In short, if well managed this reserve threatens to shift the understandable (but limiting) ornithological ' centre of gravity' away from Tarifa towards the north of the province. Hopefully, the progressive local council in Trebujena will grasp this opportunity whilst visiting birders will repay them by spending money locally!
Restoration of the Marismas de Trebujena I wrote about the exciting development of a major reserve due to open this year (2024) on restored marismas in a previous post (More cheers for Trebujena! (weebly.com)) so I was keen to see what progress had been made with this ambitious project. Looking at GoogleEarth images (see above), I already knew that major earthworks had already been undertaken but there's no thing like seeing things for yourself to get a feel for what's going on. Although I had seen the plans and the GoogleEarth view, I was not prepared for the sheer scale and ambition that was apparent 'on the ground'. The reserve will be vast. My photos are entirely inadequate to the task but I hope that they give some sort of useful impression. The exposed earth is still in a raw state without vegetation as too are the pools but the potential is extraordinary even though I couldn't see the southernmost pools (Lucios ES 3 & ES 4 and Lucios GH 5, 6 & 7 on map below). Several bridges connecting the islands have already been built and, hopefully, the two viewing towers I could see will be supplemented by hides elsewhere. It will take time for things to 'bed down' but it should be a stunning place to visit in spring 2025 - I can't wait! Properly managed - and there's the rub - for both birds and birdwatchers, it will become a mecca for visiting ornithological tourists. Similar reserves on Majorca (and elsewhere in Spain) are managed well for both wildlife and visitors but in my experience Andalucia doesn't have a great track record in this respect, The excellent visitors' centre with an interesting botanical garden near Alcala de los Gazules, for example, has been closed for years (although the buildings have been repainted indicating this may change). Closer to home, the small reserve nearby (where the road turns along the river) seems to be permanently closed but thankfully can be viewed from the road. (I suspect it's role is educational but the new reserve is surely too large for that to be the sole aim). Decent management and access will mean on-going funding to employ a workforce after EU grants have expired Without this investment, due to the huge scale of this new venture, there will be only limited options to do so along the road beside the Guadalquivir.
In short, if well managed this reserve threatens to shift the understandable (but limiting) ornithological ' centre of gravity' away from Tarifa towards the north of the province. Hopefully, the progressive local council in Trebujena will grasp this opportunity whilst visiting birders will repay them by spending money locally!
0 Comments
For the past 20 years a sword of Damocles in the form of a plan to build an urbanization of 300 luxury villas, hotels and a golf course has hung over the former marshland habitats beside the Guadalquivir near Trebujena. Lagunas here were drained in the mid-1950s but the land proved unsuitable for agriculture (other than rough grazing) due to its high salinity. In 2003 wealthy Belgian developer, Bernard Devos, hatched a plan to build a tourist complex comprising of 300 villas, a hotel and a golf course on the site (see below). This idea remained officially sanctioned as late as 2019 as the Junta de Andalucía continued to approve of the scheme and the local municipality even modified its plans to accommodate it. At the same time, there were alternative ideas for this site involving the restoration of the marshes (supported amongst others by the excellent ‘Ecologistas en Acción’ organisation and latterly the local government. I’d long been aware of these plans but was prompted to do a little more digging by an article in La Voz del Sur sent to me by my fellow Cadiz birding aficionado Richard Page-Jones (see https://www.lavozdelsur.es/actualidad/ecologia/miradores-observatorios-senderos-resucitara-trebujena-marisma-lleva-seca-siglo_285078_102.html). Happily, the plans for the urbanisation have now been terminally scuppered by opposition from the Confederación Hidrográfica del Guadalquivir (CHG) and staunch opposition from the current mayor of Trebujena, Ramón Galán. The CHG found that the lack of water resources for the macro-urbanization and the golf course made the plan untenable (which environmentalists have been saying for two decades!). This finding was celebrated by ‘Ecologistas en Acción’ in March 2023 (see the photo below from their website). Click here to edit. The ambitious plans to convert the area to its former status as c700,000 sq. m. wetland with freshwater pools are now well in hand at a cost of almost €2 million (see the map above). The project should be finished in 2024 and will provide viewpoints, bird hides and several large shallow pools (regulated by sluice gates to control salinity). These new pools should be viewable from the CA 9027 as it runs along the northern perimeter of the reserve and from the south via a new pedestrian route giving access (see below). The mayor of Trebujena, Ramón Galán, commented to the media that "This project is very important for Trebujena and we have been waiting for it for a long time," adding that it is "a clear example of collaboration between Administrations to promote a project in a sustainable way in a natural environment. Its regeneration will favour the establishment of birdlife and ornithological tourism." Wise words! Mercedes Colombo, a delegate of the Andalusian Government in Cádiz added that "This diversity of environments (fresh and brackish), and the existence of different levels of flooding, will allow the lagoons to become one of the main nesting areas for the Marbled Duck, a species classified as endangered at the national level. and that has suffered a dramatic decline in its populations in recent years." Details I’ve been able to find online are rather sparse but, frustratingly, photos in the media reports showed that there were plans of the new reserve although they only published distant shots of them. However, this was enough to set me digging for more ... After combing through the internet without success, I turned to searching tweets by the local government (Ayuntamiento de Trebujena - @AytoTrebujena). I eventually found a map (see above) of the development in a tweet (28/09/2023). Unfortunately, the map has an incomplete key which doesn’t explain various red and yellow dots (sluice gates?) and a series of cryptic initials and what is visible hasn’t entirely succumbed to “Google Translate”. However, it does give a good idea of the scope of the plans particularly when viewed in the larger context of the route along CA 9027 beside the Guadalquivir roughly half of which will now enjoy views over an interesting wetland rather than very poor dry habitats (albeit good for sandgrouse!). The size of the