly) resting on the nearside of Rio San Pedro, as the river is 100m wide at this point a 'scope is vital.  This site has a similar range of species as Chipiona including regular reports of Lesser Crested and a number of records of Elegant Tern.  In my experience, it's less good for waders and Slender-billed Gull (but better for Mediterranean) than Chipiona.
Nearby - the scrubby vegetation and parks here can be excellent for passerine migrants (e.g. flycatchers, warblers, etc). (Note: it is possible to walk down the Los Toruños peninsular to Punta de los Saboneses but it's a 8-10km roundtrip).  

Access: the Barrida de Rio San Pedro is signposted off the CA 35 as you approach the impressive new(ish) suspension bridge to Cadiz. the riverfront here has plenty of parking (and some good ventas)  along Calle Brasil.
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Scanning the distant sand bars for terns at Desembocadura (mouth) of the Rio San Pedro Sept 2022
3 - Tarifa: Playa de las Lances, Playa de la Caleta & Isla de las Palomas - the Tarifa area has long been widely recognised as the​ place to look for Lesser Crested Terns. Like the two previous sites, good numbers of gulls and terns rest on the wide sandy beach at Playa de las Lances (3a) to the north of the town. Waders are less numerous, less varied and more distant here than at Mojito but I've found it a better location for seeing Audouin's Gull. (but less favourable for Slender-billed Gull). Despite it being designated as a nature reserve, birds are often disturbed by dog walkers, kite surfers and horse riders.  Accordingly, they can be rather distant so a 'scope is vital here.  A hide here was constructed to overlook a tidal pool but the pool is a shifting feature. Migrating raptors & storks often pass low overhead here. I've never tried looking at Playa de la Caleta (immediately east of the harbour) or from the harbour wall (Punta de Santo) (3b) but others have done so with success albeit of flying birds only. I've not visited Isla de las Palomas either as it is accessed only by permit.  
Nearby - the rough pasture nearby can attract migrants like Tawny Pipit, the coastal pines further up the coast is good for passerine migrants (e.g. flycatchers, redstarts, etc) and raptor migration points are only a few km away.  
Access - there are two options for Playa las Lances: first park near the football ground on the edge of Tarifa take the boardwalk or park near to the Cepsa petrol station just north of Tarifa and (carefully) cross the N 340 and walk to the hide (700m). You can easily walk to Playa de la Caleta ​​from the town centre. 
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The hide at the northern end of the Playa de los Lances
4 - Palmones -  unlike the previous sites, Palmones has less extensive sandbanks and so doesn't attract so many roosting gulls and terns. However, it has a good record for turning up Lesser Crested Terns so can't be omitted (although this may be more to do with the site being regularly watched and the presence of several long-staying individuals here). The number of waders is relatively limited but you have a good chance of Osprey here. Iconic views across to Gibraltar. It's also a good place for waiting for friends arriving via Gibraltar airport (25 mins)   
Nearby - further views of the estuary can be obtained on the other side of the river at the Observatorio de El Torrejón and on the beach at Rinconcillo. To be honest, as this means driving through the suburbs of Algeciras I've rarely bothered!      
Access:  - Palmones is easily reached by following signs off the A 7 (look out for the large Carrefour supermarket) 
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Scanning (successfully) for Lesser Crested Tern at Palmones
The most convenient 'hotspot' to look for rare terns for many people will be the two playas at Tarifa.  These sites nearest to the famous raptor watchpoints of Cazalla and Punta Camorro. Indeed, for those who walk up to the latter site from the town, Playa de la Caleta ​​is en route.  Also, as this area is well frequented by birders, news of their presence here is often disseminated more widely and promptly than elsewhere. However, despite being over 1 hr 30 mins from Tarifa (where most birders stay), I recommend visiting Mojito/Reyerta to look for rare terns. You'll not only get better views of any terns, gulls and waders present but you'll also be in a good position to make a detour to pick up species you'll struggle to find elsewhere (including Little Swift, Rufous Bushchat, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, etc.)  Just remember to check the tides! 

​Despite underperforming in this company, the Marismas de Barbate  (esp. the nearby river mouth) and Conil (despite often being disturbed by holidaymakers) should also be worth a try. 
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Autumn Update 2 (2024) - El Cabrito to El Cuartón

3/10/2024

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I must confess that I've rarely visited El Cabrito and when I have it's sometimes been largely to reverse direction on the N-340.  It certainly seems to be the 'Cinderella' of watchpoints compared to the popular sites closer to Tarifa or Algeciras.  My reluctance has largely been due to the fact that the watchpoint is now surrounded by a large windfarm.  
However, in spring 2024 I turned off the road here and drove a kilometre or so up the track and, after looking on Google wondered how far it was possible to drive along this surprisingly good track.  I was then short of time so went no further but exploring this neglected site was a priority this autumn. 

I checked it out twice, first driving only c2 km but later continuing up to the Puerto de la Ahumada and then down to El Cuarton.  The track soon enters a low wind-blasted woodland that must surely have Bonelli's Warbler and Iberian Chiffchaff in spring.  On neither day was it particularly good for raptor migration with overcast rain-threatening skies on the first visit and very strong winds on the second but I saw Marsh Harrier, Short-toed & Booted Eagles, Egyptian and Griffon Vultures.  The latter should be examined closely as Ruppell's Vulture has been seen here. 

