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Seeing Great Bustard in Andalucia

18/9/2011

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The farmland north-east of Osuna (Seville) is an area I've looked in half a dozen times before for Great Bustard, but with no success. My failure here is partly because I tried to do it en route to Alcala (when arriving at Seville airport), but also as mostly I've looked with people for whom Great Bustard was a lifer! A prime example of Sod's Law! All too often I've been searching in the late afternoon, not the optimum time to look, but, determined by the timing of flights into Seville, I had little choice. This time I was keen to look earlier in the morning – in spring Little Bustards here had been particularly active. Fortunately, this year I was meeting my daughter in Cordoba so an early morning departure from Alcala was planned and a detour (not too much of one either) to Osuna was plotted.

Since I'd heard most reports from a minor road running along the railway west from Osuna, this was where I headed. Taking exit 80 just west of Osuna (see map), I turned north as I came to the end of the slip road onto the minor road which runs along the side of a s mall venta (near a Repsol petrol station). This is a poorly marked junction so if uncertain just make sure you head round the eastern side of a newly laid out small industrial estate. At first you drive through olive groves. The road follows the Seville-Granada railway line, but after a few kilometres the new fast AVE line comes sweeping in from the south. This new fast line then runs paralell to the older track towards Seville, but unlike for the original, dusty level crossings are considered unsafe. Conveniently, a series of ramps and bridges, each offering panoramic views across the area, have now been built to cross this line. (Hopefully, as the bustards have grown accustomed to the old line this new fast service, open in 2012 shouldn't disturb them too much). Although bustards can be seen along both the A 407 and A351 (north of Osuna) looking here is by far the better option. The quietness of this road allows you to pull over where you please and these new viewpoints greatly improve your chances of spotting distant birds.

Picture
Where to look for Great Bustard near Osuna (see below)
Picture
Great Bustards - a poor digiscoped photo of wonderful birds!
 I drove up to the first bridge (a) without too much hope as in the spring, I'd spent hours scanning here with bins and 'scope to no avail and, to be honest, the habitat doesn't look as good as elsewhere in this area. This time, however, I quickly picked a group of 'likely' birds with the naked eye as I drove up the ramp to the bridge. Bins rapidly unshipped, it took no more than a millisecond to realise that here was my quarry – a group of six fine Great Bustards! They were distant, but the light was perfect and good views were to be had in my 'scope. When Liz, my non-birding wife, took a peek at them she exclaimed “Wow!” To put that into context that's the first time any bird has elicited that sort of response in the 30+ years we've been married! It was Liz who as we turned to go suddenly noticed that there were now eight birds standing in the group. As no birds had flown in, this was a salutory lesson that these huge birds, when sitting down, could merge into the meagre cover. As usual here, the supporting cast was superb including Montagu's Harrier and passing Gull-billed Tern. I'd heard Little Bustard here in the spring, but several scans failed to produce a sighting. Collared Pratincole can be everywhere along this road in early summer.


Picture
 Pressing on we drove a couple of km further on to the second bridge (b). Taking the track on the left that climbs and swings over both the road and railway tracks I searched the first field to the left. Here In spring I'd had several displaying and raspberry blowing Little Bustard and a few Stone Curlew, but today, there were only a couple of Monties. The far side of the bridge offers good views across ideal bustard habitat - but today nothing much was happening. (A poor track runs across the farmland here and seems to eventually connect with that running from the third bridge). I've had great views of Roller here and this species seems to be a speciality of the area.

A similar distance further on you come to a crossroads – to the left are some ruined fincas (c) and to the right a track (d) that heads off towards the A 407. The fincas have Lesser Kestrel and I've seen Montagu's here. The track splits in two after the buildings and both routes look good for bustards (though so far I've drawn a blank here). The track on the other side of the road crosses good bustard habitat. I have seen Little Bustard here plus Roller, Black-winged Kite and Stone Curlew. Naturally the whole area hosts a good range of raptors (Short-toed and Booted Eagle, etc.) and, during migration periods, stray Honey Buzzards may pass over. Check buzzards for Long-legged Buzzard which have occurred not so far away.

Back on the 'main' road, a small (but metalled) road turns off to the right neasr a sign for the 'Venta la Romera' (no longer, it seems, in business). This road again heads through excellent bustard habitat and makes a great short cut if you're heading over towards La Lantjuela. At times a temporary pools is established on the right before you reach the railway bridge – check it for Collared Pratincole, Gull-billed Tern and Black-winged Stilt. As well a Roller, this is a good route for Southern Grey Shrike, Bee-eater and, near some ruins, Spanish Sparrow. The fields beyond the A 407 are worth checking for the same birds.

Back on the original road you soon pass though rolling cereal fields before you drop down into a hollow (f) - 'Laguna' de los Ojuelos. This area of temporary pools is the only place I've seen Black-bellied Sandgrouse in Andalucia, but I suspect I've used up both my luck and yours as I saw it from the train! (Amazingly, it flew up and flew along next to my window – not bad as it was a lifer at the time). There are fewer than 50 pairs in eastern Andalucia so I was incredibly lucky. This area, though, is good for Collared Pratincoles, wheatears, Red-rumped Swallow, Bee-eater and Roller so always worth a look. After a wet spring, large areas are flooded here attracting White Stork, Flamingo, stilts and many waders. Unfortunately, the best areas are beyond the railway line in a strictly private finca – even the most resolute twitcher might be put off trespassing here as it's a farm raising fighting bulls! A more permanent lake can be glimposed through the olive groves from the SE 720, but again this is strictly private. A track running west from the junction with the SE 720 may be worth exploring - the only time I tried to do so it was badly rutted and very wet..




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    About me ...

    Hi I'm John Cantelo. I've been birding seriously  since the 1960s when I met up with some like minded folks at Secondary School.  I have lived in Kent , where I taught History and Sociology, since the late 1970s. In that time I've served on the committees of both my local RSPB group and the county ornithological society (KOS).  I have also worked as a part-time field teacher for the RSPB at Dungeness.  Having retired now spend as much time as in Alcala de los Gazules in SW Spain.   When I'm not birding I edit books for the Crossbill Guides series.

    PictureBirding Spanish style - September 2010

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