scheme can also be better appreciated when compared to the already extant scheme further to the east (see ‘A’ and ‘B’ on my map below). In 2023 I saw diggers and workmen here and, I confess, assumed the worst – a new drainage scheme perhaps. Fortunately, my pessimism has now turned to optimism and the work on the new reserve should be finished in 2024. The two images below (culled from Google) show the area pre-development (from “GH1” and “GH3” - note the access track here). With the possible exception of Tarifa, I know of no other local government authority in Cadiz province (or any in neighbouring provinces) that is so committed to preserving the natural world within their area or with a greater understanding of its importance than the current administration in Trebujena. Similarly, no other authority seems to have a greater grasp of how ‘ornithological tourism’ can be promoted to mutual benefit. Warmest thanks must be extended to mayor, Ramón Galán, and the community of Trebujena for this excellent initiative. As I have noted in a previous blog (see - https://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/cadiz-birding-blog-page/spring-2019-update-5-three-cheers-for-trebujena), the community here has commendable pride in hosting the largest colony of Rufous Bushchat (Alzacola rojizo) Spain. The area is already dotted with handsome ceramic signs celebrating the area’s natural and historical heritage. This new reserve shows a further commitment to this ethos and is a most welcome practical step towards the Ayuntamiento de Trebujena’s long term aims. All of this has been achieved with admirable public debate and the support of the local citizens Given this commitment, I’m hopeful that this new reserve will be more easily accessed than the current one. I will give updates regarding access as soon as they are available. In my own small way (via this blog, my guide to birding in Cadiz and my co-authorship of the Crossbill Guide to the Western Andalucia) I’ve been trying to convince people for years that there’s more to birding in the area than just watching raptor passage across the straits. There may be no denying that the raptor passage across the straits is the jewel in the crown but the Guadalquivir littoral is a diadem that shouldn’t be missed. Trebujena makes a great base for exploring this area as within minutes you can explore local hotspots with sought after birds like Rufous Bushchat, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Marbled and White-headed Ducks, to the west Chipiona with its colony of Little Swifts (and the potential for joining the regular pelagic birding trips from there) is only thirty minutes away and to the north-east you can be birding the fabulous Brazo del Este in 45 minutes. Best of all, by using Trebujena as a base you support an excellent local initiative. So if you’re a regular to the area or even a new visitor instead of doing the obvious thing and staying along the straits consider splitting your stay between Tarifa and Trebujena – you won’t be disappointed!
Area Recreativa El Picacho The wooden viewing platform at "Area Recreative El Picacho" (E2.2 a in my guide) is now finished. Whilst it improves the view over towards the vulture feeding station (c1 km distant slightly to the left of the structure), it does not permit views of the station itself. Even so it's a good spot to stop and scan for vultures, other raptors and Ravens (50+ possible) Centro de Interpretación Montes Propios Note that the gate off the CA 503 to this site (E 2.2 f) was closed on my visit in February - possibly also due to increased fire risk noted above. Check locally before driving up to the centre. Charco de los Hurones Note that the road from the CA 503 up to the Charco de los Hurones (E 2.2 h) is currently (March 2024) closed. It's blocked off and a sign reads "Carretera de acceso al poblado cortada por riesgo de incendios y obras" (Access road to the town closed due to risk of fires and works). I'm told that the "works" are to repair the route after a serious landslip. Presumably, as access to the dam is of sufficient importance for it to be repaired in the relative near future although when the fire risk will be at an acceptable level is difficult to say. However, an extended closure may put the venta here at risk of closure. Fortunately, it's not a major site for birds although it is an attractive one. Laguna de Torrox I spent a couple of hours walking around this laguna (NW 12 g/h) one morning and managed to find my 'target bird' - a Red-knobbed Coot. I also had an early Sedge Warbler, an abundance of Chiffchaffs, Serins, Red-crested Pochards, Great-crested Grebes, Crag and House Martins and plenty of Swallows, etc. The western arm of this 'figure-of-eight' laguna had the largest area of reeds so is presumably the best place to look for Purple Swamphen and Little Bittern (I only saw the first here but both occur). Fortunately, the reeds here are less well screened by tamarisk than much of the laguna. The eastern end was a little more open and less enclosed by buildings. Both have small islands on which herons, gulls, ducks and Cormorants rested. Although not a major birding destination this site is an excellent option if staying in Jerez without a car (buses run from the centre to here) or when doing a shopping run. Incidentally, the "Red-knobbed Coot" I saw last year at the Costa Ballena (see below) has now been confirmed as a Common Coot x Red-knobbed Coot hybrid. The clues were there but like most other observers I missed them being seduced by the bluish bill and incipient red knobs! Laguna de los Tercios Given the state of Laguna de Medina (see below), I was surprised that the Laguna de los Tercios (NW 12 f) had any water at all. Mine was a very short investigation but it had a couple of Green Sandpipers, a small flock of Shovelers, Black-winged Stilt and a couple of Flamingo. I had an even quicker look at nearby Laguna Juncosa which proved to be entirely birdless although it did hold some water. Laguna de Medina Laguna de Medina (NW 9) should be full of water (and birds) in late winter but it presented a sorry spectacle this February. What little water remained was very shallow and crowded with gulls (mainly Yellow-legged and Lesser Black -backed Gulls) with a small flock of Shoveler. It was such a sad scene that I didn't linger so their may have been more birds of a greater variety but not the masses of Coots, grebes and ducks there should have been. The blue line in the upper photo indicates the usual waterline. Only a period of heavy sustained rain will rescue the laguna this spring. As it dries out less often than the other lagunas lagunas, its state bodes ill for other laguna complexes (i.e. Lagunas de Puerto Real, de Chiclana, de Espera and del Puerto Santa Maria). Laguna de Jeli (Lagunas de Chiclana) As expected, Laguna de Jeli (NW 13) proved to be bone dry with only a small bare muddy blemish to show where water had been with the rest of the 'laguna' being grazed by cows. Some better news to follow in the second part of this review ...