Bearing right at the fork after c2km, the track continues in excellent condition until after another c1km you reach a charming Vivienda Rural (La Villa Verde). After this point the track degenerates into a badly rutted obstacle course that requires very careful driving. The extra effort is worth it, though, as you soon arrive at the Puerto de la Ahumada 
(464m). If you don't want to risk the drive along this poor section of track, there's plenty of parking space by the Vivienda Rural and it's only c700 metres to walk up to the puerto (pass). This is another site I've intended to check out for several years.  The pass is overlooked by higher peaks (529m & 629m)  and the dominant habitat is open rocky heathland which, I'm told, holds Dartford Warbler. There's a spider's web of tracks here and, in theory at least, it's possible to drive all the way through to the CA 9210 (the Sanctuario road). The area would certainly be worth exploring on foot (or bicycle) and it would be interesting to watch raptor migration from here.  

Not wishing to risk the poor track again and encouraged by other cars being parked up at the pass, I took the paved military road down to El Cuarton.  I did so with some trepidation as I knew the entrance to this road is gated (although I'm not sure if it's actually locked). Happily, I found the barrier open and drove on down to the N 340.  One source suggests that this route is open to vehicular traffic but other 
sources suggest access is restricted. You can walk the 1.6 km (and 120m increase in elevation) up to the pass from El Cuarton but I've always been daunted by the scorching heat when I've looked previously.  If considering trying this route it would be wise to check if the gate is open first or do so in the reverse direction. 

​Whilst this is probably doesn't rate as a major 'hotspot', it makes a pleasant change from the well-visited coastal observatories and offers the chance of exploring under-watched areas.  


 
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Autumn Update 1 (2024) - Marismas de Trebujena Reserve

1/10/2024

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The map of the reserve on the noticeboard omits the distant lagunas (d) to the south west (which I've added after checking the rough outline of the excavations on GoogleEarth).
I have been following the development of this new reserve closely for several years so I was very pleased to find that it's now open to the public.  Perhaps I was over-optimistic, but I had hoped that by autumn the lagunas would have matured a little with evidence of plant life around its margins and even that there would be evidence that the xerophytic vegetation in the dry areas would be invading the disturbed ground.  Disappointingly, both the lagunas overlooked by the two miradors (Lucio de Gabela Honda & Lucio de Espinete) were almost entirely lifeless with no more than a couple of Black-winged Stilts, a handful of Spoonbills, a few Little Egrets and a few more  Grey Herons).   The margins of the lagunas appeared to be entirely lifeless with no vegetation of insect activity.  Hopefully, things will improve by next spring ...  
I parked at the main car park (b) and walked the route to the track along the river (a) but returned the way I'd arrived as the light in this direction was much better for photography in the morning. (NB if arriving from Trebujena, as recommended, then (b) is the first place you can stop and access the site)  Otherwise, a walk along the track back to your car would make this a pleasant circular walk The tower (Lucio de Gabela Honda) afforded good views across the distant Marismas de Terebujena and the northern part of the wetland but to the south-west much of the laguna remained hidden from view.  Perhaps a hide could be slotted in where a track (c) runs alongside this area.  The whole route to Lucio de Gabela Honda is rather exposed to the sun and any observer to the birds but at least the mirador offers some shade. Armed with a 'scope it might be worth scanning for the elusive Pin-tailed Sandgrouse from here.  Where there was some vegetation several small groups of larks (totalling c50 birds) flew up but, other than two Calandra Larks, were in view so briefly and dived into cover so promptly that it was impossible to identify them to species level.  
The walk to ​Mirador Lucio de Espinete is a little shorter but you're obliged to return by the way you came.  As noted above this laguna was also pretty lifeless although it held the bulk of the Spoonbills and, whilst I was scanning from the mirador, I had two Ospreys and a Caspian Tern passing along the river. Frustratingly, in the distance I could see that the pools to the south held good numbers of birds (c200 Flamingos, a few Glossy Ibis, unidentifiable small waders and a few ducks. If access along the track here (c) is possible then these pools would be an excellent location for a couple of hides (if suitable screening could be arranged).  
In summary, to reach this reserve's potential as a birding hotspot it needs to improve access, provide more hides (and screening) and above all time must be allowed for it to mature. The latter also applies if its primary role is to provide habitat for the target species here (Marbled Duck amongst others).  
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    About me ...

    Hi I'm John Cantelo. I've been birding seriously  since the 1960s when I met up with some like minded folks (all of us are still birding!) at Taunton's School in Southampton.  I have lived in Kent , where I taught History and Sociology, since the late 1970s. I've served on the committees of both my local RSPB group and the county ornithological society (KOS).  I also worked as a part-time field teacher for the RSPB at Dungeness.  Having retired I now spend as much time as possible in Alcala de los Gazules in SW Spain.   When I'm not birding I edit books for the Crossbill Guides series.

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