Of all Cadiz's famous lagunas, the Laguna de Medina is the least likely to dry out. So seeing it last month looking more like a dust bowl than a lake was not a good sign. As I've noted before occasional droughts are what make the lagunas here special as they kill off any carp that may have been deliberately introduced (or arrived from local fisheries in rare times of flood). Having seen so many dry laguna basins this spring (when they should be wet), the state of the Laguna de Medina didn't surprise me. Seeing it in such a state meant I didn't bother to look at any other natural lagunas. Although I've not kept a detailed record, it seems to me that these drought conditions are happening more often and the future of the smaller lakes must be in question. Embalse de Barbate, my local reservoir, was drier than I've ever seen it with the shoreline a kilometre or two from where it was a decade ago. Even a couple of years ago an Osprey's nest on a pylon was surrounded by water but now it's stranded in the middle of what seems a well-established. pasture. Whilst it is a remarkably shallow reservoir, not so long ago much of the area indicated in the photo above (taken from Lomo del Judio) held water rather than just a few distant puddles (circled in red). As my map shows the arms of the reservoir once extended north towards Alcala and eastwards towards the A 381 (and at one point actually extended under that road and the service road beyond). Although natural lagunas were dry, I knew that small abandoned sand pits in intensively irrigated areas, water-works and golf courses were the most likely sites to find any standing water. I didn't visit the latter but I did check out Lagunas de Camino Colarado, Laguna Tarelo and, briefly, Lagunas Martín Miguel (all near Bonanza). Water levels at the Lagunas de Camino Colorado were well below normal so the number and variety of ducks present was lower than usual. I could only find a single White-headed Duck whereas I usually expect to see tens of birds (c20-40) at this site which is a hot-spot for this species, particularly if you want good views. Mallard were the most numerous duck although there were fewer of them than usual too whilst Red-crested Pochard were entirely absent. However, I was very pleased to see five Marbled Ducks dabbling around and resting on the muddy margins. These are handsome little ducks and, when present, this is often the best place to obtain good views. The low water levels were not all bad news as the necklace of smelly glutinous mud around the remaining water seems to be particularly attractive during migration periods to Temminck’s Stint. I’ve seen 13 Temminck’s here in the past but I was well pleased to get good views of five birds (plus a Little Stint) on my visit. The birds were mainly on the two pools beside the Camino Colorado. There were also a handful of Black-winged Stilt and Lapwings here plus a Green Sandpiper and a trio of Purple Swamphens. Walking around to the back pool along the Camino Troncosa, I was disappointed to see that locals continue to use the site as a rubbish dump despite its recent designation as a protected site. This problem has been the subject of protests by Ecologistas en Acción Jerez so it’s disappointing that it continues to be an issue. I’d seen Red-knobbed Coot here in the spring and I knew it was still present but the number of flies was off-putting so I didn’t stay long. There were plenty of Little Egrets and a few Night Herons but I dipped on the coot. My next stop was Laguna Tarelo which is hidden in the pinewoods just beyond La Algaida. This is usually another good spot for White-headed Duck but, unusually, I failed to find a single one here. However, despite the lower than usual water levels the laguna had many more ducks than usual and I was surprised to find so many of them were Shovelers (c400-500). Amongst them were two more Marbled Ducks. Finally, I had a very quick look at Lagunas de Martín Miguel and discovered where all the Coots had gone! Also present were 150+ Glossy Ibis, Great-crested Grebe and a few more Night Herons. One of the most interesting developments in Cadiz birding in recent years is the development of regular autumnal pelagic trips into the Atlantic. It's something I'd advocated for many years so it's good to see my hopes become reality. I managed to go on one last year so I was keen to repeat the performance in 2023. This proved more difficult than anticipated as these jaunts fill very rapidly and all seemed to have been booked during my stay (despite my emailing bird tour companies earlier in the year). Fortunately, an additional trip was organised for 23rd September and I was able to book on to it. Since the pelagic was due to depart at 07.30, I opted to have a day birding around Sanlucar the previous day and stay over in Chipiona at Hostal Andalucia (hostal-andalucia.com/ - highly recommended & very good value at under 40€). I've noted some of the birds I saw in an earlier update but I also visited Montijo beach hoping to catch up with the semi-resident Elegant Tern. I had no luck with my target bird but did see Common, Little, Sandwich and Caspian Terns here plus Slender-billed and Mediterranean Gulls and the usual selection of waders (Kentish, Ringed & Grey Plovers, Oystercatcher, Greenshank, Bar-tailed Godwits, etc). I can also highly recommend the beach-bar (chiringuito) at Montijo not only because the food is good but also because the friendly owner speaks excellent English! Staying in Chipiona also afforded me the opportunity to explore this pleasant little resort. It boasts the tallest lighthouse in Spain (62m) and has several fascinating ancient fish corrals. The information board about these enclosures reads -The locality of Chipiona is known, amongst other attractions, for its traditional fishing and fish-rearing corrals; enclosed areas made of porous stones from the sea or sedimentary rocks formed from sea shells, connected by goose barnacles, oyster shells and limpets, which act as a natural mortar. The traditional shell-fishermen make use of them at low tide to catch fish and shellfish. Situated at the mouth of the River Guadalquivir, one of the most important estua- ries in the Peninsula because of its great ecological diversity, the corrals of Chipiona have been in use since time immemorial. It is believed they are of Roman origin, but they may have been constructed by previous civilizations. The corrals fill and empty according to the tides. They are connected to the sea by a series of closed pipes with gratings, which allow the water to flow in and out, but stop the fish from getting out at low tide. At present the Hondo, Chico, Canalete del Diablo and Mariño corrals are still pre- served on the Camaron-Tres Piedras beach, as are the Nuevo, Cabito and Trapillo on the las Canteras beach, the Longuera on del Muelle beach, and the Montijo corral on Montijo beach. Their vast size gives them an appearance of great solidity, but in fact they are fragile structures due to the traditional nature of their construction, and they are easily damaged by the force of the sea or human activity. The fishing technique developed in these corrals is respectful of the natural environment and follows a series of norms of conservation. Each corral has a 'catador' who is responsible for its management and maintenance. This 'catador', like the traditional fishermen, makes use of certain implements; a fija' (an iron implement with a trident on one side to spear the fish and a hook on the other side to get them out of the cavities), a francajo' (similar to the fija but with a wooden handle) or a 'cuchillo de marea' -tide knife, (with the appearance of a sabre, although lacking a sharp edge) The corrals constitute an ideal habitat for a wide variety of species of fish and in- vertebrates, notable amongst which are the large fish (Stone Bass, Sea Bass, Pomfrets, etc) and other species such as the Cuttle Fish, Sea Urchins, Crabs and Shrimps, it is a spawning ground for them, a refuge during the juvenile period, and feeding ground. The towns third claim to fame is that it was a victim of a tsunami caused by 1755 Lisbon earthquake. The Lisbon earthquake is largely forgotten today but at the time it had a profound impact not only physically but also politically and philosophically spawning, amongst other things, Voltaire's morality tale, Candide. However, the people of Chipiona have longer memories than most since not only is there a memorial to the event on the promenade but also the place is dotted with signs indicating the best escape route should another tsunami occur. Cautious folk these Chipionites! And so to the pelagic ... We left Chipiona at dawn full of hope and high expectations but our optimism proved to be misplaced as ours was one of the few trips this autumn that failed to score a storm-petrel of any kind or any of the less common shearwaters or skuas. The official tally as published on e-Bird was as follows:- 2 Little Swift 8 Ruddy Turnstone 4 Great Skua 5 Arctic Skua 4 Audouin's Gull 28 Yellow-legged Gull 200 Lesser Black-backed Gull 1 Common Tern 10 Sandwich Tern 4 Cory's Shearwater 7 Balearic Shearwater 18 Gannet 1 Little Egret 14 Glossy Ibis 1 Hoopoe 2 House Sparrow I'm not sure who did the tallying but it seems a pretty accurate record although I had at least 6 Little Swift (all distant) and would put the number of Audouin's Gulls (and possibly skuas) somewhat lower. It's notoriously difficult to estimate the number of birds in these circumstances and my caution stems from noticing a distinctively marked immature gull that drifted in and out of the boat's wake at intervals (20-30 mins) throughout the trip. The big disappointment was that for the second year in a row the chum failed to draw any birds in (although it worked on a small shark!). On the other hand, close views of "Cory's" Shearwater allowed me to note the distinctive features of Scopoli's Shearwater for the first time and honestly tick the species/subspecies. This ID was backed by Michael Bergman's excellent photos (who has kindly allowed me to reproduce them here). I'll be back next year when I hope that the chum does its job and gives me the close-up encounter with storm-petrels that I desire. With the Marismas de Cetina and Barbate marshes within 50 minutes of Alcala de los Gazules, it's understandable that I have rather neglected visiting mouth of the Rio Salado (a) at Conil (which takes about the same time to reach). However, it's a different matter when I'm visiting friends Richard & Michelle Page-Jones who have a house c15 minutes away from the site. Although number and variety of shorebirds here is low compared to the other sites mentioned, upstream from the bridge there were Little Egret, Dunlin, Common Sandpiper, Sanderling, Redshank and Greenshank. Where the Rio Salado soaks into the sands on the other side of the bridge there were many more Sanderlings plus dozens of Ringed and a sprinkling of Kentish Plovers. Whilst I was there a dog walker came along and his off lead dog zig-zagged across this area disturbing all the birds (see photo). Unfortunately, disturbance seems to be a regular feature here (although most people without a canine companion avoided the pools formed at the river mouth). As can be seen from the photo looking towards Torre Castilnovo (which hosts a small colony of Bald Ibis), there's also a pool set back from and running parallel with the coast. I've had a variety of gulls and terns here in the past but on this visit two off-lead dogs got there first. From the promenade by the car park you can get good views over the undisturbed saltmarshes which can hold dozens of Stone-curlews during migration periods although it took a lot of scope-work on my visit to winkle out a couple of distant birds. In short this site isn't so much a birding destination as a pleasant detour if you're passing or staying nearby. However, the main interest on this jaunt was to visit an area where Richard & Michelle had previously seen Little Bustard. I've long known that this area still holds a few Little Bustards but as there's a good site for them far closer to Alcala, I've never made any serious effort to find them. Another complication is that most of the roads crossing this area are busy with traffic with few, if any, places to stop and scan. However, Richard told me of a good 4 km gravel track (b) that transects the area affording leisurely stops and scans. Unlike the busy main and minor roads in the area, this track allows you to stop and scan for birds particularly larks, Collared Pratincole, Montagu’s Harrier and, of course, Little Bustard. Better still it crosses a shallow bowl making it easier to pick up birds on the surrounding gentle slopes. The start of this track off the CA 2144 is easy to find as it's opposite the Venta Piñero (GPS 36.2439, -6.0625). Alternatively it is similarly easy to join from the N 340 as the bridge that takes the track over the E5 (c350m south of the Galp petrol station) equally obvious (GPS 36.2506, -6.0222). If you're unlucky here then it's probably worth trying the track (c) further north that passes the Sancha Pérez Bodega en route to Junction 30 on the E5 (see map) which certainly has the first two species. A more problematic alternative is the track (d) off Junction 26. This area 2-3 km from the junction had Little Bustards a decade or more ago (and remains good for Black-winged Kite, Montagu's Harrier, larks, etc) but the track is now overgrown and very badly degraded in parts. I drove along it last year but would avoid doing so again. The section near Conil was in such a dreadful condition that I would have turned back, had there been anywhere to turn around!
Although this report focuses on the Coto Doñana on the other side of the Rio Guadalquivir, the message applies equally well to Cadiz Province. In Irby's seminal 1875 book on the area, "The Ornithology of the Straits of Gibraltar", the 'phylosc' warblers with an odd song that inhabited the Alcornocales were regarded as a race of Willow Warbler with an unusual local dialect. This was a forgivable error in an era without recordings of bird vocalisations and in the context of the species' flourish at the end of its song. It wasn't until Hubert Lynes published a paper on them in 1914 that it was realised that the birds were a form of (Common) Chiffchaff (for more details see here). Lynes observed of the song that “... if it was a poor Willow-Warbler's song, it was an impossible Chiffchaff's”. Unfortunately, nobody took much notice of this form, native to Europe, which was scarcely covered, if at all, in European field guides. Ironically, Siberian Chiffchaff, a non-breeding vagrant to Europe enjoyed much fuller treatment. The excellent "MacMillan Guide to Bird Identification" (1989) hardly mentions it saying only that "Chiffchaffs of the Iberian race give an intermediate song" (i.e. between Chiffchaff & Willow Warbler) which was neither helpful nor entirely accurate. The first edition of the "Collins Guide" was hardly much of an improvement adding only details of the call and an unconvincing description of the song. It wasn't until it began being treated as a distinct species in the early 2000s that Iberian Chiffchaff garnered any attention. . As far as I'm aware, the first attempt to illustrate how the plumage of Iberian birds differed from the nominate race was by Peter Hayman in "The Complete Guide to the Birdlife of Britain & Europe" (2000 & reproduced in the pocket version in 2002). These underrated books depicted two images of this species - one bright & one dull. To my eye the brighter bird looks too much like a Wood Warbler (too green & too yellow) but the duller example is very close to the birds I see in southern Spain. Surprisingly, however, the diagnostic vocalisations were not described. Happily, the second and subsequent editions of the Collins Guide illustrate Iberian Chiffchaff and describe the vocalisations very well. It is also well treated in the WildGuides' "Europe's Birds". For a resume of the main difference see below. Although the song is usually diagnostic, 'mixed singers' (birds that mix the songs of both taxa) sometimes occur although a 'proper' Iberian Chiffchaff is far more likely in this area. For recordings of the song and call on Xeno-canto - see here. Despite scattered breeding records across Spain, it is largely confined as a breeding species to three main areas: north-west Spain (including northern Portugal and some leakage into France), the southern Atlantic coast of Portugal and the mountains of western Andalucia (mainly the Alcornocales and Grazalema). Broadly, this mirrors areas with higher rainfall. Lynes notes that "... singing males of this species shared the cork-oak glades in about equal proportion as Bonelli's". Personally, however, I think that, whilst both are to be found in Cork Oak woodlands, Bonelli's Warbler is the more common of the two in such habitat. In my experience, Iberian Chiffchaff is more frequent in woodlands dominated by Algerian Oak (which resembles the familiar oak trees of the UK) which also has Bonelli's Warbler. Iberian Chiffchaffs seem to particularly like canutos* where there's a mix of Algerian Oak, Alder, elm and ash trees. This latter habitat perhaps reflects the species' wider distribution in wetter parts of Iberia. * Canutos are incised valleys within valley which enjoy a moist sub-climate. Iberian Chiffchaffs are a species that most birders want to find in the area even if their primary focus is witnessing raptor passage or seeing wetland birds. They can be found quite widely in the Alcornocales where I've found them in Sierra de Montecoche, Valdeinfierno, Arroyo de la Miel, El Pelayo, El Bujeo, etc. However, several of these sites involve a short/medium walk so for birders in a hurry I suggest two sites where they can be found a few paces from the car and both no more than a few minutes off the A 381. These sites also have other attractions which make the stop worthwhile. Site I - El Torero This site is best accessed from Exit 54 whether arriving from the north or south. It's worth pausing after leaving the A381 as the area around the junction also has a good track record for turning up White-rumped Swift. When the reservoir levels are high this is also a good spot for Osprey (although the continuing drought means the shoreline of the reservoir is a kilometre of more away). Heading south along the service road after 3.5 km you reach the turning for El Torero on the right. This section of the old Jerez-Algeciras is shrouded by trees almost forming a tunnel. Iberian Chiffchaff can be seen and heard anywhere along the road but particularly c100-200m from the service road. Passing the track to El Torero on the left after c1 km you reach a bridge over a small stream (the track continues but is fenced off here). Bee-eaters sometimes breed in the river bank and you have an unobstructed view of the sky to look for raptors. This makes an ideal great place for a lunch break. Site II - Ojen Valley The Ojen valley was once a key site for visiting birders but is now infrequently visited since the track through it was closed to motor vehicles. However, it's still worth a quick stop to look for Iberian Chiffchaff at the start of the route. From Exit 77 on the A 381 it's only c550m to the turning on to the Ojen Valley track. Park at the start of the track and follow the Corredor Verde dos Bahias downhill to the left. After c80m stepping stones take you over the Rio Palmones (here reduced to a small stream). Stop here and listen for Iberian Chiffchaff's distinctive song. This is also a site for Monarch butterfly. For a better view across the area you can take the Corredor Verde dos Bahias uphill. Should you feel so inclined, you can also venture into the Ojen valley on foot. After c3.5 km a footpath on the left takes you on a 3 km circular route through woodland to an ancient necropolis (Santuario de Bacinete), making a 10 km round trip. I can't resist finishing by noting the charming Spanish word for all small leaf warblers is Mosquitero. Google Translate tells me that the word means mosquito-net but in this context mosquito-catcher is more apt. Hence, the subject of this blog has the delightful Spanish name Mosquitero Ibérico.
Área Recreativa Los Tornos is at the western end of the Ojen Valley near Facinas. Unless your visit coincides with a major festival day or a weekend (when it can be packed), it's a tranquil sort of place. It's shady yet lightly enough wooded to allow you to watch passing raptors. When the small bar is open it also makes a good refreshment stop for thirsty/hungry birders. Most of the Área Recreativa is dotted by mature cork oaks which attract migrants like Spotted and Pied Flycatchers, Redstarts and an assortment of warblers. The openness of the habitat also makes it easier to spot not only feeding passerines but also passing raptors which, given its location, can pass over in droves. The Rio Almodóvar forms the northern and eastern edge of the Área Recreativa and the Arroyo de Cuna it's western limits. By summer the Rio Almodóvar is more a string of disconnected puddles than a river but nonetheless it supports a ribbon of riverine woodland. Look here for Cetti's Warbler and Iberian Chiffchaff. It may also be worth checking here for Scops Owl, a very scarce bird in Cadiz province. I've not found one here but have heard them less than 2 km along the river in the same habitat (on private land). History - ancient, medieaval and modern - is never far away in Spain and Área Recreativa Los Tornos is no exception. Turnos can be translated as "lathes" but also means "work shift" which presumably hints at the site's dark and distinctly untranquil past.
A faded and rusting sign by the entrance tells the story: In the area of Los Tornos, the Disciplinary Battalion of Working Soldiers No. 1 was located and Battalion 46 was also located by the Venta de Ojén (halfway along the Ojen valley and still in use well into the 2000s). The camp was there during the months of August, September and October of 1941. Its Republican prisoners built this section of road during these months. The prisoners were mustered in battalions of about 700 to 1,000 prisoners. Each battalion in turn was divided into four companies of about 200 prisoners and each company, due to the needs of the works they were carrying out, could be separated into detachments of indeterminate number, or joined with other battalions or companies. In the case of the Disciplinary Battalion of Working Soldiers number 46, after ending up in Los Tornos they went to the Tarifa area from November to carry out the toughest jobs in the installation of the El Vigia Coastal Battery The living conditions that these men endured were extreme and were aggravated, in the postwar context, by being the losers of the war. Hard work, lack of hygiene, hunger, cold and diseases such as exanthematic typhus or diarrhoea, ended the lives of many of them. It's a measure of the brutality with which prisoners were treated that even Mussolini's foreign minister, Galeazzo Ciano, was shocked by what he witnessed saying "They are not prisoners of war, they are slaves of war". According to one historian, 90,000 Republican prisoners were sent off to 121 labour battalions and 8,000 to military workshops. Thousands of prisoners were forced to work building dams, highways, etc in a system persisted into the 1960s. Exactly how many died due to the brutality with which they were treated, the poor food they were given and the unsanitary conditions in which they were kept is difficult to establish but certainly runs into many tens of thousands. It is something to ponder when you drive or walk along many of the tracks and minor roads in the area and elsewhere in Spain many of which were constructed using such slave labour. For an embarrassingly long time, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse was something of a 'bogey bird' for me in Cadiz Province although my chagrin at failing to find them was somewhat alleviated by the fact that other birders far more skilled than me also found them tricky to find. I confess that my efforts were somewhat hampered by the fact that, to maximise your chances of seeing them, it’s advisable to get on site either in the first or last few hours of the day. Since the species is only reliably found about an hour’s drive from my base this means getting up early or driving home in the dark, neither of which appealed to me (or even more so to Liz when she was out in Alcala with me). In fact, for years my only record in the province was of a small flock seen from the train as it passed the Marismas de Casablanca just north of Jerez. Hardly a satisfactory view but their portly plover profile was just enough to list them. Oddly, my first ever sighting of Black-bellied Sandgrouse was also from a train many years before. This was instrumental in my exploration of the Osuna area many years later. On that occasion the bird lifted off from near the track and obligingly flew along next to my window at close range before veering off into the distance. If only catching up with its congener in the marshes between La Algaida (Sanlucar de Barrameda) and Trebujena was that easy! My search for Pin-tailed Sandgrouse in the province began in an area of halophytic vegetation beside the Guadalquivir north of the Salinas de Bonanza. I’d read somewhere that this area held sandgrouse and the habitat certainly appeared to be suitable. It also helped that the same source suggested the Spanish Imperial Eagle (which I hadn’t then seen for years) sometimes occurred here. I looked a number of times without finding my target species although I did see the eagle. In retrospect, or rather looking at e-Bird reports, I now realise that despite looking good this area is not a prime spot for the species (although good for both short-toed larks, Spectacled Warbler, Gull-billed Terns, etc.) In 2006 Lynx published the “Where to watch Birds in Doñana” written by two local experts which fortunately included this area (although not part of the Doñana National Park it’s part of the Natural Park that acts as a buffer zone). This excellent book suggested exploring a couple of tracks running north from the A 471 (at GPS 36.7774 -6.2774 (i) and GPS 36.7948, -6.26028 (ii)). These take you several km into the Marismas de Trebujena which is useful as there are few places you can legally or safely stop along the fast A 471 . In particular, they advised looking for sandgrouse in an area that both tracks converged upon (GPS 36.8226, -6.2671). I explored this area a number of times (albeit not always at the optimum time of day) and it certainly looks very good but have never got lucky. [Note that the last time I tried to reach this point from (i) the latter part of the track was in a very poor state so it’s quicker, easier and probably safer to come in from (ii)]. However, I have suggested to several people that they might give the area a try and they managed to find the sandgrouse here (sometimes after multiple attempts). Despite my lack of success these two tracks are always worth exploring as the area attracts, depending on season and rainfall, large numbers of egrets, Glossy Ibis and waders (inc. stints, Ruff, stilts, Golden Plovers), a variety of raptors (inc. Montagu’s Harrier, Short-toed Eagle, etc), short-toed and Calandra Larks. birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/cadiz-birding-blog/may-2022-update-vi-trebujena-area-going-gaga-or-going-gaaa-gaaaA third track along the A 471 next to “Trebujena Motorland” (iii - GPS 36.8365, -6.2065) is also worth a closer inspection as it runs for c5 km and offers good views across suitable habitat. When there’s standing water here then you can see hundreds of egrets and Glossy Ibis – wonderful sight. I’ve visited the area several times and many good birds here … except, of course sandgrouse. Unfortunately, a change in my personal circumstances and then Covid meant for over six years I was unable to give this area the time it deserved. So, when I returned in spring 2022 tracking down the elusive bird was a priority. I confess I was somewhat miffed when a keen Dutch birder to whom I gave details of one of the sites off the A 471 popped along and, on his first attempt, saw several sandgrouse (both in flight and on the ground). Naturally, when I looked there at dawn the following morning, I saw none at all, but my efforts were rewarded by finding a handsome Great-spotted Cuckoo. My catalogue of failure, however, lasted less than an hour when I checked the Adventus track (iv – GPS 36.8862, -6.2202). (Note the finca here is variously called the Cortjo Alventus or Cortijo de Adventus). Stopping along the track to scan the marismas, I saw a small group in the distance and then had a couple of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse fly over my head (see https://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/cadiz-birding-blog/may-2022-update-vi-trebujena-area-going-gaga-or-going-gaaa-gaaa). Somewhat to my surprise, I managed to repeat this feat at the same site the following autumn when I managed to show them to an old friend. A keen world birder (with a 7,000+ list), he’d leapfrogged Spain in pursuit of birds in more exotic destinations further afield, so the birds were lifers (as were another handful of species on that visit). This spring keen to check whether my sudden success was a fluke, I visited the Adventus track half-a-dozen times. To my great satisfaction, I saw Pin-tailed Sandgrouse every time including several small groups (4-5 birds) and probably had a group of c20 birds too. The latter were rapidly scuttling across the horizon as I got out of the car so it’s hard to to be 100% certain. Not only that but on three of those occasions birds flew over the track itself. What made the experience still sweeter was that on those three visits where the birds flew over nearby I was able to show them to four friends for whom they were lifers and a fifth who had never seen them before in Andalucía. My winning strategy has been to get there as early as possible when the birds are more active and the heat haze less of a problem, drive 200-300m along the track, stop and methodically scan the extensive marismas to the west. (Note that after rain this track can become dangerously slippery and driving along it is then inadvisable). In this way I’ve repeatedly found groups of sandgrouse flying fast and low over the marismas with some pitching down towards the Guadalquivir, others disappearing into cover near the small reserve and others continuing well into the distance. The birds, of course, know my strategy which is why the birds that came close to the track were all trying to sneak past behind me! A word of warning is needed though. Somewhat surprisingly, on all my recent visits there have been large numbers of Grey Plovers (in various plumages) doing pretty much the same thing whilst, less surprisingly, I’ve seen Golden Plover nearby in the past. Plovers can superficially resemble sandgrouse in flight but with a decent view there shouldn’t be a problem. However, they do constitute ornithological ‘white noise’ that can distract and make it easier for the target birds to slip through unnoticed! Even when the sandgrouse aren’t being obliging there’s still plenty to see – Little Owl, Glossy Ibis, Calandra Larks, raptors, etc. It’s well worth exploring further along the track for sandgrouse as not only is there plenty of suitable habitat but also after c3 km handsome ceramic sign decorated with an illustration of the bird itself, useful confirmation that you’re in the right place! The ditches here conceal a good variety of herons (I’ve had all three egrets, Grey, Purple, Night and Squacco here) and when flooded with shallow water (a rare circumstance in recent years) it attracts large numbers of Glossy Ibis and waders. Here the track bends to the left to continue all the way to Trebujena (c5 km). This route would certainly be worth exploring further as sandgrouse-friendly habitat continues until it reaches the low hill on which Trebujena stands whereupon good Rufous Bushchat habitat takes over. However, the condition of the track quickly deteriorates from this point on so it’s probably better to do so on foot. If arriving from Trebujena the track (v) starts at GPS 36.8688, -6.1799 next to the far end of Parque La Toya. If you do explore this area then feedback would be very useful as I’ve only done so a couple of times and even then fairly briefly (it's easy to be distracted by the many good ‘known’ sites locally!). It’s well worth exploring further along the track for sandgrouse as far as the Marismas de las Vetas. Not only is there plenty of suitable habitat for sandgrouse but also after c3 km handsome ceramic sign decorated with an illustration of the bird itself, useful confirmation that you’re in the right place! The ditches here conceal a good variety of herons (I’ve had all three egrets, Grey, Purple, Night and Squacco here) and when flooded with shallow water (a rare circumstance in recent years) it attracts large numbers of Glossy Ibis and waders. Here the track bends to the left to continue all the way to Trebujena (c5 km). This route would certainly be worth exploring further as sandgrouse-friendly habitat continues until it reaches the low hill on which Trebujena stands whereupon good Rufous Bushchat habitat takes over. However, the condition of the track quickly deteriorates from this point on so it’s probably better to do so on foot. If arriving from Trebujena the track (v) starts at GPS 36.8688, -6.1799 next to the far end of Parque La Toya. If you do explore this area then feedback would be very useful as I’ve only done so a couple of times and even then fairly briefly (it's easy to be distracted by the many good ‘known’ sites locally!). Returning to where the Adventus track leaves the road down to the Guadalquivir turn left and park near the ruined tourist development (Chozas Marismeñas). From here you have a good view across the dry halophytic vegetation. If the reserve here is open (it rarely seems to be) then a still better spot would be the small tower in its southern corner. Similarly scanning from the Carretera del Práctico could get results. Personally, I’ve never seen sandgrouse from either location but others have and some of the birds I have seen appeared drop down into that area. A final word. I remain somewhat puzzled why I managed to miss this species in this area for so long. I’m willing to accept that it might be sheer incompetence but, that said, I’ve regularly picked them up here before some of the excellent birders who’ve come with me to search for them and back in the day my hearing was up to detecting their calls at much greater range. The fact is that the birds seem to cover an enormous area as I've picked them up as dots on the western horizon, followed them as they rocketed past and then lost them again as they reverted to dots on the eastern horizon. Perhaps, the alarming desiccation of the Coto Doñana has pushed more birds across the river or maybe, more optimistically, that process has increased the species’ population which is now overflowing across the Guadalquivir.
. |
About me ...Hi I'm John Cantelo. I've been birding seriously since the 1960s when I met up with some like minded folks (all of us are still birding!) at Taunton's School in Southampton. I have lived in Kent , where I taught History and Sociology, since the late 1970s. In that time I've served on the committees of both my local RSPB group and the county ornithological society (KOS). I have also worked as a part-time field teacher for the RSPB at Dungeness. Having retired I now spend as much time as possible in Alcala de los Gazules in SW Spain. When I'm not birding I edit books for the Crossbill Guides series. CategoriesArchives
May 2023
|